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SECURITY

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Everything posted by SECURITY

  1. if you plan on running standard turbo with 10-12psi, the r34 side mount will do, even the r33 side mount will do the job. all you really need to work on is getting loads of airflow to it by making some kind of vent. once you upgrade exhaust and get a tune you will then need to start thinking about getting a front mount or some kind of o2 spray jets installed on a bigger side mount. the more boost you're running the less time air spends in the cooler which is why we go for front mounts - they are efficient coolers vs. $$. on a side mount you will need a o2 or a water spray kit installed to keep intake temps cool. good thing about these kits is they run on solenoids so if you're cruising around town where you dont really need it you wont be using up your water/o2, whereas if you hit the track you can dial it in and it will offset the need for a front mount. anything bigger than a stock turbo then you will need a front mount.
  2. i watch the vid... i still felt like i was watching soccer on SBS.
  3. with most aftermerket ecu's you'll always have to do some calibrations. i.e. throttle, timing, map sensor (if you have one), injector size, etc etc bla bla. read into it.
  4. ticking IS injectors. check for a boost leak or that you arent completely putting your foot down @ the same rpm you're comparing it to - you're meant to either have the same psi in a higher gear (if you've set your boost controller at 10psi), or more. the higher in gear you go the more boost you're capable of generating because of the load.
  5. like i said mate, its cheaper to just check the PCV rather than think of how its not causing the problem - i did the same thing and it cost me a bottle of oil. it might not even be the PCV but i know a few people who have had the same issue.
  6. hey mate, my money is on the blocked PCV if not the turbo. re-connect it and see if it helps. as stated, VSS will cause you to smoke up on deceleration as well as after idling for a while then taking off. your problem sounds similar to dodgy VSS but the smoking as soon as there is +ve pressure makes me think PCV. either way its cheaper to check the PCV than it is to check the VSS =]
  7. yeah good point.. are you losing water? just take it to a mechanic. what state are you from?
  8. as for 'tricks' go there are a few things i know of which are 1. restrict your exhaust with a flange that has a 2" hole or a series of smaller holes drilled into it and 2. putting loads of steel wool behind the cat.
  9. and also save yourself the pain in the ass of either paying for labour twice or getting under the car twice.
  10. you replied 30mins after i posted - i highly doubt you did it right mate. i wait there, squeeze both of the radiator hoses continuously as im topping up my funnel thing - it just helps get ALL of the air bubbles out. i suggest taking it to someone who knows what theyre doing.
  11. take it somewhere to bleed it if you arent sure, you could easily have your temps over 100 degrees without even knowing it. if you INSIST to do it yourself the steps are: - start the car with the radiator cap off, keep topping it up till its filled. - turn on the heater to the HOTTEST setting and run it at its maximum speed. - loosen the bleeder till its around 1 thread till its off and keep it there till its completely bled. - keep going till no bubbles come out of the bleeder. you can use some kind of funnel type thing (see below) to help it along. i dont have a bleeder on mine, i do the old 'put on a sealed bottle to raise the highest point of the cooling system' trick. works well, car bleeds pretty quick. you have to block off the overflow hose for it to work properly though.
  12. before going to powdercoat: after it was blasted:
  13. Yeah mate I tried that and fully closed it's at 13%. I'll have a play with it later today and see what I can get it to do. sweet! thanks for the info mate.
  14. went to a bike shop and got a little clamp for the pedal end - works just like the stock one except its not welded/brazed. a grub screw clamps down the cable. now ive got the awesome task of finding out why my ECU says my TPS is 13% open when at idle :\
  15. p.s. i have a china greddy copy on mine and i had it sanded down and powder coated by Chris from Craved Coatings and he told/showed me it had a shitload of bog in it which he replaced with some kind of alloy weld - so be warned. if you dont get it treated you risk it cracking and come off in the future which may cause air leaks.
  16. i have JUST finished installing my plenum. i just need the throttle cable shortened and im done. some things that are still fresh in my mind: - as soon as you get it, take it to a machinist to flatten ALL surfaces on it. it gave me peace of mind doing mine and i know its plumbed up perfectly with the head. - buy some 2.75" silicon hoses and bends (stock size) as well as some super clamps. comes in handy when cutting up pipes to fit the new cooler rout. - test fit the BOLTS into the holes of the plenum and check if there is enough clearance for a socket to fit and tighten the bolts all the way in, i had 1 of them get really tight, it was a pain in the ass to cover everything up and start grinding while it was installed on the car. - if you want to re-use your gasket for whatever reason - make sure its not distorted. if it is it wont let your bolts through and meet with the head. take the gasket and fit it to the plenum while its off and bend it so that its straight and meets with the bolts with no distortion. what i did to make my install easyer was fit a few longer bolts into the head first so i could slide the plenum in and out so i could guide some bolts through the gasket and into the head. i put 2 long bolts in (one on each end) and i put the other bolts on lightly so that they had JUST started on the threads then when i had most of them through the gasket and in the head i tightend them up and replace the long bolts with proper sized ones. what happens is you put your gasket in, it sits on the 2 studs already there and the middle bends down so when you stick your bolts in afterwards the gasket gets in the way. - top radiator hose: just flip it around and it will fit straight on. - get some decent small clamps for things like your fuel system (dont use the ones they give you). - just before fitting my plenum i put all the plugs that go into the bottom in first by holding it up near the plug. its a P.I.T.A. doing it while the plenum is already on, especially when the black/blue plug has a hose that runs RIGHT next to it. - get some decent tools, i used all of my socket sets (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch). also get some ramps or car stands. ramps are #1 in my book. - when you get your AAC valve fitting welded to your cooler pipe, get them to tap or weld a vacuum hose fitting to the turbo side so youve got a nipple on that side of the engine bay for a boost controller. be patient, always think of your next step before you start something, start early in the day and have some beer and smokes handy and a shitload of band aids.
  17. yeah i know it will cost around $80 over here, i just need a quick fix so i can get it running. the new cable can wait a week or so till i sort out the bugs with the new plenum and injectors.
  18. Tuners will always check your base timing at the CAS to make sure its matching with the ECU. They sometimes advance it too. go back to your tuner and ask them to fix it. they'll remember what your base timing was, all they'll need to do is get a timing light and adjust it to where its supposed to be. for now adjust it so the bolts are in the middle BABY it to your tuner. for reference - this is where mine is set at, and its at 18deg btdc:
  19. im in sydney Flipmo. i didnt look at it from the pedal end - ill have a look tomorrow and see if i can find one, thanks mate.
  20. Im in the process of getting my front facing plenum up and running but the throttle cable is too long. Im not using the adapter as ive got a bigger throttle body that fits right onto the plenum. Ive got around 50mm slack. What are my options?
  21. every hypertune plenum install ive seen on a skyline has gone through a hole drilled where the washer bottle sits. it can be done the other way but you will end up with lots of bends.
  22. sorry to hear about that mate. what you need to understand when summing up your options is that its your bottom line vs. the buyer's of the wreck. i.e. 10k for a smashed n/a is what they go for in good nic. you could always try the Pickles damaged car auctions in Milperra if you dont want the headache of selling in parts. if you do go down this route put all of the stock items back on and sell the aftermarket stuff for a bit of extra $$. the car wont get any more money with the aftermarket gear in auction.
  23. hey bud, i might have just the board around here somewhere - i had to use the case for my new ECU. if i find it and you want it you can keep it.
  24. buy some decent tools - thats my advice. 2 years into modding my skyline i ended up throwing out all of my tools and went and bought some decent equipment with handy attachments. saved me time, money (on replacing shitty tools that break) and effort.
  25. i think everyone should change their avatar to sam's one.
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