damuscat

I have the rear window off an R33 GTS-T. I'm pretty sure they'd be the same but check first. Other notes... it does have the hole for the rear wiper and the demister doesn't work. Other than that it's in very good condition, tinted in 20% too. PM me if you're interested.

Standard cat-back exhaust SOLD. Standard dump pipe still available.

Stainless dump SOLD

All items below are off an R33 GTS-T Series II Standard Turbo Back Exhaust (includes dump, but no cat) $110 All in good condition with the exception of some scratches on the heat shielding due to a nasty driveway. Standard Springs (front and rear) $100 All in good condition Standard Sway bars (front and rear) $100 Both in good condition, one of them still has the links included. 3" Stainless Steel dump pipe $150 Very good condition (used for about a year). Will fit an R33 GTS-T series II, and probably also a series I. All items are located in Sydney, pick up only please. Contact: PM or 0401 146 094

Hi mate. I have the standard exhaust system off a Series II R33 if you're interested (turbo back). I believe the fitting is the same as a series one but if you want to check, someone on this forum must know for sure. It's in reasonable condition considering it's the standard item. I might even have a cat you can use with it. PM me if you're keen.

I've been waiting for one of these for ages! There's always been some reason why I couldn't make it but this time I finally can. Hopefully all the spots aren't taken already. Please put me down as a definite. Morning session is preferred but will happily accept the afternoon session otherwise. I've just sent through an email too. Thanks!

x 2 They look great!

Hi Andrew.... I know you're probably busy. I'm just waiting on your bank details so I can transfer the money over. You should have a PM from me in your inbox. Thanks!

Hey Andrew. Plates are DAM 168 (black with gold lettering).

Hi Andrew.... I'm interested in any pics you may have of my car. It was the red R33 GTS-T (Series 2) with the R33 GTR wheels. How much is the CD?

I would have said yes had I been able to pick up my car last night rather than tonight ... looks like I'll be getting there quite late.

Paid and PM sent

Well I've just been out conducting a little experiment. I jacked the car up slightly in the front centre so that from the middle of the wheels to the top of the arch at the front it sat at 350mm (a 20mm increase from the height it was). Raising the front slightly seemed to make the back squat just a little as on measuring the rear it was 340mm (down from 345-350). When I measured the rake with this setup it was about 5mm (nose down). Thanks for your suggestion Adam (I only just realised what you meant). I'll check that out tomorrow and see if there is a 20mm difference.

Hi Gary. I've read your recommendations before but there must be something weird with my car. I took some measurements the other night and this is what I got. Front Left: 330 Front Right: 330 Rear Left: 350 Rear Right: 345 Rake: ~20mm nose down. ...so taking your recommendation to raise the front to 350mm (up 20mm) and lower the back to 340mm (down 10mm) it sounds like my rake would be 10mm with the nose up. My measurements may be a little out but I even turned the car around and re-measured just in case the surface I was on was a little uneven and throwing things out. I should also mention that I have the sub-frame bushes in the rear. They're currently set to the "middle" setting (can't remember what the proper name for it was). Edit: I just realised that a 10mm adjustment (measured from the wheel centre to the arch) won't necessarily equate to a 10mm difference when measured at the sill next to the relevant wheel. So my final rake calculation of 10mm nose up is probably out.

Yep, the alignment is going to get a look hopefully this weekend. I really hope that fixes it because other than that everything looks okay. I also know someone that's run the GTR wheels without issues on a GTS-T. The only difference was that theirs wasn't lowered. I don't exactly have my car lowered alot... rears are 350mm, front about 325-330mm (wheel centre to top of arch measurements). I'm having the front raised to at least 340mm. If I measure from the floor to the bottom sill the back end is about 20mm higher than the front so after I raise the front it should make the drop about 10mm (which is supposed to me more ideal from what I've been reading).

Hi guys, I recently purchased a set of R33 GTR wheels for track use on my R33 GTST. Rears are perfect. Fronts.. no so perfect. The problem only occurs with the front passenger side wheel. At full lock to the left the inside edge of the wheel touches the suspension arm that runs parallel to the shock absorber. At full lock to the right, the front driver's side wheel doesn't have the same issue but it does come very close. I've checked everything as best as I can and there are no obvious bent suspension components or anything like that. However, by sight I can see that the front passenger side has more negative camber than the drivers side. I confirmed this by checking out my last wheel alignment report. Front Left: -2 deg 24' Front Right: -1 deg 42' I think reducing the amount of negative camber on the left may help but wanted to get opinions. SydneyKid's recommendations on camber for road use are -1 deg (as I found in the group buy kit recommendations). I'm also getting the front raised. Currently the wheel centre to arch measurement is about 330mm so I plan to raise it by 10mm. That will help solve the typical scrubbing issue but after speaking to a suspension shop on the phone today it seems unlikely that it will stop the rim from hitting the suspension arm. Spacers have been suggested but I really don't want to go down that path. Someone please help.. I want to hold onto these wheels!

Hi Anna. I'll grab a room for Friday night if there's any left. Cheers.

In. Payment made and email sent. Hopefully the car holds out the full day this time!

Cheers Roy. Another question comes to mind now. Is there any real benefit in using a 343mm rotor as opposed to a 324mm rotor with the standard calliper? I want to understand why it's better (if so). Is it purely because the larger the rotor the longer it takes to get heat into it?

Hi everyone, I've been doing some research on brake upgrades and I'm almost set on what I want. The only question I have right now is will 343mm rotors fit (with standard R33 GTS-T calipers) under the standard R33 GTR wheels (17"x9) If not I guess I'll just settle for the 324mm rotor upgrade Thanks!

Lol.. this car seems to be getting around a lot without plates! I saw it on Hampden Rd Atarmon at around just after 5pm today.

I can't comment on the front offset but for me, the scrubbing at the front is negligible. As for tyres, start ringing around. They vary a lot in price depending on brand/type. It really depends on how fussy you are. The more expensive ones can easily cost you around $1500 for a set but you can get a lot cheaper than that. Search the wheel/tyre threads. I know there's something in there were people compared brands and costs. That's what I used!

No they won't. I bought these.... Nismo LMGT4's Front: 18x8.5 (+30) Rear: 18x9.5 (+38) In terms of tyres I put 235's on the front and 255's on the back. I've lowered my car a little and I had minor scrubbing on the front and back. Fixed the back with very little guard lipping and fixed the front 90% by raising just a tad (still lower than stock). The fronts will only scrub on or right near full lock when going across bumpy roads or up really awkward driveways. I left them on for a track day once (at Wakefield) and had no issues whatsoever. Top choice

Sounds like you have the same problem as me. Does it hunt for idle all the time? Mine seems to be random. Sometimes it won't do it at all and other times it'll be happening at every set of lights.

Hi Sam. Does it need to be new? I picked up a second hand one from Just Jap for no more than $30 I think. I haven't yet hooked it up but I too got it to replace the huge thing they put in during compliance. Can you elaborate on the issue your current one might be causing? The guy who tuned my car after an upgrade suggested a standard canister to solve the occasional idle hunt problem I have.