SECURITY

depends on how thick the walls are. the thicker, the better it will perform in terms of being prone to kinking and closing up on itself in vacuum. ive seen plenty of the thin walled hoses close up on themselves. size matters boys

school holidays already??

ive got a spare standard cat in my garage, as long as your exhaust is a direct swap jobbie it will bolt straight on. im in bankstown. pm me if you're interested.

its pretty simple if you know how to improvise. you will need to use the 'spanner on spanner' trick to get some leverage on the water lines - other than that the steps are simple. in order: hoses and elbow, dump pipe/heat sheild off, while you're under the car loosen the clamp holding on the oil drain but dont take it off, top oil feed, flange bolts - dont undo all the way, only loosen it enough just to get enough space to get to the water line on the inside, once they're off you can pull the turbo out. from memory its a bit crap on the r32 to pull the turbo out the top, you MAY need to take it out through where the dump pipe was. when re-assembling it all sit the oil drain first so youve got a bit of support when grabbing spanners and parts. getting the water lines back on is the only hard part, my advice is to do these first, get the thread started on both sides then tighten them when you have. the rest is common sence. also, replace all of the copper washers. ive gotten it down to a 2hr, old out, new in mission. my first time took me 4hrs with a supercheap spanner and socket set. good luck mate.

check timing @ the CAS as well as your o2 sensor on the dump pipe. make sure its still connected - if it is replace it. also check for vacuum/air leaks in your piping.

custom exhausts are a pain in the ass to get rid of once you're done with it. nobody wants them. its much much easier to swap parts (dumps, cats, cat backs etc) when you want to upgrade just one part of the exhaust. get one that is a direct swap and it will make your life a bit easier.

what about your ignitor pack?

need more info. RPM it happens at? spark plugs and gap are you running? either way it could be coil packs, spark plugs or CAS. re-gap plugs with a .8mm gap if you havent already.

just get a 2nd hand exhaust from the for sale section. if you want to go brand new check out ebay or justjap and get a mechanic or even livo exhausts to fit it. DO NOT get a custom exhaust. they're a pain in the ass.

with a greddy or other type of low plenum you wont have to worry about tilting the motor - your main concern will be getting the sump to clear the crossmember. tilting the rb30 will be shit for height clearances - its not an option unless you go custom sump and oil pickup. get the plenum from ebay.

the ecu cant handle it mate. if your AFM is hitting ~2.8v @ 3500rpm and ~4.1v @ 5.5rpm you will hit r&r pretty bad. turn the boost down to around 10psi and see how you go. either way you will blow your motor by running upwards of 5.5k with a hiflow.

get a greddy plenum to help you with height. i'd think you would need one anyway because if there is any piping at the front of the motor the bonnet wont close - just a thought. an rb25 ecu will get you through the run-in period but you would definitely need to sort something out afterward. the e36 318i chassis is just like the e36 m3 chassis and thats a 3L too - i dont see how it would be a problem.

if you're going to upgrade turbo then you will need an emanage at the very least. emanage ultimates are going for around $500 (thats how much i got mine for 2 years ago). a tune will cost you around $400 on one of these. you could also PM CEF11E as he does rb20det ECU remaps. you just tell him your mods and he sends you a chip you need to get soldered to your ECU. its a great thing if you're on a budget and/or with basic mods. but i'd definitely recommend getting a wideband with the $ saved.

rb30 would be awesome in a e36 mate - i had a 3L M3 motor and running gear in my e36 convertible - went really well. a 25 loom would make it much easier to run all of the electronics so you've got all of the plugs etc. the only issue is that the ECU location of the E36 is in the engine bay against the firewall on the drivers side, the r33 rb25det loom is in the passenger seat footwell. the r33 loom you get will need to be chopped to have the ECU sit in the right place. thats pretty much all i can comment on so good luck with the build!

if by setup you mean ease of installation; you'll need an external wastegate, so you'll need to get some kind of spacer to be able to mount one, get a new manifold with a mount for it on OR get a flange for one welded onto your standard manifold. also new oil and maybe a water feed and return made up. you'll need a new intake pipe, a hot-pipe to the intercooler made up as well as a new dump pipe. you will also need a decent ECU, injectors and coil packs at the very least to be able to run it properly. it will pretty much need all the work it would take any other sized turbo to mount but anyone buying it would already know this.

connect your crankcase breather asap to see if it stops it THEN see if you still have a problem THEN we can start ruling things out. common sense would tell you to connect anything thats supposed to be connected to see if its causing the problem, and i dont mean blocking it off... connect it as standard. its happened before - dysfunctional PCV has caused an oil problem on other cars including my own. start from there.

the oil pickup on the rb30's were designed crap IMO - the gaskets can leak if its not seating well. check the seal.

Ashley, its not about a dead turbo - these things happen. Its about when a trader's product dies and they go out of their way to not fix things. To me that is a dodgy trader. What you are saying is that if someone sells 1000 products (and we all know 1000 hi-flow turbos were not sold) and out of the 1000, 3 failed (we also know more than 3 have failed) and the trader does not help in any way to fix their mistake, instead makes it worse, does not answer phone calls, denies that they even offered to send it to a place to fix it and then dicks you in the end, that they are not a bad trader? Being a trader with SAU shouldnt be about ONLY having a 0.003% failure rate. It should be about how they handled their 0.003% failure rate, was it positive or was it negative? Allowing a trader who trades unethically reflects on SAU's ethics. You are also saying that just because they contribute they are allowed to deal with their failures whichever way they like. Your ethics need a little work too mate.

yeah good point. i see a few people with 10 or so posts selling stuff in the for sale section.

scan the actual plenum - not the gasket. they bend and distort a bit once tempered with.

I understand that Rich, read my reply to Ashley below and you will understand (hopefully) where i am coming from. It wasnt an isolated incident. it happened to 2 other people just from SAU that i know about. i am absolutely sure there are more as GCG turbochargers also told me they had been repairing the same type of turbo failures from sliding performance before mine went in. Its not about comprehension on my part, Ashley, its about moderators being consistent in what is said in threads like this and what is actually done. I've seen countless people banned for being 'dodgy traders'. you are mistaken if you think i expect SAU to go out and get my money back. all i expect is SAU to deal with dodgy traders in the same way they are always dealt with - a ban or at least put pressure on them to keep them honest. instead, there was no ban, there wasnt even an investigation. I opened a thread to discuss what had happened and what my options were, in no way was i slandering a company on SAU. I think you need to brush up on your reading and comprehension skills Ashley. School works. Anyway, my point has been made, yet again in a thread that remotely links to my situation Trent, keep in mind that if a police report is made and anything happens to that person for whatever reason ( ) then your customer will be the first suspect and it will all turn to shit for him.

yeah, admin in SAU cant do crap mate. when i got ripped by sliding performance for the shonky turbo they sold me i got absolutely 0 support - and sliding operate directly from SAU. no pressure was put on them to do the right thing and they didnt even try, so dont bother asking the admins for help.

well the average difference between SAFC and a standalone with THOSE specific mods are around 15rwkw. anything above 200-210kw and you just cant do anything with the safc. thing is, when you've randomly $500 you want to throw it at your car and get power the QUICKEST way possible then things like safc's and emanage look really attractive and are pretty much the ONLY option. i also did it your way, i started with an safc, then went to a chipped ecu, then went an emanage, then finally got a vipec, ive spend around $5000 just on ecu's and tunes whereas if i bought a standalone to begin with it would've been less than half that. but this is the cycle we all go through! if someone told you to just shut up and buy a standalone for $1600 instead of going for a $200 safc, would you have listened? or would you have weighed out the $$ you have vs. the time it would take to get the $$ for the standalone and just said, "fuckit" like most do.

whats happening chicko? where you been?

You will be hitting around 190kw with those mods with timing a little advanced.