boomtheroom

Hi just wanting to know if anyone has access to selector pin that they can measure with a micrometer for me? pt 33292 in the photo. apprecated!

Btw Anyone know what the torque settings are for these cant find anything in the workshop manual...

Took one bolt out looks like threadloc more than anything else was chalky to touch..

or this? https://www.crc.co.nz/Red-RTV-Gasket-340/6895-77b9c2de-3a68-4223-837f-c809dae05715/

could i use this instead? https://eshop.wurth.co.nz/Super-RTV-silicone-adhesive-and-sealing-compound-SILSEAL-HTEMP-SUPER-RTV-BLACK-200ML/08933311.sku/en/GB/NZD/

whats the difference? is this the stuff? https://www.repco.co.nz/en/car-care-panel/adhesives-sealants/gasket-cements/threebond-high-temperature-rtv-silicone-liquid-gasket-250gm-grey-1215-250/p/A1130561?kwSearch=threebond

so... yeah ..any disadvantage of refilling the gearbox before attaching the transfer case and putting back on the car? can it possibly come out the rear of the gearbox if tilted too far back?

you got confused by you comment then brain fart happened 😄

Sorry.. I meant push to pull conversion… 🙄

Right So got my s3 r33 gtr gearbox to go into my 89 r32 gtr Gotta do the pull to push conversion...so means draining the oil in the box to take the front plate off ,my understanding is the oil in the box currently is just a small amount of storage oil? is that the case? if so is it safe to refill the oil out of the box with the permanent stuff before attaching the transfer case and getting it on the car or is there a good chance some will spill out the back during this process? anyone done it this way? Cheers!

Thanks!

HI All just purchased a new gearbox for my r32gtr ..after converting it from pull to push, i will have to remove the old transfer case and put it on the new box.. is it ok to refill the gear box while its not connected to the transfer case or the car..will be much easier to fill on the ground.

if they do discount for SAU Members...😉

oh ok but the 350z boot fits in the gtr hole?

32 gtr boot

will use oem boot

https://www.z1motorsports.com/trans-case-and-clutch-release/nissan/upgraded-clutch-release-fork-assembly-kit-p-5400.html

yeah .. they overprice the kit tho..

only need the fork and pivot ball so don't need full kit , that why i want to buy the fork and ball separate 😉

Hey guys Im putting in a brand new series 3 r33 gtr gearbox into my r32 and decided while im at it I may as well upgrade the pivot ball and clutch fork as ive seen some balls snap and having a stiffer fork wont hurt..' the upgrade fork is this https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-upgraded-heavy-duty-clutch-fork-kit-nissan-skyline-89-92-gt-r-89-94-gts-t-r32-95-98-gts-t-r33-30531-cd000-build_p_14924.php which i believe is just a +04 nissan 350z g35 fork Part #: 30531-CD000 what im not sure of is it looks like the pivot ball is shorter then the stock gtr one .as i was gonna get the gktech replacement im not sure what length to get..the equivalent Nismo one has a long one for the gtr and a short one for the gtst.. wondering if the short one is the same as the 350z anyone looked into this?

Yeah I hear ya!!! 😉 I think ill jut run 2 and have the 3rd sitting there in place ..just in case.. but yeah ill be getting a 140a alternator

can u do the diode at the relay end also? bit easier if running 3 in tank pumps as on ly 1 earth and 3 +

does the d1d100 still need a flyback diode?

wheres ur relay sitting?

dont suppose u could do a diagram on how u have everything wired up?