predator

Hey matt.. um its the one behind smith street in Southport.. adrenaline i think it was.. they didn't do my actual compliance, but they were friendly about letting the engineer they use tick off my work.. and they looked quite legit, and had decent service.

well i know that lots of people *do* spend $30k+ on a 2nd hand car... but in general a lot of people seem to be going for the security of a brand new car (e.g. many of my friends have spent low $30k on brand new cars instead of an older car, as they don't care its not fast, just that its new and with a factory warranty) its just that these days, new cars are selling more and more (last year was biggest ever new car sales), and the 2nd hand market is slower than it was. R34 are a good deal for what you get, but high 20's is a different bracket. Don't forget most unsecured personal loans top out at $20k.. Anything more than that involves a car loan and the condition for most of these is that the car must be newer than 5 years old. I guess a GT-T qualifies for that. 15 year car vs one less than 5 years old, you'd definitely hope less issues

nobody wants to spend $30k on a 2nd hand car anymore, thats the reason why they aren't popular.

I think it looks quite good.. although mainly cosmetic. Apparently most of the drivetrain and things remains fairly similar though. I wonder if this will be this will be the last of the WRX we see in its current guise? there is talk that they will be shifting to a more compact format, much like Mitsu is talking about with the next EVO.

its quite simple, nissans goal for the GTR was coming up with a homolgated street vehicle that could be successfully raced with minor modifications. Which they did successfully for many years. I guess after the first few were produced, they realised there was a big demand for them for a street car, and continued to produce many more than would be required to just meet the criteria for the race cars. The GTS-T was really just designed as a daily passenger vehicle, but they added a few performance bits to sit it in the middle for those that didn't need the "all out" of the GTR.. and probably couldn't afford one. I think most would be saying that it is the parts on a GTR, and more complex system that is more expensive to fix if something goes wrong.. or just wears out over time.

you are gay.. the end.

How much difference is there between getting an S-AFC tune.. and getting the ECU remapped? Is the main difference that you get very "peaky" power, compared to a broader spread in an ECU remap? Does anybody have any dyno SAFC vs (standard) tuned ecu ? If its a big difference, I might be pursuaded to go the remap.. but for me there are many reasons to just use an SAFC for now. It something like PFC > remap > SAFC I assume.

Got GTA:SA for xbox.. in as new condition.. with all box, manuals, etc. Can't get it in the stores anymore. Get the original before its gone.. $120 inc post.

Largest I could find at Supercheap was like 3/4". I need 30mm.. Tried bunnings, and you'd think they would have something like that for blocking off pipes or something, but nope. Guess that leaves Clark Rubber.. closest one is 40km away.. ho hum.

cheers mate... will check it out this weekend

I've got a Blitz DD Blow Off Valve.. This is pretty loud... Not plumb back, but you can unscrew the trumpet, and could make up a recirc arrangement fairly easily if you are handy with metal work. I think an optional adapter to do this may be available as well. Tried it for a little bit, just not my thing.. Didn't have any stalling issues or anything like that.. It has a screw adjust to adjust the bov point / savagery. Asking $120 (inc post) FIRM NO OFFERS (for now) *this just includes the BOV itself, not the pipe. You'll need to weld it up to your existing piping, or get an adapter. ** SOLD **

well i'll add another one until its so annoying that it gets fixed Thing it may be related to QLD user permissions.. probably due to failed attempt at creating permission to QLD members area?? anyhow, woudl be nice to get fixed

Where do you find the block off bungs that you sometimes see on modified cars to block off crank case ventilation points and things like that? They are basically a rubber nipple that sits over a hose point and blocks it off in conjunction with a hose clamp. Probably need a fairly large one, as I want to cut off a BOV and block the t point, without having to get some new piping made up. I see these on a few show cars, so you must be able to find them around....

still looking..

I went on a long trip over the weekend, and one thing really annoyed me. On my passenger side door (r32 coupe) i get a high pitched whistling noise coming from around the window from a wind leak at higher speeds. I actually stopped at one point and tried to adjust to fix it, but not much solution. If you take the door card off it seems there is like two separate adjuster points (well actually 4). There is the leftmost, and rightmost 12mm bolts, which control how far the window comes up on the winder on the left and right respectively. If it comes up too high, when you close the door, the window kind of sits out, and you have to "pop" it in.. but it does result in a better seal. I adjusted this, but now get a higher pitched squeal. There is also two center bolts, which sort of have a locking nut (I think), and a screw thread, where you can use a flathead to adjust it in and out. I think this controls the angle of the window and how far it comes in (probably what i want), but didn't have much luck adjusting that aspect at all. The seal seems to be in fairly decent condition - and cannot *see* any obvious gaps where wind is able to get through. So no idea what it is. Really would like it fixed though Anybody have any tips for this sort of thing? and has adjusted things successfully in their R32 ?

Its a bit stupid, considering the game had to have an unofficial patch to release the feature. Most games can have patches made to allow rude things if people are really keen (and have in the past plenty of times). Just that its not official - seems like double standards. So who wants to buy my Xbox GTA:SA ?

The thing is he is *trying* to be cool by DELIBERATELY mispelling words.. That doesn't get any respect for the most part, and means the questions don't get answered properly. About $13k.. as there are now plenty of R33 with a few mods that are only about $2k more.. People would have to be really keen on an R32 specifically to pay too much more when they can get the newer (and larger engined) R33.. Even though that R32 may be faster than a standard R33, people don't think like that. And yeah, definitely fix that tape - thats going to reduce what people will reasonably pay by a lot, even if its probably only very minor

jeez, calm down.. lol - i had the same problem.. kept trying the ems number (which I don't think ever worked). Took about 6 weeks to get my gear, but only because a couple of items were not available from the supplier. Wasn't really informed this until later though. They are a little poor on getting back on the emails unless you hassle them, but patience, patience.. You can't expect to order something from overseas and get it right away. If you want that, buy locally. I've never bought anything from overseas that I've needed urgently, there are just too many factors at play (customs speed for one)

One of my front wheels is slightly buckled.. and its starting to really annoy me above 100km/hr.. Therefore I am after 1x R32 GTS-T rim in decent condition. Doesn't have to be in perfect condition, but would prefer not too hacked. Let me know if you have one sitting around, or I might be prepared to buy a pair if necessary. Don't want to pay any more than $100 for the 1x rim. Postage to QLD would be about $20, and aussie post will do it (as long as tyre is removed). So easy to post just the 1x rim from any post office... Just wrap it in some bubble wrap to stop obvious chips/etc, and away it can go. Let me know if you have what I'm after..

In NSW you need a eng cert for any modifcation from factory.. in other states, the rules differ, but they can sometime just issue a defect for non-standard items. Cops are getting lazy and arrogant these days as there are no checks and balances, and are starting to write these sorts of tickets more and more.

true.. but there are plenty of new japanese 'sports' models that will give most of the "factory spec" aussie cars a good run.. EVO VIII, 350z, RX8, WRX, Liberty.. All have around 200kw.. and for the most part a couple of hundred kilos lighter. Not sure about "value for money" as many of these will cost about $60k brand new off the factory floor, which is what a well specified HSV or FPV will go for. Even an mx5 turbo with a few minor mods will have a very tight power to weight and handling package.

you really are only talking about 1 car, that being the XR6 Turbo.. most of the other natural aspirated aussie cars require a bit of money to raise the performance above the standard specifications.. other that extra 20% via an exhaust, filter, and possibly a basic chip soltution. Just as an example, none of the reasonable brand exhaust systems for an Australian car seem to be that cheap. Each generation of aussie car, yes, gets more and more power, but they also get heavier and heavier - which often balances out the power gains. From what i have seen, proper modified parts to modify a newish Ford or Holden are quite expensive. Be it a supercharger kit, haltech, autronic etc engine ecu.. or anything like that to really give it a big boost. Maybe in 10 years when the latest BA are $10k, but at the moment, they still are more expensive (base cost, then your mods) than your cheap jap car... thats why you see so many out there. Also you have to remember, with so many interchangeable parts out there for some 10 years of RB and SR engines there is a lot of 2nd hand stuff out there to use.. not everybody uses brand new parts. Yes you can scoff at that, but many nissan owners are a tightass bunch The whole performance thing people are getting a little bored of anyway in some ways, going by the amount of imports forsale these days. Performance just isn't as desireable. Could be petrol costs. Could be increase police enforcement. Could be the cars getting older. Multitude of things.

maybe you're thinking it works like that, but unfortunately it doesn't... you can't import a whole car for parts anymore apparently.. but it would go for more than $2000 in japan (even for parts maybe), thats the thing. Its just that the rules are now very restrictive here... and ANY structural damage will get the car knocked back (which means it has to be destroyed i am pretty sure, *without* you having any access to it at any stage) Many of our cars on the roads would have worse damage and still driving around, being sold, etc every month.

I've just been mucking around with a Blitz BOV (atmo).. stocker and blocking them both off last few days to compare. found that the blitz resulted in a bit of a deadspot after a psht even after adjustment.. way too noisy for my liking. both blocked off, don't notice much difference, maybe a slight stlight flat spot right after, other than the fairly subtle flutter.. I could run this all the time without too much ill effect i think.. not really worried about an old rb20 turbo lifespan, if it does have any effect on that. then again mine is not running too much boost atm (12psi).. also auto is a differnet thing when it comes to BOV's.. foot off the accel = psht. none on gear changes.

yeah, chuck a set in the back, warfies would be getting desparate to steal a set of brake pads -- clever idea. lol.. nope.. my perspective now is the same then.. i want something i can thrash to an inch of its life without the cost of expensive component replacements, i want something i don't have to stress about driving to the shops, and can take to the track now and then without too much worry of seriously stuffing the finances for 2 years. Sure it won't be as fast, but there is fun in building something up yourself - even if it is going to be slower. One day I might get a GTR, but only if I can afford a $10k *proper* engine build at the top of a hat, and the good stuff.. $25k perfromance car, nearing what many would consider to be the reliable age.. which may cost you another $10k just like that.. like anything, no matter how fast it is, you always want it to go faster, handle better, blah. Risky resale.. harder to sell a more expensive (never mind old car).. etc GTS-T's are easy to work on too.. fair bit of room in the engine bay.. easy to get to things under the engine.. parts are slightly cheaper, more readily available, and I know how most of it fits together. GTR purists can blast me, but I don't care