SECURITY

im putting together a slapper to get me around while my motor gets sorted out. right now ive got some cast Federal and Mogul pistons which i want to use. im pretty sure they are for a standard rb30de. what will the comp ratio be with a rb25det head? i've also got rb26 pistons, would these be a better way to go? also is the rb30 oil pump still ok to use? this will be a work in progress with detailed pics and stuff, should i not bother because there are heaps of these around?

the s2000's are quite tall mate. the f22's stroke is something like 95mm, which is quite big compared to the rb26 which is 73.7. in terms of height the f22 would be much taller than the rb26.

a roadster will be MUCH MUCH lighter than anything the 13b is currently in so torque will be more than adequate, your main issue will be traction.

dont bother with a concretor/driveway person. hire a labourer for a day (around $150) and get them to do it. a concretor/driveway guy will charge you for more than 1 labourer, their own wages, profit as well as try talk you into concreting the whole thing.

out of all of the people i've dealt with over the last week due to my engine built, DART and Unigroup have been the most realistic and knowledgeable so far.

Hey guys, looking for an rb30 so I can get my car running asap while I sort out my built one failing. It's got to be in good condition so I can just replace the bearings, rings and get going within a week. Can anyone help me out? Cheers, Joe

im sure he's gotten enough pm's by now mate lol

you dont understand what he means mate. it was definitely planned - not luck.

hey bud, ive got a vipec ecu that is setup for my car - im not sure if it will run yours.

these are the things you do while youve got the head off just to save yourself a headache later; - service the head.. get it cleaned, get the valve guides checked and the valve stem seals replaced. - machine all surfaces (head + exhaust side at least as well as the exhaust manifold - get the inlet manifold done if you wish, not as important though). - get your valves checked for any bends - clean/check lifters (submerge them in diesel/mineral oil the entire time theyre out) - replace both front cam seals (same part number as the crank seal). do these things as a minimum to save yourself a headache later on. well worth the time+money.

if putting the catch can setup back to standard doesnt fix it then do a compression test. if it shows up ok then your turbo is shagged. how many km's on the turbo?

orange is usually a dimmer, so when you flick on the lights the gauge dims so its not overly bright at night. what brand gauge is it? is it one of those black/smoke faced gauges? if it is, connect it to the dimmer switch which should be on your dash somewhere.

or fresh engine oil.

Kane, long time no speak brother. I havent been keeping up with the news since i got the new ECU, im STILL sorting out a few issues and i've just bought a motorbike so progress on the car has slowed down (read: stopped). ill send you an email with some updates soon.

thanks mate, but i got my hands on one today.

this is exactly the reason why ive got a breaker bar between my chair and the centre console. if someone has the nuts to walk up to my window raging, then they've got the nuts to cop a breaker bar to the face.

f**k yo couch ni**a!!!

i was hoping to enter texi so i would like to sort it out (if it was a turbo problem) before then, otherwise it will be back at the engine builders for yet another rebuild lol

hey guys, im trying to figure out if i've got a ringland or turbo problem. ever since i got my car back from the engine builder its been blowing a bit of smoke here and there and lately its gotten worse. i was told to run the motor in for 500km when i first got it back, then when i did the 500km oil change the problem lingered. i was then told to throw in some mineral oil to see if it would help but nothing has helped so far. does anyone have a compression tester i could use for literally 20mins while i check the compression? cheers guys, joe

what about intake mods? if your air filter is blocking the flow with a dirty/restrictive filter then it wont matter what exhaust you have.

IMO only thing you fucked up with the install was still running the turbo ecu and the retarded timing (turbo motor = lower compression so you could get away with advancing timing a bit). thats the reason why your car is so sluggish. the way it was done was possibly the quickest and easiest way of ripping the turbo out otherwise you would've had to throw in the n/a manifold and the front pipe to suit. then putting it back together would've been the same amount of work and snapping manifold studs isnt fun kids. all youve got to do is run the oil and water lines and its good to go back to normal. its not rocket science and you could do it yourself. if you can get a programmable ecu into it and get it to a dyno you'll be fine. you might get a few funny looks from the tuners though. its definitely different. in NSW the fine for driving a restricted vehicle is something like 7 demerit points.... so bye bye license if you get busted.

check things like a crack/split in your intercooler hose, look closely though. afm (if you're running a map sensor id be almost certain youve got an air leak somewhere) give that a go.

and from experience, yellow is the colour of awesomeness. true story.

lol thats cute, you obviously missed the point. but thats all good.. n00bs are allowed to do that around here.

then you line them up and their bullshit about how they missed 2nd gear starts. you fight fire with fire when it comes to n00bs. 'wow, your type r has an exhaust and makes 180kw at the engine... awesome!! now see that charade over there? 100 bux says you cant beat it."