SECURITY

ive been looking for a carbon fibre OEM style bonnet (so i can spray it the colour of my car) for my 33 for AGES. problem is the most common ones have vents in them. some american car club did a test on a nissan sentra a few years back to get it from complete stock (16s 1/4 mile) to see how fast it would go with all its weight stripped off. from memory it ended up doing around 12s after removing every panel and part that wasnt needed which included chopping the roof.

plx gauges have a 0-5v output afaik. couldnt you hook something like this up to your ecu to make it retard timing, cut fuel or limit rpm like the IAT or ECT temp function does?

i know exactly what you're talking about, you just seem to miss that i do not care about what you are saying so i ignore it. quite simple. what i care about (and what you are not understanding) is this: - if you are asking about their fuel regulations, e85 (briefly in 09 with the same person, correct?), possible development for shell's fuels and also make the statement that the F1 cars can use the stuff that is in OUR pumps (with decreased horsepower as you stated) then why couldnt you ask about fuel mixtures and what it means for the domestic market on a production level to compare to other manufacturers? it just seems like the next logical question to ask. - why make the thread about questions you should ask if you werent going to ask them? was this just so people give you attention and/or make it known you are about to talk to shell/ferrari? i think you need to understand that i dont care who you talked to or what their field is, the fact is you touched on subjects that could have easily lead to some real discussion and possibly further (and more interesting) information. yet you'd rather speculate as to the extent of Shell's rep's knowledge.

good idea Reg. nobody cares around these parts. like i said, it wouldnt be asked in a way that would seem obnoxious. there are always ways of asking things without actually asking them. like, 'does shell ever experiment with fuel mixtures for ferrari to produce a lower pre-ignition threshold? and how does this compare with other 98 blend fuels?' the worst she would say is that she doesnt have any information on it.

That's the exact response I was expecting from you. You seem to always miss the main point and make it about something else and give your usual "I'll remove your rubbish" line, making it out like I'm the one who missed the point. It just sucks nobody gives a rats about your interview as it could have been great, I'm just giving you a few indication as to why it was a flop. You can't seem to hold an argument which is why I said someone a little more educated should do the next interview. I would do it except I don't give a rats about Shell let alone Ferrari...... Just like most on here. No reason to bust an artory over it bud.

Those are the usual symptoms, just telling you what I've seen on a motor.

have you got the software? if so connect it up and see if the pressure changes when you snap the throttle. i had the same issue on my vipec where the vac hose closed up on itself and would not change pressure and would lean out and turn off once throttle is opened.

then i dont see how she couldn't have answered your questions if she has a PhD. im sure any I.T. geek that worked there could have probably answered the questions. like i said, you asked questions nobody really cares about so in essence you did waste your time a bit there especially when shell has a reputation of pinging at lower timing. sure you'll get the odd person saying 'great stuff' bla bla... but i guarantee no real discussions will be made out of it. you should probably leave the questioning to someone who is a bit more educated and isnt afraid of asking them next time.

well im sure a lot of that information would have popped up eventually in a google search. they're not really topics that i would see to have started a discussion on here. IMO you could have replaced a few questions with something of a little more substance. i would have definitely asked about the ping question with something like 'a large percentage of tuners have noticed quite consistently that pre ignition occures at lower cam timing in comparison to mobil 8000 and bp ultimate, is this something shell has investigated?', if they didnt have an answer who knows where it could end up? maybe another interview with someone a little more technical? maybe a plant visit? as you could always ignore the reply in the interview and follow up with an email asking if it was possible to speak to someone with a bit more technical knowledge.

on the rb20 you only need to take off the throttle body. an easier way is to unplug the gray looms at the front of the plenum that are connected to the injectors. i think they are gray on the rb20, just follow the injector loom.

i definitely would have liked to ask why ping is seen earlier using v-power in comparison to 8000/ultimate. it is clear that any producer would test their own fuels against competitors and find out why/how theirs differs. even my mates who do petroleum engineering at uni do this. it sounds like there were a set criteria of questions that could only be asked as it looks like you didnt take too much consideration of the questions that members would have liked to ask in the thread you started not long ago, especially getting another chance to do so: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sh...nd-t262611.html you only answered the e85 question in the first meeting. would have been good to get a discussion going about the quality of fuels after this phone interview. either way, at the very least you got some experience doing phone interviews.

When you bust a ringland you can either have it give you 0 compression or it could have oil push past it and sit around the crown of the piston giving you overly high compression. That is usually caused by a small fracture or crack rather than the usual chunk that breaks.

nah mate, why?

you're looking for an rb30 series 2 block out of a VL or r31 - its the same thing. it just needs to have the oil drain on the LHS (turbo side) of the motor.

you'd need a leak down tester. ive never used one so ive got no info on it, sorry mate. s15's have mostly been in front enders.. here is my checklist: - make sure all panels line up perfectly, each panel should have the exact same space between them. if for example the left side of the bonnet doesnt line up with the right side, then its been removed/replaced at some point. same with the back and sides (boot, guards, doors). look for the usual excessive welds around the strut brace and in the boot, remove the boot carpet to check for this. - s15 6 speed gearboxes are shit and unfortunately most of their owners think they're pro drifters so check for any noises and strange vibrations through the shifter. - rocker arms usually break on the s15's too. there isnt a way to check for worn/broken ones without opening up the rocker cover but if the thing starts to run rough its usually a broken rocker arm. get some rocker arm stoppers for it. - its a good idea to get under the car and check for brand new parts, once i saw an s15 with the 2nd hand parts writing all over the rear right hand corner of the car. pretty much all the parts on the rear right hand side of the rear cradle had the chalky writing on it. other than that, good luck.

155 and above is average for a healthy engine. too high is no good. anything above the 175 mark COULD mean cracked ring/land but you would know from the colour of the plugs. good plugs are usually brownish. black and you're running rich, glazed black and its usually cracked ring, white and its usually turbo oil seal or worn rings. for buying a car you would want to do a leak down test too. anything 5% and below is good. and happy easter bud.

yes you do need to unplug something else - you need to unplug either the CAS or the injector loom. i usually unplug them both for good practice. after you do the compression test it would be good to see the variance in compression with oil in the cylinders (wet test), a cap full is plenty. for example if you've got 140psi dry and 160 wet then you know youve got a compression ring problem but if you've got 140 wet and 145-150 dry then its not a huge problem.

yeah mate got a engine crane and did it myself.

go home. your type aint welcome here.

are you sure it wasnt what you were wearing at the time when he came to your house? if so then im guessing thats when he got all of those details. highway patrol officers are scummy at best of times. i say play the same game they are playing. ask for video of the incident, a radar/lidar reading.. none of either?? sounds like BS to me. get a stat dec from a mate who is chubby and has a head too big to wear a hat to say he was driving your car in a completely different area. if he had a receipt of the time of incident from a completely different area at the same time that would also help.

you need to reply to more threads bubba.

from nissan, theyre around $90 each. first try some thicker oil.

if its the snap-lock bit you can get away without replacing it. one of mine have been snapped for around 2yrs and is still going strong.

congrats mate. and another + for Unigroup. when i was shopping for workshops to fix my dead engine another shop fcuked, Unigroup were straight to the point, well informed and very well priced for what has to be done.

Tripple post