Ramius83

Ok, so we threw the factory shims/spacers in with the whole stack. with everything put together, we are getting about 110 ft/lbs break-away. Obviously this will change/decrease with some amount of driving. But nonetheless, now we are getting some break-away. Does this sound OK?

Yeah, that is what we were thinking too. It isn't hard to take it all apart again, just wanted to make sure that before we do, we somewhat have more of an idea lol.

I need some help with re-building the R32 GTR rear diff with the NISMO 3843S-RS521 disk kit. Of course, all of the instructions are in Japanese. Contacted NISMO here in the States and they are of no help. I never actually tested the break-away torque of the old setup, I just bought this diff used so I thought, hey, why not. Tore apart the diff and the basket components and installed the disks how it appeared in the diagram. Put everything back together, except no fluid, rigged up a break-away tester, and found it to be absolutely zero ft/lbs break-away. So, now I am thinking about how we assembled the disks and the one thing that I may have omitted that I shouldn't have. In the OEM form, each clutch disk stack is comprised of 6 disks and one large shim that is on the outside of the stack. We removed all 6 disks and the one large shim that is pictured below, installed the new small shim and all 6 new disks. Did the same for the other side, and put it all back together. Obviously, now there is no break-away torque. Does this large shim need to go back in the casing on both sides? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks......

As always Risking, thanks for your input on this. Now, I do know that you usually mount the oil tank in the boot. My tank is being mounted on the left hand drive passenger side fender well area in front of the wheel. Because of it being close to the pump, will a -12AN return from the pump to the tank suffice? Or regardless, do you recommend a -16AN? And with this not being a heavy road course car, will -10AN scavenges not suffice?

Ok guys. I am coming down to the nitty-gritty part of this build. I am building an 800AWHP RB26/30 S14, yep, already converted to AWD.....no bashing please. I am running the Ross Dampener and Drive gear, driving an Aviad 4 stage oil pump using the Ross Pump bracket to the existing A/C compressor bracket holes in block. Three scavenges have been modified to the GTR oil pan. Running a 19 tooth sprocket on the crank mandrel and a 38 tooth pump sprocket. Now, it is coming down to the hose sizes.......as this subject is different across the board. This is my current thought process for this part: Tank to pump (feed/suction to pump) = -12AN Pump to Greddy Relocation block with oil cooler, block to engine (pressure side) = all -10AN Scavenges from oil pan to pump = -10AN Return from pump to tank = -12AN Does this sound about right? Anything sound too small? Car will be a fun weekend car, some dragging at the strip, maybe a few road course events in the future. What do you guys think? Also, on a side note. I will be capping off the valve covers, running about 10in/Hg in the crank case, and running a vent tank on the oil tank, sound about right?

Delete, double post, sorry......

Just need the speedo sensor from an R33 GTR that is located in the transfer case. Thanks.......

I am coming down to the nit and gritty part of my build, and saving the power steering belt issue for last. I have run a dry sump oil system on my RB26/30 build and I cannot risk having this issue, so I am going to correct/fix the issue first, before it even becomes a problem. (save the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" comments please). I don't want to have a catastrophic engine failure due to an f**king power steering belt. I am running my 2 year old RB26 Ross Dampener on my RB26/30 build, don't see a problem using it. I am either looking into the Ross Idler Kit, or this other kit they have. http://blog.rossperformanceparts.com/category/engine-protection-kits/nissan-rb26/ Anyone running a dry sump have experience with this type of set-up? Anyone see any issues running this kit? Any input would be greatly appreciated..... If not, then just to avoid the whole issue, I am gonna run a Volvo Electric Power steering pump.......

Possibility you still have the speedo sensor?

Any word on that speed sensor yet?

What would be the price of these shipped to me in the USA? Roswell, Georgia, 30076, United States.....Thanks.

Any way I could grab the speed sensor from the transfer case from you?

Which DEFI gauge do you have? Racer series, BF, CR, Advance????

Eh, get and RB30 block and find an RB25 NEO head. Problem solved..........

If everyone has been filling to the bottom of the lower welsh plugs, then I don't even have to touch the exhaust side of the engine. There is literally cast block right up to the bottom of the exhaust side engine lower welsh plugs. At this point, it almost makes no sense to even do it lol, seriously. I doubt that even filling only the intake side with about an inch of HardBlok will do me any good at this point. And everyone means the lower welsh plugs, right??? Not the upper 22mm welsh plugs?

Hey guys, got a quick question for you. I picked up a Series 1 RB30 block and I have cone down to the point where I am about to fill the block to the bottom of the lower welsh plugs. When I removed the 30mmlower welsh plugs on the intake side of the engine, there is maybe an inch or less of empty space below the plug bottom. And on the exhaust side, there is cast right up to the bottom of the plug. I was under the assumption that there was quite a bit of dead space there that needed filled. Also, did any of you bolt the head or a torque plate to the block when the HardBlok was hardening? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance......

Ok guys, will do. I was thinking this turbo wouldn't be able to push that amount of power to be honest. I mean, I love it, but didn't think it was possible, or at least not unless I pushed 35+ psi to it. Thanks all for your help. I'll report back in a few months when she is running and what I got it to......

Man, this has turned into a somewhat informative thread lol. I was running a Borg Warner S300sx 88/75 Turbo on my previous RB26 build, but never turned her up over 550WHP. I am unsure of the rear housing number, but I guess if I currently have a .91 or 1.00 A/R Exhaust housing, I could just upgrade to the larger A/R Exhaust Housing. So this turbo is capable of over 800AWHP on an RB30? If so, that is freaking fantastic and would save me a bit of money at the moment. Am I right in my thinking here?

I have searched countless forums and have found many mixed results. Searching for the fastest spooling 800hp turbo for use on an RB26/30 use street/drag car. Not looking to go to 35+ psi to obtain it, but I am willing and up to considering any of your recommendations. Previous searching shows the trusty old TO4Z should do it, but that is OLD technology. Maybe something along the PT turbos or the Borg Warners. Engine specs.....RB30 block, usual supporting mods. RB26 head, mildly ported and cleaned up, 272 cams, 10.8 lift, 1mm over valves. Engine has been dry dumped. Full fuel system and cell.

Reason being??????

I am in the middle of buying/building my new RB26/RB30 swap in my S14 here in the States. I have been researching the conrod issue and I have a few questions for everyone here. I feel that I have beat myself up researching this and I just want all of your opinions since real world experiences are more important to me than the different companies marketing techniques. I am looking for around 800 AWHP, give or take a few HP. I have narrowed it down to a few decent choices, knowingly staying away from the Chinese copies such as Manley, Spool (which appear to be ok) etc. So I have found the following, in no absolute order. 1) Pauter X-Beam Rods 2) NITTO I-Beam Rods 3) Argo I-Beam Rods I know that all of these choices have the +'s and -'s, but I need your help with this. The Pauters come available (for an extra $45.00 a rod) with wrist pin oiling internally through the rod. The NITTOs supposedly have a jet near the main that squirts oil to the bottom of the piston, mimicing a block oil squirter. And the Argos speak for themselves with the RIPS boys. So with cost set aside (since the rods are an important part of a longer stroke engine with higher RPM ranges) what rods do you recommend? No TItanium recommendations please, I don't have $6000+ for only rods. Thanks guys.

Good Day everyone. I am in the process of assembling my RB26 engine finally. I will be running a dry sump setup, using the Ross Performance Products oil pump mount, Aviaid 4 stage oil pump, 3 gallon tank, two oil pan drains, rear head drain, so on and so on. I need to know what I need to do to prepare the block for this setup? I know that I will need to remove the internal drive gearing from the old N1 pump, but what else needs to be done to the engine itself if anything at all? Do the oil feed and pressure lines to/from the old oil pump need to be blocked or welded off? Any other info I can get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much......

I am in need of a set of R32 GTR Front Coilovers. Preferably something height adjustable. PM me or post here with what you have, maybe some pics, and price. Need to be willing to ship, as it is shipping to the US. I will cover all shipping costs, so no worry, you won't have to do a thing other than drop it off at the post office/Fedex/UPS.

Did you ever get rid of the shocks? If not, I am interested......

Hey guys. Short story here is I need to know how exactly the center diff works in the transfer case on a GTR Skyline. I know about the ATESSA crap, but I need to know mechanically how it works. Helping a buddy swap an R33 AWD GTR set-up into another chassis. We have no ATESSA stuff, but was wondering how "hydraulicly" the system works. Other than a difference of fluid pressure into the center diff to engage/disengage the clutch packs, are there any other electronic devices on the diff itself that are needed? We were thinking about a fluid based pressure regulator to control the pressure into the center diff front from the rear HICAS port on the power steering pump (which we have from an R32) which is driver controlled in the cock-pit.Thanks all....Please don't flame me as I am just the messenger.