Fry_33

I haven't done it yet but if you've got your suspension apart to put the shocks in it shouldn't be too hard to take out the necessary control arms and castor rods and take them to a pedders or something similar to swap the bushes over. Since you've done the hard work of getting the parts out they shouldn't charge you much to just press out the old bushes and put the new ones in. They may look after you a bit if you say you'll be back to get a 4 wheel alignment in a few hours. Then just drive down and get your alignment.

PFC and Apexi Pod SOLD

PFC sold pending payment

Sneezy pulled out so the PFC is still available, other stuff still here too.

Sorry for bringing this thread back.. Can someone else please confirm these part numbers for the ECR33 tensioner and Idler pulleys/bearings. I have seen a few different numbers. I know CBC has apparently got a different number, it would be good to have the genuine NSK product numbers and possibly even the CBC ones so there's no confusion. Thanks

Replied to questions via PM, Thanks

Just selling a few things.. • Apexi Power Intake Pod, includes the genuine support bracket for fitment & gasket. - SOLD R33 GTST, Used for about 4 months. (pick up or buyer covers postage)

Just curious as to where the different wires were run in your car. I put my RCA's down the passenger side. The Amp Remote Power and Speaker wire down the drivers side. I haven't had a problem with signal noise. I have cheap battery terminals from Repco, blingless, but stinger and other brand names were too small for my battery terminals. Would be good to sort out certain wiring configurations that will give noise probs and warn others.

You've prob figured it out by now but yeah each 0.1 notch is about 1.45psi Here's a quick online unit converter http://online.unitconverterpro.com/

I got some info from the thread mentioned above and put my amp over the fuel tank and 12" Sub in the right rear corner, fibreglassed up a seald box for it. Didn't come up too bad and haven't lost much space.

I've got s similar type setup to what you're after I think. I have a Kenwood Deck (MP6029) with 3 pre outs, not the best deck but it'll do, eclipse are being recomended but quite a few people these days. JL Audio Splits (50wrms) - running off amp channels 1 & 2 Rears (35wrms) - running off the deck, just for fill Sub - Alpine 12" dual 2ohm voice coil - running off amp bridged to channels 3 & 4, seeing a 4ohm load. The Amp is an Alpine MRP-F450, 4 x 70wrms @ 4ohm, Bridged 4ohms - 350W x 2 I ended up using a stainless steel bracket for the amp. There's a pic of it in this thread somewhere. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...34720&st=20 Use the search and you'll find a few others setups which are similar and give you ideas on what suits you best. good luck

Just thought I'd throw this out there, I'm not saying this is a definite solution at all (so be nice ).. is there a slightly smaller turbo you could put on that would spool up quicker and suit this application? if he's not after huge power and just quick revs (possibly not huge speeds) then is this a possibility or is it just stupid and it'll run out of puff too soon?

The driving lights for the S2 are H3. Easiest way to change them is to take the driving light assembly out, two bolts and 1 plug. Piece of piss. here's a thread too.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...106636&st=0

I am getting a high pitched whirring noise near max boost (10psi) as well.. was thinking about posting a question about it so this saved me i guess. I guess I'll be checking the turbo - manifold gasket and maybe its worth researching a new turbo at the same time. Does anyone have some rough prices for some of the various turbos for an R33 GTST? GT-RS, GT2530 etc? just thought it'd save me some time. I'd be looking for something of similar size to the standard one.. the less lag the better. I may just even get a standard one I'm not looking for max power figures. Any info greatly appreciated Cheers

Bump

Was getting a little bit of misfire with plugs gapped at 1mm and 10psi boost, not sure which coil/s it was though. postage would be about $10-15 would need your postcode to be more accurate

Items Sold Please Delete

I didn't end up testing the volume of it as it seemed approx correct. Optimum sealed size recommended is 1.25 cu ft, got told that wouldn't even have probs with 1cu.ft. So far it sounds fine, I'd doubt I'd be able to tell any difference. My thought was to make it about what I thought it should be, a little bigger even, and if it sounded bad then I could always add things into the box to decrease it's size. If an enclosure is water tight/proof then you can fill it with water to test how big it is in litres or use packing peanuts in the same way (preferred). Don't be too worried about space as 1cu.ft is only a 30.5cm square, it really isn't that big. It is easier to finish to the existing trim than removeing it and trying to make an enclosure while also trying to recover what is now exposed.

Thought I'd bring an old thread back from the dead and show where I mounted my catch can. I didn't want it over near the turbo cause of the heat and I wanted to try and keep the oil filter fairly accessible. I made up a bracket and mounted it using one of the bolts that secures the windscreen washer tank. Its not that pretty but seems to work.

If you cross reference the 16400-53J10 part number Les posted in the Ryco catalogue then it comes up with Z387. it has the the bend on the top, shown in the pic on the ryco website below http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/product/part/Z387

I just finished installing a 12" Sub into my R33. I thought I'd add to this post rather than make a new one and show you can keep you boot space and have an ok looking box. I am definitely no audio expert and I didn't ever think I'd use a sub but felt I was lacking the lows notes in music. I try to go for function over form so with my amp and sub install I wanted to keep as much boot space as possible but wanted it to look decent. I fibreglassed up a box after looking at many tutorials and references and talking the guy at my local audio store (Travis - Stylyn Moorabbin). I got a drawing out of the following thread for the amp bracket which I had to modify the dimensions of to suit my amp - Thanks MintR33! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...13677&st=20 The carpet I ended up with doesn't suit perfectly but it'll do, I may get the rest of the boot trim done? So far I haven't really touched the gain and crossover settings but it sounds much better than before.

Thanks for your input everyone, ended up doing it with just under a quarter of a tank (went for a short drive to get the fuel down a little more) and it was fine. Removing the lid is a bit of a bitch and getting the pump to seat properly too but seems to be working fine. So hopefully now its ready and safe to accept a few more performance mods.

Hi everyone, I have got a Nismo direct replacement intank fuel pump for my R33 GTST and am thinking about chucking it in. Before I open her up though, does the tank need to be really empty or is just above the quarther mark ok? Thanks

Hi Chris, thanks for the response, I have seen a few and weren't that impressed with the match although I might be being a tad picky. Do you have a pic or two of something covered in it up against the standard trims cause that'd be great. As for how much I'll need i guess it'd be a metre or two, here's a pic of the box you'll probably have a better idea than me. What is the cost per meter? Thanks

Hi y'all I have built a fibreglass sub box for my R33 and am wanting to cover it in carpet to match the boot trim. I have searched and found a few threads relating to where carpet can be bought etc but I thought I'd try and see if someone has specific info as to what stretchy carpets match the boot trim. Surely someone out there has found a match? If there is no great matching fabric then I suppose I could get the whole boot done.. would rather not have to bother though. Thanks Phil