Fry_33

Thanks heaps for the info guys.. I just have a few more questions about all this stuff that would be great to know, so hopfully you could help me out again. I realise the 4x100W jaycar amp would be a bit better, but I don't want the amp to be overkill. My splits are rated for 50WRMS so I thought the amp would match it best? Alright, as for the sub.. if I decided to go with the 4x50W Jaycar amp would I be better off getting a sub which has a smaller power rating to match it? I will try and explain myself.. ie If the jaycer amp is used, bridging two channels it says it should put out 160WRMS. The audiobahn sub that was suggested to me handles 400WRMS. Does this mean that the amp running @160WRMS will only be running at about a third of it's potential? The 160WRMS is a maximum and I dare say I won't have the gain on the amp set at its max so it could be at <100WRMS. Would I be better off just going for something like: CS2342 - 10inch 4 Ohm Subwoofer - Double Magnet (power rating - 150WRMS) or CS2278 - 10" Precision Response Carbon Fibre Subwoofer (power handles - 250WRMS) or Infinity 1040W, or some other similar pioneer one etc. Would these perform better with this smaller amp?? ie run more efficiently as it would be a better match? no point me having a 1000WRMS sub and driving it with 160WRMS right.. I could always get a box made up by myself or someone else, or just buy one. At this point I'll say sorry for all the questions, but I won't know unless I ask The CS2278 jayar sub says it has dual voice coils, what diff does this make, does it have to be wired up differently? Is there a basic rule of thumb that can be used with the specs of sub to match it to typres of music? ie certain frequency ranges match doof doof, and another matches rock etc and another, classical. Anyway I've asked enough. Thanks for your time. Phil

Dash surround and Hand controller SOLD. Gauge holder could be sold too.. pending payment

Hi, I am not hugley into sound but I would like my car's audio system to sound as good as it can on a modest budget. So I am basically after some advice/ suggestions on which way to go. I have an R33 series 2 with a Kenwood MP6029 MP3 deck, JL Audio TR650-CSi 6.5" splits and some older pioneer 120W rear 6" 2 ways. I am looking into getting an amp and possibly a sub. I would be running the front splits and a sub (bridged) off the amp and the rears off the deck. I am looking to keep as much boot space as possible so the amp will go above the fuel tank next to the battery and the sub will be put to the side of the boot in a box (possibly removable). I was just talking a guy at JB Hifi and he suggested a 4x50W amp or slightly higher and a 10"-12" sub. He was suggesting an Audiobahn A6004T 4x75W amp $398 as it was a similar price to similar cadence, coustic 4 x 50W ones but a much better amp. He also said the Audiobahn 10" Sub AW100T (~$200) might be worth getting, then make a box, or just buy one to fit it. I am wondering whether to just get a jaycar 4x50WRMS response amp (AA0422) and save $200. Any thoughts of advice from the audio gods out there wuld be much appreciated. Thanks

Apexi Hand Controller sold pending payment..

Bump, Apexi Power FC Hand Controller added..

Will figure out the postage etc and get back to you so, SOLD pending payent Cheers

Bump

I put up a similar fix for this a while ago, the one mentioned eariler by simon is probably better though with good pics. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...57&t=93178&st=0 I suggest doing your demister switch first to get used to pulling them apart and putting them back together as it is easier without the spring in it. good luck,

The Nissan pocket I got had the part number: 68475-35F00 (double zero or O not sure) I think they're from a pulsar and it was $20-30 can't remember.

I am no expert but I have seen a few different model PFC's and I am thinking the first four digits indicate the year of make (of the PFC) ie 2000, 2nd month.. I could be well off the mark but the newer versions I've seen have indicated to me they're probably a year indicator. The last four seem like the build number of that make. if you plug in the hand controller then got to -> etc, then the first option (i think ) then it will tell you the version number of the PFC and hand controller. You may be better off checking the Power FC FAQ section in the tutorials or contacting PaulR33 IF you can't find it there. Good luck Phil

Bump

It looks like a series 1 dash surround to me too, distance shot so hard to be certain. as Jackie said if it is flat across the hazard and demister switch then it's a series 1, and it also has that smooth rubber coating as boj01 said, and the coin slot too. Series 1 Antenna height switch is inset in dash and series 2 is flush with dash. I had one on my series 2 when I got it so yes they are interchangable, even the gearshifter surround is, which also has the different surface finish. The tray in front of the centre console box and ashtray's may be different in textures across models also? Definately a series 1 airbag steering wheel, and no passenger airbag.

Hi there everyone, I'm looking for a standard front bar for a series 2 R33. Colour is not too important as it will be resprayed but a clean one with little prep work would be good.. I don't really need the foglights included with it, but i guess if the price is right then I may get them too. I'm located in SE Melbourne and would prefer a local purchase at the moment. Thanks Phil

I had a look today at my driving/fog lights (white ones) and they are H3's NOT H7. If you take the fog lights out of the front bar (2 bolts) you can see it written on the top side of the casing.

I saw some people were setting up an automatic water spray system with the RSM for eg 5000rpm. If you were still running the standard computer and have an aftermarket boost controller then you could set one of these up quite cheaply. You could use the earth wire for the standard boost control solenoid as it closes a circuit at 4500rpm.

I'm definately no audio guru but thought I'd share an experience. My friend just bought a car and was having trouble with the amp cutting out at highish volume levels. It would continuously start and stop. the amp was being run off the same power supply as the deck so I gave it it's own new power cable but didn't help. We swapped decks and the problem was fixed. I think it may be dry joints (stuffed soldered connections) in the deck.

SOLD - PLEASE DELETE

A simple test for your alternator is to have your head lights on and rev the car. If the brightness of the lights increases with the revs then it will prob be an alternator problem as it's not supplying enough power at idle etc

After a bit of research, the best tyre prices I've found in Melb is Total Tyres in Oakleigh off dandenong rd - 9569 8666. Rob is prob the best guy to talk to. They mainly deal with tyres but I've even got some pretty good prices on rims.

As your pic shows, you can get them. PSI is basically the american units. I tried to get one too but Nengun etc don't stock them only the japanese items. If you want one you will have to purchase it from an american performance store or the like. Be prepared for a higher shipping price compared to getting one from japan. In the end I just decided to get the BAR one. Good luck

The path through the fire wall I used has a large rubber grommet. It was located right in the corner to the right of the accelerator pedal. I have added a pic to the original post to show it's position. You may have to cut another hole in the grommet to pass it through if there is not enough room next to the wiring harness there. Someone else may know of another passage into the engine bay? I haven't really looked that hard as I had one there. When the coat hanger was though this grommet next a wiring harness it comes out sort of inside the chassis. In the third picture, the hole just under the bottom corner of the orange/brown box where the hose dissappears into. Once the coat hanger had poked out into there I needed to use another coat hanger with a hooked end to link into and grab it. good luck with it

This is just a basic walk through of what I did to put a Boost gauge into my R33 series 2. I know there’s a few tutorials around but it sometimes helps to have a different perspective and more pictures etc. The Pillar Pod I bought is car specific and many other models are available from this brand so this could be applied to other models/makes of cars. The parts I used to complete the job are: 60mm Apexi Boost Gauge EL2 (Mechanical) Black Face (403-A068) Single Pillar Pod (SPMNISR33 from Online Performance Autos, www.onautos.com.au) Double Sided Mounting Tape: I was using 1mmx12mmx2m (Cling Adhesive Products RB59 – Repco) but found it didn't cope with the high temps of summer so I have used Scotch (3M) Exterior Mounting Tape, I think the part number is 4011. This is much stickier and says it can hold 2.3 kg of weight. Thin wire Coat Hanger Electrical tape Wire cutters etc Fine grade sand paper/ wet’n’dry File Drill PILLAR POD PREP I started by getting the Pillar Pod and sanding back the front edge of it to smooth it off, looked a little rough from the factory cut, purely cosmetic. Measured the diameter of the gauge to find out what size hole I needed to make in the blank Pillar Pod. Decided where I wanted the gauge to sit in the pod and marked the position by tracing with pencil around something I found that was slightly SMALLER than the size I needed (you can always make the hole bigger, not smaller). I then drilled small holes around the inside of the mark and carefully cut/ filed the hole out until the gauge fit in nice a snug, took a while, a Dremel tool could be advantageous here. HOSE I removed my dash surround, steering column surround and lower part of the dash. I put the pillar pod up where it would sit and marked a spot for the boost line, then drilled a hole in the A-Pillar cover. I drilled it 8.5mm but could go bigger as it was a bit tight for the hose. I fed the boost line through this hole down into the dash. I pushed a straightened coat hanger (end bent over) through one of the rubber grommets in the firewall (behind the drivers kick panel). After relooking at the grommet it seems I have used a hole that someone previous to me had made in it. I guess they used some scissors or something to cut/ punch through. You may be able to get it through next to the harness but make sure the hose isn't pinched once it's through. If you try and make your own hole be careful not to cut into the existing loom, I would possibly try cutting it with the tip of some scissors, then using one side of them to increase the hole. I think I have seen somone else mention a passage through to the engine bay near the radio for the main loom you could also try (will use more hose though I think). I taped the boost gauge hose to the coat hanger, then pulled it through to the engine bay. It came out in the back left corner of the engine bay. I tapped the boost line into the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) hose as this is what the supplied T-piece and hose fitted. I had a little extra hose so I replaced the FPR hose while there. I also cable tied the hose to the T piece just to be sure. WIRING You want a wire that is part of the parking lights circuit to connect to the yellow wire of the gauge harness. I undid the white plug under the steering column and used the one from there. You could also use the power to the cigarette lighter. Mine was a red wire with blue trace (ignore the pic, I hooked it up to headlight power accidentally the first time, you want parking lights). Then just find a suitable earth for the black wire using a ring connector under a bolt or something like that. I didn’t end up routing the wire through the same hole as the boost hose in the a-pillar as it was too tight, the bigger drilled hole would help here. I ran the wires out the bottom of the pillar pod, then between the bottom of the a-pillar cover and the dash. You couldn’t see the wires when I was finished. MOUNTING THE POD AND GAUGE Once the hose and wiring was done I dummy fitted the gauge and pod to the pillar, checking lengths of wires etc. Once happy I put the double sided tape around the back edge of the pod, I needed to put 3 layers of tape on, leaving the backing on the last layer. Everything was then put together and the backing from the tape was taken off last thing. I stuck one side on then pulled the other edge out a bit and over the a-pillar to get it to stick hard.

PM replied to.. R33 Standard Rims SOLD.

Yes, still available drift king, PM sent

Bump