predator

I'm more up for spamming their email address until its un-useable.. but seriously, do you think a show that so seriously distorts the facts really care what a bunch of Internet nerds put forward. Hell, that'd be the next story on their hit list.. "hackers" taking away internet freedoms or some rubbish. Leave it for the old and the senile to believe all that shit, as they already do anyway - ACA just shows them what they already want to see and believe in their minds.

No.. for ignition to occur, there needs to be a steady supply of fresh oxygen to burn, which you will not find in a fuel tank as its largely pressurised (hear that hiss when u open the fuel lid?). Also there shouldn't be any spark if you have connected everything securely, and using proper connectors and nothing is grounding/rubbing itself on nearby metal. Also - it requires a fair spark to set off ignition, otherwise every time you got out of your car at a petrol station you'd be at risk of blowing it up due to static electricity. The factory pump actually has bare exposed neg terminal anyhow. and I'm in IT as well

SAFC / SAFC2 Install Tools Required: 1. Wire Cutters / Strippers 2. Crimping tool 3. Bullet connectors (I used 4mm, but if doing again I'd probably use 3mm) 4. Philips head screwdriver This is on R32 GTS-T, but the wiring process /pins are exactly the same for R33. I bought 2nd hand a slightly older SAFC bluescreen (not SAFC II). Really the wiring is pretty much identical, except for the addition of the knock sensor wires in the SAFC2 (see SAFC2 install manual diagram N4-c on www.apexi.com site for details). All else goes in same place. BEGIN Firstly, locate your ECU. This is just in the passenger footwell, behind a plastic panel. There is about 3 screws on the outside, and then the cover should pull off. You might have to slightly pull up the plastic door rub strip. To properly access the ECU, you'll have to undo I think 2 extra bolts, one up top left, and one at the bottom, which brackets to the ECU. You should then be able to pull it out, with the loom still attached.. You will probably see a clear plastic cover over most of the wiring, which can be pulled off with a flathead screwdriver to get access to the wiring. See below: Now you should have access to all the wires that you will need to modify to install the SAFC. NOTE that i am referring to all pins as it is sitting in that photo (from the top – nissan sticker up).. the SAFC install manual assumes you are looking directly AT the plug from the front. With the loom the way it is, its much easier to work with it facing AWAY from you) MAIN AIR FLOW (AFM) WIRE Now you will need to find the airflow meter signal wire. This is the main one that you are feeding into the SAFC, and what allows the SAFC to do its magic. Basically AFM voltage goes into SAFC, modified values are put out for different RPM & throttle positions.. and modified air flow voltage goes to the ECU. It should be a BLACK wire, and with the ECU facing up as shown, should be 7 pins to the LEFT of the main centre bolt (looking from top). That doesn't necessarily mean 7 *wires* as not all wires are attached to pins (depending on factory options), so count out on the plug itself. Here you can see it in my fingers. So carefully chop it through, and strip back about 5mm of the plastic using the wire strippers. Now its up to you how you want to connect it. I used crimp bullets (shown below), so that I could easily unplug it at anytime and go back to factory quickly (hmm, wonder why). You may choose to solder the wires to the SAFC harness instead, but I liked the bullet idea for ease of removal. ** NOTE: If you have the choice, I'd probably go for a slightly different style of bullet than those crimp ones I had sitting around. The ones that you fold the ends over the wire then squeeze down are better.. as these give a stronger connection ** So what you need to do, is bullet on a male and female version on each end at the factory setup. And on the SAFC to the IN (white) and OUT AFM wires (yellow), a male and female as well. But make sure you get the SAFC IN and OUT correct via male->female.. so IN (engine side) is coming FROM AFM to SAFC (white), and OUT (yellow) is going TO the ecu. Make sure the connections are tight on the wires, and give them a good tug to make sure the connectors are not going to come off easily. The dirtiest way is to twist wires together and wrap in electrical tape, and I know you can be tempted to save a few dollars. I'd recommend against that at all costs, as its slightly possible for the wires to come apart later. If this happens while the car is under full steam, an AFM cutout could quickly destroy your engine. This wouldn't be pretty. So connect up the bullets and they should go nicely fit together. We have FROM AFM (loom side), to SAFC Input on SAFC... then SAFC output on SAFC goes direct to ECU. Thats it for the most important part.. the rest are really splice wires, which means they tap off the existing loom wiring for the SAFC (read only), rather than totally create a new connection. TACHO/RPM signal This is what the SAFC reads to show you the nice ricey RPM display. This is 4 pins to the RIGHT of the centre screw (looking from top), and is yellow/red stripey. Now we need to tap the SAFC green wire into this wire. What you need to do, is get the wire strippers, and pierce the plastic of the wire...And then pull back this insulation, without cutting through the actual wire core itself. Then you need to wrap the SAFC loom wire around the core wire several times to create a connection. (photo shown except bottom one aren't actual rpm wire) Effectively you are creating a “T” junction off the wire to read the signal, but not effect its normal operation to the ECU. There is no easy way to tell if you have made a good connection at this point with everything off, so wait until everything else is hooked up. If the SAFC doesn't seem to be reading/displaying any RPM values when you have finished, you know which connection to check. THROTTLE signal Exactly as above, we need to tap into this one.. this is 8 pins to the RIGHT of the connector (from top) on the 2nd row and is WHITE. T in your grey from SAFC into this. This is basically your “foot to the floor” meter.. and shows you how much the throttle butterfly is open as you are accelerating. IG Power This powers the SAFC, and gives power when the ignition is on. This is 19pins to the LEFT of the connector, 2nd row down (2nd pin from the end). It is a black and white striped wire. Bridge in as above, using the red wire of the SAFC. KNOCK signal 1 & 2 This is for S-AFC2 only, and allows knock readings to be checked, to aid in tuning and monitoring. If you have an S-AFC2, knock#1 is 3 pins to the LEFT, and kock#2 is 4 pins to the LEFT on the top row of ECU. GROUND This is 20 pins to the LEFT of the connector, 2nd row down (end pin and next to POWER above), and is mainly black (with white dashes) as well. This one is a bit different, as you have to tap TWICE into this GROUND wire. The manual is adamant that you must tap the BROWN SAFC wire closer to the ECU side, than the BLACK SAFC wire, and at least 1cm apart. So basically like so... The manual says its for proper unit operation, so make sure you DO connect it up like they say. Thats it for the wiring part. CONNECTING SAFC Connect up the SAFC subloom to the main wiring plug out of the unit, and place the unit where you feel comfortable.. On R32 this isn't too bad a spot if you ask me, although not right in the line of sight (I've removed the ashtray). Up to you. BASIC SETTINGS Here are the basic settings you'll need for a GTS-T (r32 or R33).. Please refer to the proper APEXI manual for full details (free download online). Get into the ETC menu, SETTINGS, and then we want: car type: cyl: 6, RISING (diag right arrow) sens. type: HOTWIRE and then IN OUT both set to (1 1). Leave sens-cal to: 1 1 for IN and OUT FINAL TESTING Don't put your ecu back into place yet! Time for testing. Firstly I would start the car up, and let it idle for a bit.. pump the accelerator a few times and check all items are displaying correctly (throttle %, AFM voltage, RPM). If you can, do this while jiggling / pulling all the connections around the ECU. If something drops off the display or is intermittent, check that connection again. Its best to have a loose connection be sussed out at idle, rather than when the car is on full pelt and about to melt. Tape up and isolate the remaining plugs (used for different cars).. and if you like use cable ties or electrical tape to wrap the end. If you are careful, you should be able to slip the original wiring plastic cover back on. If all is ok, screw the ecu back into place, and the plastic kick panel back over it. Again, start her up and check all values are ok. Softly kick the ecu and make sure nothing drops off easily.. why? your mate or partner is accidentally going to do it one day without you noticing. Take it for a drive and make sure its all driving as normal.. with no correction values, it should just be behaving exactly as normal. Take it to a workshop and get them to dyno tune it. Probably just saved about $100-200 installation cost by doing it yourself, which can pay for the tuning instead. DISCONNECTING / RETURNING TO STOCK May as well throw this in.. Say you want to totally remove the SAFC (to go for say a PFC), or to temporarily remove... Pull everything apart, disconnect the bullets to SAFC and simply bullet back together the AFM wire as per factory. You can also disconnect all your splicings and for the original wires, simply wrap each one in electrical tape to prevent any voltage jump onto other wiring. Put it all back together, wrap the whole loom in a wad of electrical tape, and nobody will be the wiser. Afterall, it is back to factory setup

I get a few PM's about once a month on this one on where the photos are.. Kind of sick of this so time to clear this up once and forall B) How to pull apart your entire dash on R33 .. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=31550 and how to replace the heater core (very common problem is they leak after about 10 years) ... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=32611 The photos for each of those threads can now all be found HERE... http://www.project32.net/misc/dash_removal.rar

why? if u want skids.. buy a gts-t.. if u want a nice solid launch, buy a GTS4 and leave it in 4WD. the weight difference of the GTS4 will make it pointless having if you have any desire to run it in RWD for any reason regularly. But yup, it can be done via a switch or fuse pull.

I doubt any fancier type of plugs will fix the problem.. A member here at massive trouble he swore was his coil packs..turned out to be split wiring on the pack loom, causing spark to earth under load. One way to check that is to remove the spark plug cover.. put it back together, wait until its dark.. give it some revs and try and spot any obviously arcs, or if you can see any jumps in the packs.

almost couldn't be a better mix of cars there.. can't wait !

keep the r33.. spend the money on the bits that matter.. they don't seem to blow up. you buy a GTR, you're going to have to buy sump baffles, oil coolers, etc... then they can blow up anyhow. depends what you want to do.. want to be the fastest guy out there ? (good luck) and compete against the upper echelon of mainly 4WD turbo cars such as expensive GTR, porsches, evo's, wrx, etc.. or just want to have fun in RWD and kick the ass of a few commos, other skylines, etc and maybe even surprise some of the former. There is always going to be plenty in your class to compete against.

It wouldn't be "short circuting" the channels, it would just be merging them.. It may be a good idea to bridge both using a Y connector, just incase for some reason the bass is mixed on the left channel a bit different (trance and similar type music can use this for effect). Then you'd only be getting "half" the bass, and it may not come through correctly in the sub. By merging the signal, you are guaranteed of all of the bass, all of the time... and all your bass.. will belong to you

yes, sorry, but rethink your dream. .. or get an R32 GTR.

STI's are around similar weight to GTR.. 1475kg or so.. and the aussie model is still a 2.0L engine.. WRX always feel quick in the car.. as they have a lot of torque for such a small capacity engine.

possibly.. ball joints look ok.. I had it checked out / aligned by specialists and they didn't say anyhting about the ball joints.. but maybe I should look into that.

will most likely be turbo oil lines.. probably the oil drain hose.. as its only rubber

come on somebody.. I'm totally freakin poor here..

At the moment i have about 140rwkw (estimated), and the auto has no troubles getting a good thrashing from 0-xx km/hr, with very smooth changes and nearly non noticeable changes at the lower revs... and not too bad at the higher ones either (7000rpm changes). It seems better than any "average" family car I have been in recently, bar the newest ones. $1-2k will get you an autobox beefed up that should be capable of 300+rwkw and 9 second passes (and its been done in VL's), which will barely get you a decent manual box. All that said i'm still converting mine to manual.. lol

sticky-outty.. the main problem is that plastic ring around the outside most stereos have won't really fit properly by a couple of mm Not sure why I mounted it out like that now I think I just had to mount it back in the brackets a bit. Did I drill extra holes? Did I want it like that for some reason? I can't remember. Its possible I lined up the unit itself, then forgot the face unit stuck out from there.. lol. Maybe I'll change it one day. Maybe I won't.. maybe i thought i'd fix it all when i ripped out all the auto stuff..

auto's alright in turbo.. but manual is better if you like to drive it.. Ask yourself how often do you drive, do you drive in traffic etc.. No matter how nice it might be to have manual, if you drive in peak hour stop-start every day, it gives u the shits. Autos are ok until you start getting to the good power stage (180-200rwkw).. then they can start to crap out with constant thrashing, unless upgraded. Try to stay away from the "if its auto maybe one day i will convert it" .. as there is a lot of competition for the manual parts these days. Not so quick and easy.

Thats only V-LSD (active LSD) which is pretty rare.. standard LSD has no distinguishing features on the cluster. You would have to get under the car, and compare the numbers on the diff housing to be totally sure. Pretty much all GTS-T have LSD, except mine of course (non TypeM) R32.. All R33 are typeM - so you shouldnt have that problem. As diffs get old / cop abuse, they can basically start single spinning much of the time. So if you launch hard, and one wheel grips more than the other, the LSD is probably shagged. But I just picked up an LSD centre to go in, so mine should be a nice tight LSD soon

yeah.. its definitely the diff ratio.... lots of details in here on things: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=61862

Interested to know what diff ratio my car is running. Its an R32 GTS-T. Below the model code and things, it has RE4R01A then RC43 .. Which I am thinking might be 4.3:1 ratio diff The RE4R01A is the model code for the auto box (same tranny as Nissan Pathfinder as well I just found out - up to 3.3L and 98 models!).. Anybody else want to have a quick look at their firewall plate and see if they have an RCXX code on there, and what car it is.. B)

there are a couple of R33 autos up here that i know have got 13.5-14.0s... with the usual stage1 mods.. You'd probably want around 12psi on R33 turbo to get the power up, and your times down as well. Above that you probably won't see much power difference, but 9psi I would say is probably a little low for R33 to be optimal. What is your 60' time?

pisses me off these totally arrogant workshops that think they are top shit, because they spend tens of thousands on their 9 second cars, essentially by ripping off customers.. and often f**king up cars at the customers expense. Lots of scum out there. thats sorry to hear colin, especially considering you have had very bad experiences in the past as well with workshops.

http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/ For NT dealers.. http://fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrum_s...uperpro_nt.html or just ring 'em and get them to ship them up to Darwin for you.. Just wondering a bit.. as mine has a bit of vibration at speed from the front steering, and I have narrowed most other things down. Mine doesn't leak though.

Ok, I can move the shaft that runs from the Diff to the wheel. I can move it in/out of the wheel/diff about 3mm The left hand side is solid as. Would this be the problem? Any ideas how to fix it? Maybe I am completely wrong, but that seems to be your problem right there. If you've been drifting, it seems that your diff is shagged, causing one of the axels to slide in and out of the centre. You shouldn't be able to move the half shafts in or out I don't think... Its also possible your hicas rack ends are stuffed, causing random toe in and out at speed. What condition are they in?

get some decent pliers onto where it fits to the piping. Gently twist back and forward and pull off .. this will separate the rubber from the piping, which can tend to 'stick' to the pipe after sitting there for many years.