r33_racer

lol you are not wrong!

Yeh thats going to be the tricky bit, as im going to take a stab at where to put it, rather then testing the exhaust system first. However if there is sufficient back pressure then im sure ill have power making problems as well as that issue, but as the easy fix I can just put a filter on the -12 on the lid as a temporary fix until its sorted properly. lol or just go and buy a stupid vacuum pump and get 20+ inHg of vacuum through the motor! But that would be too easy.

I suppose having the means makes it easier doesnt it. Depends on oil, but probably a couple hundred degrees. I think the flash point is the proper term. I guess that is possible, if the exhaust was so hot it would just vaporise the oil vapour. But how is that any different to oil bypassing rings, turbo bypassing oil and burning, or dodgy valve stem seals letting oil into the chamber? Essentially the samething is happening except alot worse. I think if its setup right there shouldnt really be much oil burning in the exhaust, im hoping it will mainly be air! Lol but my can may not be upto scratch and I might find a shit load of blue smoke billowing out the exhaust. That breather can is my catch can and seperator. The way im hoping it works is the oil will settle at the bottom and the air will rise to the top and get sucked out the opening at the top of the middle tube, go back down and out the tee'd in bit at the bottom and go out to the exhaust via the one way valve. So if it works properly then hopefully the air wont be carrying as much oil as usual. That is the plan anyway. I will be putting a drain bung on the bottom and a capped off dash 12 weldon on the roof incase it needs a filter or something if there is a problem.

lol...what cat? But yes, if you were running a cat, then you would put it after that point. You are not wrong Chris. It is cool, though Ive never known any different. Everyone in our family has been of the do it yourself mindset. But the same old guy who told me about the exhaust evac setup also said if you have an inquiring mind you can pretty well do anything. This guy was a chippie by trade, but spent 30+ years of his life as a race car builder!

Good work on fixing it. I may have to check mine out.....lol when its actually running!

Thanks mate! I am itching pretty hard to finish this thing so I can drive it. I got about half way through the breather can tonight. Its basically going to be a mini dry sump tank, with 4 lines going in, one from each rocker cover and two from the crankcase, and then one line (from the pipe tee'd off the middle one at the bottom) down to a one way valve and into the exhaust just after the 4"-3" reducer. I'll have a pipe cut with a 45 deg end sticking into the exhaust at 45 degrees and flush with the centre line so I can take advantage of the fastest flowing gas(centre of the tube - Poiseulle flow) moving past it, generating the maximum amount of vacuum through the attached line. I believe Bernoulli's principle has something to do with how this setup works. Hopefully it works well. This setup has been around for quite a long time apparently, but ive never seen anyone take advantage of it, atleast not around these forums. The old fellas who schooled me about it said he was doing it to race cars back in the 70's and 80's, I guess dry sump setups and vacuum pumps took over afterwards.

Mate, I think the std GTR cooler is fine for that power level. No need to waste money on something that isnt required. Im fairly certain others have achieved more power then that too.

Thats mad, fwd cars are quite novel to drive. I have to admit your super turbz looks pretty damn cool!

I missed this. The car looks nuts Dunc. Bet its heaps of fun to drive!

Lol Ive had the same problem with mine. I pulled the dash apart one day and had a play and it started working for a couple of days, but it died again. Seems r33's and speedos just dont work well together!

Cheers Chris. That pipe actually has a 3mm wall lol. So its not so bad. The donut sections are more like 1.2mm I think. But I just focus the arc below the joining points and once the heat gets into the thicker parent metal I just move the arc towards the join when feeding the filler and it just melts up onto the pipe nicely. The donut onto the compressor cover was more difficult. That cast just doesnt like melting nicely.

Took the better part of the day but I got the turbz outlet to charger inlet done! Thank god that part is over, it was quite daunting thinking I wasnt going to be able to fit it together. Tomorrow will be the 4" turbo intake and hopefully start the catch can (lol which I forgot about) and then I think thats the twincharge fab work done! Still left with engine stuff to do, hooking up the power steering and water/methanol injection kit!

It always pays to double check....everything.

The good thing with the grubscrew is its easily changed. Screw it out and drill it bigger or just make another with whatever sized hole you need. Ive found the 1.2mm ally tips, which have a 1.4mm hole have worked well (close enough to 1.5mm). Just turn them down in the lathe and part it off.

Dude you are on the ball! Yeh 2.5" it is! Well since im only running low boost out of it, it needs to pass alot of gas. I need the wastegate to control boost perfectly and without any silly issues from undersize piping or improper placement.

Im pretty sure It gets stripped away by the 4 bolts holding the camgear on. If you bolt up the cas with no timing case it doesnt have enough clearance. I think from memory its around the 3-3.5mm mark it needs to be spaced out.

Bang on there! Generally the lower you can keep your revs the longer everything will last.

Woot! Got the wastegate outlet welded up and onto the dump. Time to move onto the next PITA part. Outlet to intake doo dah! Hooray

Great news!

Block one feed and put a 1.5mm in the other. Install a fitting on the drivers side wing, but run that line to your catch can, not the head, -12 in size will be good.

At a guess, considering noels hate for screamers, I would say its safe to assume it is.

Yeh we used to groove the block and fit gtr mains. However I was not aware they were a fraction wider then std rb30 mains.

So the new dump pipe will be finished today? You gonna kick his arse for the stupid downgrade mate?

Yeh it is quite tight. Gonna have to pull some magical fab or machine work out of my arse to get it together nicely. I was hoping to get the wastegate part all welded tonight, but we spent all night trying to find a stupid miss with the race car. It seems like an injector or maybe two are not playing the game! In regards to the 4" dump pipe, pretty much as TiTAN said. Im attempting to cheat, but utilising 4" to dissipate enough heat so by the time exhaust gas reaches the 3" its not choke up.

I have one but its on an angle. Hopefully will give you an idea though. I think from memory it was 75mm or thereabouts.