r33_racer

You should really measure it with a mic and dial bore gauge so you can check it at a couple of different spots to find out where it is tight. The 4 stage pump will shit it in for flow. However, you may just need an upgraded pressure relief spring. I assume you are running the pump around atleast 1/2 engine speed? I think the 26 main bearings are supposedly 1mm wider then rb30 main bearings. Not that it really matters. Also the groove depth in the block, I think from memory it is something like 4-5mm deep. When we used to get it done to our rb30 blocks it was around 5mm deep at the lowest point and it would taper up as it got closer to the parting line each side.

Missed out fellas, no more 4" billets of 1020 lying around at work Will be going in to work tomorrow to keep working on these bad boys. Went in to day to do some more to them and ended up helping my mates fit his process west 2.5 kit to his xr6turbz.

lol! On a more important topic then silly thread, Mike why are you selling the GTR?

He means grooving the main bearing bore so oil flows out the oil feed hole and fills the groove or slot and feeds up through the rest of the holes in the shell. This is also sometimes referred to as annular grooving. You can get 0.001" undersize bearings. So you could eseentially get 0.0025" with those bearings without touching the crankshaft journals. The ACL bearings have an X prefix after the code to indicate they are 0.001" bigger in oil clearance over standard.

Cheers Yeh, Well the main reason I used 75 x 75 is because thats the most scrap I could find around the place. Ive only had to order 1 length of 65x65 as there is none at work and a length of 2" 4140 bar to use for the pins, oh and then bearings. Otherwise the rest so far has just been bits and pieces lol. Got some 4" castors which my old man picked up for cheap. Not the ones I wanted as these are only rated to 160kg each, not the 300kg units I was spec'ing. But it will still be able to hold atleast 1200kgs. Though the rest of the frame will probably hold somewhere between 2000kg comfortably. God knows what you would put on it that could weigh that much though. His HR when stripped will only weigh about 600-700kgs. The whole car supposedly only weighs 1200kgs. My engine didnt turn up today. So time to do some more on this project!

Yeh. Ive wanted one for a long time. Specifically when we first built the race car, however it was deemed not needed back then. Now my old man bought this old HR premier he wants to build up, we "NEED" them to re run the chassis rails and stiffen the whole car frame up. Mainly because we are putting an RB30 in it! lol. Hopefully I can get him to get a 3.4L stroker for it. Will make it interesting. Back to the frame. Its all 75mm x 75mm x 5mm wall. So plenty strong enough. The main bush that Ive machined up will actually take two bearing. One at the front and one at the back of the bush, the ID of the bearing is 50mm. We will be running a 50mm pin that will have all the attachments off it. It will adjust in height and the attaching arms will adjust in width. So it will be universal to some degree. Just so long as the car body will fit between the base and the pivot point. Which I think at the moment is about 950mm. Should do the job hopefully. This is the bush sitting in the shallow scallop. You can see the recess seat for the bearing to be pressed into. Should make it rotate quite smoothly and easily and wont have to worry about pumping it full of grease and having it ooze out everywhere attracting dirt and grit. The beauty of sealed bearings.

Thats good mate! Lol, sounds like you need more free time to do personal stuff! Work is always a pain in the arse!

Ive just started making a rotisserie for my old mans HR build he is doing. I'll do my best to document the build in case anyone wants to make one. Ill try to do up a tech drawing as well of the whole unit with a material list. This is where I am at presently. One side. And the other side. Just the basic frame tacked up. Ive started turning up the inner and outer bushes for the rotating part of the frame. They will be welded into a scalloped out section on the top post. Hopefully get more done later today.

They werent custom or anything. Just off the shelf mufflers from summit. Yeh, im worried they will be quite loud being straight through I'll do my best to outline what I do when I check it all and put it all together. Though I'm no engine builder so no doubt it wont be as detailed or accurate as one from someone in the game.

So long as you purge the tube while welding it and have a trailing gas setup you should be fine. Wont be perfect, but you will get better as you go.

lol. tell me about it. Im still waiting on getting my engine back from machining. Was supposed to be last friday. Now it should be middle of this week. There will be photos when I get it all back and start assembling. How was your trip?

Where exactly did you source the titanium tube from mate?

Thats crazy how big of a step is there on the exhaust housing. Its always good when you pick up on little things that make a big difference to power! Free power ftw!

Any aftermarket oil pump will do the trick. Tomei, Jun, HKS, Nitto or any other brand name pump. They all flow a shitload more then standard and will do the job fine. You will just need to get a collar. You can get the tomei valve springs if they make them to suit the neo head. Tomei cams are fine. IVe only ever used the type a poncams. But cant see why the type b wont work. The Supertech valve train gear is great too. Especially since the dollar is so good atm. Not sure if they have stuff to suit the neo head though. I think thats the limiting factor with the neo head is lack of aftermarket parts in comparison to the rb25det head and 26 head. What sort of specs are you after exactly on the H beam rods? Virtually any aftermarket rod will suit, so long as its for an RB30, Spool, eagle, argo, nitto whatever. The power you are going for is not that big that it warrants anything special. Piston choice is much the same. CP's will be fine, JE's or Ross or whatever your choice. If you are using the rb25 gearbox, then use all your rb25 clutch and flywheel gear.

lol yeh the blowby would have been carrying oil up that line to head. Maybe just block off the Tee joint and leave the line going from sump to catch can. Get rid of that half of the back of the head drain/vent thats going to that Tee joint on the inlet side.

Try a scotchbrite pad and rub it off. If its not too bad it will come off without really affecting anything. RB25 headstuds.

Is the titanium bare tube or already in fabricated exhaust form to suit your car?

wow.

Man that is alot of runout! Good choice on getting it straightened.

When you tested the crank in the block with the front and back bearings were you checking crank runout on the centre main?

hmmm it shouldnt really be breathing heavy at all after its all bed in and running right. Our leak down is always around the 2-3% mark across the board and my road car was about 6-7% before I started my new build. Unless its something silly like an out of round bore or too tight in piston to bore and its grabbing slightly. You shouldnt have so much blow by and oil spewing, especially with all the mods you've done.

How new is the engine build? 15% leak down seems alot if its pretty new. What pistons and piston to bore clearance if you know? Does the engine breathe heavy when its warm as in does blowby vapour come out the breather filter normally?

Interesting. All that done and it still spews oil out. What size is the inlet side of sump to your catch can from the tee piece? The only other thing I can think of that might be causing the issue is the breather can filter size. It looks way too small. It also appears to be the only one on the can, there isnt a second one hiding somewhere? What sort of leak down were you getting too?

Where does the back of head line goto? You need a breather line from the inlet side of sump to your catch can.

Possibly been covered before, but I just weighed a bare rb30 block with only welsh plugs and dowels in it and it came to 58kgs bang on. This block had an 87mm bore and had been decked atleast twice. So a std bore block would probably weigh a fraction more. Maybe 59-60kgs at a guess. You could just round it up to 60 kgs for interests sake in case anyone has been wondering.