r33_racer

My cousins bf ran his r33 with around 420rwhp on a stock internal rb25 for around a 1.5 yrs thrashing it at drift days before it blew. That was pretty good considering it did alot of street racing and skids also.

Who cares what the power really is. The dyno is there for tuning and upgrade comparisons, so long as you are using the same dyno everytime then you can see what changes net the best results. Most dynos in this country are probably dyno dynamics (though I could be wrong, not really sure) and they wouldnt be out by too much more then say 5-10% from eachother. Which in the grand scheme of things isnt really that much. I can comment on the methanol helping make power safely and easily. It is amazing stuff, you can be around 15% too rich and it doesnt affect power production, it just runs alot cooler, if you run it too lean, it wont knock, it just usually melts pistons pretty quick. We pumped out 590rwhp on the rb30det w/gt35r last week. Boost bled from 23psi down to 19psi (running on gate pressure only, no controller). When we setup the solenoid and get it to flatline boost to redline I suspect the power will grow a little over the 600rwhp mark. Which is going out of the realm of regular gt35r territory by a long shot. I dont know why alot of other people dont run it, or atleast run it in a mix w/ 98pulp. I just cant express enough how magical it is. The only negative is you need a smaller less efficient radiator and oil cooler. Not very often you go backwards when running a turbo car in those two areas lol.

Did you check the tunnel size when torqued down with the new ARP main studs? I didnt see you mention any main tunnel honing in the machining operations or the use of a torque plate for that matter.

1psi isnt bad at all. Our race car engine drops about 4psi after 4800. Its all easily fixed by having a good electronic boost controller that is configured to help maintain the desired boost pressure which can be a little fiddly to setup properly at times. So long as the mechanical side is spec'd and operating correctly then there is no reason it shouldnt be maintaining target pressure.

Well the end of the attachments will have some plates welded to them so we can attach to the firewall and rear bar support area on the HR. I havent looked at a skyline to see where it would work, but something off or around the chassis rails would probably work well enough. Obviously needs to be a structurally sound point to bolt to and can support its weight without crumbling when suspended in mid air.

Good work. There is always a point in turning a car upside down! The bearings in the main bush of this thing make it spin sooooo freely. It is quite silly and makes you laugh. I just want to turn it into a hammock now!

Been working on it again for the last few morning. They are nearly done finally. Just a few gussets to weld on and then roll up some big wheel shaped handles to turn the pin and she is done!

If they used a better grade of stainless it would be alright. But they probably use something like 304s.s which wouldnt be the best choice. If they used stainless buttweld fittings it would work great. Have the benefit of heat retention in the runner and no rusting or need for painting/coating and if you wanted it could be polished to look pretty.

Steam pipe is close enough, the actual bits used are called buttweld fittings.

Good to hear mate. So ready for a tune??

Ok I just measured up a spare one and its dimensionally the same as those ones. Seems like the vg ones are identical. Well as far as I can tell from the measurements supplied.

nice mate! good to see its on the road and driving

I wont get to check them until tomorrow afternoon. But going from the manual, the OD seems pretty close, its about 0.0007" smaller then a std factory rb25de/det lifter. So you would have abit more clearance between lifter body and lifter bore. There was no mention of height in the manual. But I will mic up the ones at my old mans tomorrow and confirm.

I think the rough guide is a 4" exhaust is good for about 1000bhp. Which is probably close to about 600rwkws.

I would love to see that. Stick it to the whinging environment loving hippies.

You dont have to have a drain back. If needed, It can tee into the turbo oil return if you want, as others have mentioned. The main issue is excessive blowby, you need to vent this from the crankcase.

A little backyardish, but you can shim the spring up so long as it doesnt bind at full lift. Easily checked by hooking up an air pressure reg to the bottom port and feed air pressure into it until it cracks off the seat. That works pretty well for finding out roughly what psi the spring is good for, especially when you have no idea.

If you have the head drain returning to your drivers side sump wing, its acting like a crankcase vent, not a drain. As said above it would be better to run that line straight to your breather can, rather then head. Refer to ms paint diagram for help

I will try that out. Cheers! I always automatically write off repco or local parts stores due to them usually not having any close for import cars. Especially the odd bits and pieces. I did find a new fan only from rhdjapan for about $111 plus postage. Not too bad since thats the only bit I need.

Just use a dial indicator to find exact tdc with number 1 if you have one. Or use the marking on the timing gear to line up with the notch in the oil pump housing. Then use the cam gear dots to line up with the markings on the timing cover backing plate. Usually tdc is is when the key slot for the woodruff key is facing up.

Has anyone found out about any aftermarket replacement fans, viscous/ clutch fan, not thermo. My factory one is riddled with cracks and I can only assume a new genuine replacement one would cost a fortune. Hopefully someone has???

The less back pressure the better. You could always just gut your standard cat if you dont want to goto a high flow unit. But its a risk if you get caught. A highflow unit shouldnt be illegal, but it is NSW so you really need to check your local tpt laws.

This will be sweet if they come back dimensionally the same. Hope they get back to you!

well its the vg lifters which are in question as they are the new ones for sale. We just need a vg lifter measured up.

That makes sense with the factory valves. Both our valves are s/s. I guess that explains the different lash settings.