boomtheroom

this diode suitable? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/diode-1n5822-schottky-40v-3a-d027-pack-10/p/ZR1023

also is you ssr on a heat sink? does it need to be?

what diode do u recommend for 50A current?

any that have a built in flyback diode? ... also would 1 be enough to run 2 20a fuel pumps?

what ssr u using?

would it be all good to run the lift pump at 100 all the time? and the us a controller on the feed pump?

already have the walbro pumps.. will be getting the linkg4x ecu.. is meor just a a temp solution as i said above..cheers!

Most people seem to think the fuel pump/pumps going full tilt 24/7 will be fine and the heat negligible , but as u say the fpr needs to be up to scratch (mine is rated to 800hp Aeromotive ) as for pump modulation on factory ecu this is the only one ive been able to find https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/billet-fuel-pump-speed-controller/

more asking if there would be any issues running 2 fuel pumps on stock setup before the build

Hey Peeps! Im getting ready to do my engine build and im thinking of things i can do before the car goes in to get the engine taken out and the work begins .I was thinking of getting Frenchie's performance in tank baffle kit(https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-skyline-r32gt-r-in-tank-surge-tank-kit) running a walbro 450 as the lift pump and a 525 as the main feed.. then running -8 lines feed and return to A radium fuel rail and matching Fpr.. I want to do this with the stock ecu and still drive the car around until it time to drive it to where the build will start.. it currently is running 270rwkw on 15psi with a flashed stock ecu and steel wheel exhaust turbines.. being the only mods Anyone see a problem doing this? ( i would bypass the factory fuel controller and just run the 2 fuel pumps through 2 dedicated relays triggered by the ecu. Cheers! for any input.

u ever get this sorted?

im actually wanting to use the socket in the unit to make another harness so i dont have to cut up my original one..If that makes sence

nah it has legs directly part of the male prongs ,which are then soldered to the pcb

True.. Sorry about that 😆 NAh dont need the loom just the white male connector in the picture it is soldered inside to the main board just need the whole plug with the legs as one piece desoldered from the pcb

HI All Im trying to source the male end connector of the factory fuel pump control module .. iv look on ali express and ebay but its a bit hard not know the exact manufacture part number has anyone ever found or know the part number just for the connector

gonna convert to push 😄

downloading it now.. does it show removal and install of the pin?

HI All I just purchase a brand new s3 r33 gtr gearbox.. (cheaper than doing all the synchro's and bearings etc on my r32 one) So i want to remove it from the car ,take the transfer case off my old box and put it onto the new one.. been trying to find a diy but only have bits and pieces of information.. Dont want to have to re bleed the atessa system so will just remove the whole slave cylinder from the back of the transfer case.. my main concern is when splitting the transfer case from the gearbox ,how the pins come out of the (selector) so the transfer case can come off? anyone got any pictures of tips on this? CHeers!

whats build cost so far?

yea just so i can make the circuit up on a board 2x fuel pump controllers 2 x relays then make a harness that with just plug into the stock fuel module plug.. that's all

Hey mate im in New Zealand ? I’m after the internal socket attached to the pump module. bugger that u threw yours out ?

Hi All Im actually just after the connector thats attached to the fuel pump control module on a r32 gtr if anyone has a faulty one.. pm me please

what side skirts are those?

after some N1 or Shorin side skirts and must be able to ship to new zealand.. pm me if u have anything

foot on pedal.. start engine ..pedal moves down a inch.. doesnt that mean booster is working?