SECURITY

i've sent my email in again - i didnt get a reply the first time around. get him to check his spam folder.

give unigroup engineering in kirrawee a call - theyve done a fair few EMU's. there is a 'Motor Racing' place in rockdale to steer clear of though, they say they can tune but your power curve looks like ass and all you get are excuses. the thing which is difficult with the EMU is that it works with the standard ECU so you've still got things like R&R, rev limit, afm clamping bla bla bla to have to deal with to get it to work properly. sure you can get 300kw+ from an EMU but if you hit something like your AFM clamp causing a flat spot then it takes someone who really knows them to solve the problem. URAS in melb and CRD are probably the only places in Aus i would have taken my EMU to.

Im trying to chase a CF bonnet with no vents. I dont like the vent look and i dont really want my car to stand out more than it already does. Does anyone know a place that does them?

im in bankstown and it was nasty, hail around the size of $2 coins. luckily no damage to any of my cars.

as i was reading your first post i was thinking PCV for sure. PCV would have definitely caused the symptoms you're describing - i was in the same boat at one stage. what happens if you let the PCV vent into anything other than the head then it doesnt see the changes in pressure for it to work - the valve is always open and the oil in the sump goes into your head/intake. keep the PCV running in the standard setup and you'll be sweet.

im itching for another honda vs. skyline thread.

best time to fish is when the tide is coming in or going out, not directly at high tide.

1kg = 14.5psi unless you remove the standard oil pressure sender then it will still keep working. aftermarket oil pressure gauges use their own senders which usually fit into aftermarket sandwich plates. i'd recommend getting a sandwich plate as they can be used to attach an oil temperature sensor later on too.

i noticed you put your number plate up on the dash. thats a $300+ fine - if i were you i'd cable tie them somewhere ASAP so you dont get pumped.

if you're spending lots of money on the build then the last place you want to be stingy on is the turbo especially when its the one part that could cause some catastrophic damage to your motor if it fails. send it in for a service and the turbo mechanic will be able to tell whats wrong with it anyway. when i dropped my sliding performance turbo in for servicing they told me straight away that it looked like it had 50,000-80,000km of wear (while having done only 2,000km on the car). they know their shit.

listen to this guy - he knows ALOT about failed turbos. also try pressurising the cooler piping to see if there are any cracks in your silicon piping. your mechanic should know how.

n/a r34's are shit and slow. whats the point of having a nicer interior when you dont even want to drive the car? this will happen: Random dude: nice car dude. You: thanks. RD: its a GT-T? You: nah just a GT. ive got sik plates though. RD: oh, right. hey want to hang out with all my mates driving hondas? You: should have bought the friggen supra.

you'll only find REALLY little dirt particles in your fuel tank. the stock fuel pump sock will stop close to 100% of these from entering your fuel system. i've done heaps of fuel pump installs and all of the fuel tanks were clean with no dirt whatsoever to be found. your car sounding like a rotor is due to an ignition issue. as TALBO said you have probably rooted a spark plug - go through your coil packs and unplug one at a time (only having 1 coil pack unplugged each time) to see which cylinder isnt firing properly. the one where you unplug and has no effect on your rough idle is the problem. change that plug and go from there.

that doesnt sound right. are you sure that it wasnt raining and then would be pointless in dusting it for prints?

thats a shit go, hope you get it sorted out soon. pm phatlavish, he had a s2 r33 he was parting out a few months ago.

i covered that. from what i can gather it sounds like you're smelling burnt oil. find out where its coming from. check the following: - the lowest point on the hot side of your cooler piping, - radiator for milky residue under the cap and - your intake pipe. if it is actually oil then there will be traces there. if not then at least we can rule that out.

i hope you realise you bent a GTR rod which is not an easy feat.

yeah, all of my tuning was vs. psi. plug in the sensor, set up the OPTION 1 or OPTION 2 (the 2 expansion ports on the front) to whichever the sensor is plugged into, plumb it into your plenum then off you go. its all in the manual. i actually sold off all of my emanage stuff a few weeks ago including the pressure sensor and plug to input 5v from an A/F gauge. you need to get yourself a laptop with the manage software and have a play with it yourself, especially when you're the one that is doing the research for your tuner. by the time i was getting someone to tune my car the first time i was explaining the features and helping with the tune. also helps if you have a minor problem and all it takes is a few clicks of the mouse to sort out.

i just re-read my post. its usually water in the combustion chamber that causes white smoke. burnt oil is usually blue.

the reason why I dont think Paul would like the mines ECU is because it didnt cost $1500 and come from Apexi. I was using a mines ecu for around 9 months and for the price you're paying they are quite good. only down side is you're limited to the mods you can do to your car while using one - and that there is no rev limit. AFR's on mine on an rb25, custom GCG hiflow, cooler, exhaust bla bla bla were between 12.1 to 11.5 on 15psi, any more boost than that and it would get too lean.

im just having a stab in the dark here but this could be leading off your white-smoke problem in your other thread. if you've got water entering your combustion chamber then it will misfire. fix your other problem first.

white smoke on boost means there is a seal that is not working properly - the 3 usual suspects are turbo (water or oil seal), head gasket (oil into the combustion chamber), or leaking from the plenum water galley into the head.

read the user manual - it will explain everything. also read through this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...html&hl=emu

i used an emu for around a year, its a good piece of kit but it can definitely be a headache if not wired in properly. check if the map i put up fixes your problem, if not its possible its a wiring issue or even your jumper settings on the board of the EMU are wrong. also if it doesnt help i'd need a bit more info on whats happening to be able to help you out. do you know how to read a data log properly to find faults?

possibly your clutch