xr8eater

update shes up and running after the plug change but now has a stamer under high acceleration and i know the cure is to gap down the plugs but irridums say not to gap them down hence my delema

i cleaned the air flow meter and tested it the car started but with the same result black smoke and spluttering i also cleaned the (acc) aac valve what ever it's called looked fairly clean i removed the plugs and looked at them all of them had blak soot on them. do you guys think my afm is stuffed or somthing else irridums go in tonite

chace and abuse the person at gixxer.com all you want just leave the person jason rouse alone he definatly is not the one you want. if you knew what i know about the only jason rouse that lives in perth and works in the ADF you wont chace this up TRUST ME !!!!!!!

jason rouse is a bougous name trust me!!!!!! and dont send him emails saying he is a di** head un less you want to get in a lot of trouble. if you want to get this guy atack his user name or web address. thanks mike

thanks guys ill give it a clean and see what it ill do i took a look at it the other dayand noticed the dirt but thought if the wire isnt broken it should still go

i jumped into my car this morning turned the key and to my shock the car was shakeing and spluttering all over the place, i gave it a rev to stop it from stalling because on idle it just dies i checked all conections and hoses there ok changeing sparkplugs tonite. any other ideas the black smoke is makeing me sick realy.

yes to make a carbon bonnet is the same as a fibreglass one strength however has nothing to do with vacum forming just compisits and resin combination hope that helps

i recall one guy on the forum haveing to sell his as some drunk sat on the bonnet and cracked it

i use to make carbon fibre boats and masts. The resistance of carbon fibre can be applyed in many ways due to omnidirectional strands or directional weave the weave method is used for show on car bonnets and shoud be backed up by omnidirectional strands of carbon fibre no bonnet i have seen so far has this system applyed to it. yes it could bounce a pedestrian but if it's not backed up properly it would shatter and the last thing a pedistrian needs is to be picking a zillion shards out of them selfs. all that said i still think carbon is the go and i could not for see a driver being injured from one.

just ignore the bubling noise he he

thats an awsome offer garry i will be in contact with you soon

I am looking at buying a stagea soon can you guys tell me what to look out for and what i should have as preferences for parts to be fitted on the car when i purchase it from japan eg (mag wheels) is on the list.

apparently verry common sav man my one has the same problem

epoxy is better than polyester it is stronger than normal resin and will last longer west system also has a warrenty for quallity asurance but is the most expencive fgi is the second most expencive but still verry good quallity i would recomend epoxy for first timers because it is easy to mix (wont explode or catch alight) the last thing you need is polyester resin that was incorectly mixed and ither stays tacky and soft or is so hot a mix it burns your work. if you use epoxy or polyester mix it in small batches in a large container (ice cream size) let it set and recoat if nessary remember if you use a lot you can allways sand it back just do your self a favour dont go cheap it will be nasty like the crap they sell at hardware stores go to a ships chandlery look it up in the yellow pages you will be supprised how many supplyers there are.

$20!!!!! for a sheet of fibreglass try $7-15 a square meter and you are near caringbah tang0 you know where whitworths is near the pizza hut they carry a huge range of resins and epoxys of good quallity none of that cheap crap they sell in the hardware

thanks mate

i cant accelerate any slower than i am other wise i will be stopped power mode kicks in to early and i want to stop it from doing it

i have been driveing around and haveing strange thing happen to my auto gear changes. When i take off the power light comes on and it holds second gear to redline for at least five seconds i have to take my foot off the accellerator all togeather to swich off the power button so it will change gears all gear changes are solid and i still can spinn the wheels no problems so it isnt the belt slipping does any one have any idea what this could be

I need the nissan fast part number for a r32 gts-t 1992 auto, rear left hand shock. I called nissan but they could not help me at all.

$28,000 plus compliance sounds about right for a high ks skyline from a good importer

one sat for you that was posted in the sydney morning hearld 99% of prisoners in jail had eaten bread died so bread got taken off the menu I DONT THINK SO !!!! ALL THIS TALK ABOUT STATS IS CRAP THE MEDIA SHOUD BE ASHAMED

at the chandlery where they sell boat stuff ask for eppiglue not eppifill ps it's not cheap but it's the best max $25

eppiglue is the best brand for this it's purchased at most ships chandlers (eg whitworths)

under the black cover screwed down by allen keys in the middle of your engine it says nissan 2500 on it they are under there you can then un screw them individualy or the whole lot deprnding on what bolts you un screw i will get some pics later if you are still haveing trobule you will need to take some small hoses off and the intake pipe first

so it's the same as a front wheel bearing