Fry_33

If you can get the following please let me know the price. 2 off Rays Gram Lights T57-RC (Shinning silver), 18x8.5, Offset:+33, PCD: 5x114.3 2 off Rays Gram Lights T57-RC (Shinning silver), 18x9.5, Offset:+38, PCD: 5x114.3 Thanks

Seats Sold..

I have seen these rims around a bit.. I knew them as BSA-291 wheels, check the link out below and maybe you can track some down. http://www.tyres.com/mag_details.cfm?id=1553 Good Luck

Sold pending payment. They are kind of cheap, but if the owner decides to fix the bolster (not really necessary) there would be some cost involved so I can't ask too much for them. I also want them gone for the room.

Item: R33 GTR Seats rails are part of the seat so they're attached. Condition: Fabric is in great condition, could possibly do with a clean. Drivers side Lower Bolster has a tear in the foam. Don't think it would cost much to repair as material is still fine. Price: SOLD To Fit: R33 GTST/GTR, I'm pretty sure they'll fit R32, maybe other models too? Location: Sth East Melb Contact: reply, PM or call me on 0409 140 915 if you're interested. Comments: Pick up only as I could't be bothered arranging frieght etc. Have changed seats so don't need these anymore. They were installed in my R33 GTST to give a little extra leg room to suit my height. Pics:

You might find some in Link or Link

In my opinion it is unforgivable and stupid to put the timing belt on like yours. Most engines these days are an interference design ie, valves and pistons can meet if timing of the two is out. This is obviously bad as when valves and pistons meet the results are not pretty, and usually expensive. Once a timing belt is put on it should be checked and maybe double checked that all the marks line up. You can put the marks on the edge of the belt and then put it on. That way if the marks on the belt don't match up with the ones on the cams then you need to redo it. As long as the marks all line up you can't go wrong really.

Looks like it isn't lined up to me. The harmonic balancer can only go in the correct position so if the cams don't line up the belt is installed incorrectly. Take copies of the pics down to the "performance shop" and don't take no for an answer. I had a workshop do my timing belt and after redoing it myself last weekend am kicking myself for not doing it in the first place. Good Luck

It's ok now, thanks for the offer though. I have put a new standard Gates timing (T1040) belt on. I could have gone another racing one but I thought i'd just try this first without mucking around with the cam gears. So far, so good, as it's all quiet. It may have just been a noisy belt for some reason.. I put the new Gates Racing radiator hoses on while I was at it too. So I'm happy for now.

I know this is currently a thread for genuine part numbers but I was thinking that is may help a lot of people to add aftermarket equivalents for some of the not-so-critical items, ie fanbelts etc. Just incase you think it is worth while I'll add the Gates equivalent accesory belts for an R33 GTST. Belt Desc Standard Part no. Gates Part No. ALT/WP Belt 4PK850 4PK850 PS Belt 3PK845 3PK835 AC Belt 4PK910 4PK915 These numbers aren't the actual Nissan part numbers but refer to the belt dimensions, I think it is written on them. For those who don't know, when talking about automotive Micro-V Belts the part numbers I have given above mean the following: 4PK850 4 - 4 Ribs (V's) K - Belt Pitch (distance between teeth) 850 - Length of Belt in mm. This should work for all aftermarket micro-v's regardless of brand. Like above if they don't have the exact matching number you can get away with the next nearest size depending on the amount of takeup left.

I had a bit of help from Travis at Stylyn Car Audio in Cheltenham (9563 9500). I think there's also a store in bayswater or somewhere around there. Anyway, Travis was very helpful and knows his stuff. You can always give them a call to get some ideas.

I had a Gates Racing Belt fitted.. I know people are going to say that they're all noisy but that is just not the case. People who have had a noisy belt usually retension it and it's fine. Gates have only ever had about 4 complaints about these belts out of the hundreds they have sold and none of them were related to noise. I am thinking of grabbing a standard construction belt, chucking it on and seeing what happens. I don't want to lose the VCT on the inlet side so I want to stick to the standard cam arrangement. I was thinking of getting a standard one that didn't look as worn.

Ok, I finally bought some LED's off of 666Dan Link. I went with blue and have taken some pics while I try to sort out colours for the clock and AC display. Firstly here is the standard dash.. And with the new LED's.. I then took the clock apart.. Installed some 302 Blue Perspex over the screen.. and then put it back together. I took the AC control apart next. Then installed perspex onto this too.. Put them all back together and had a look.. This is with the lights OFF Centre console with the lights ON Here's one comparing the centre console to the dash with the lights ON It is not fantastic and my Apexi Boost Gauge isn't as blue as it used to seem against the new lights. The Clock and AC screen get darker when the lights are turned on. I think the colour would match better if they didn't dim. My AC screen is darker than the clock and I am thinking of trying the 301 Blue perspex for that to brighten it up. I was thinking the I could find out which wire gives power to the AC Controls to let it know the lights are on and cut it but that would probably mean the buttons wouldn't light up. Maybe there is a resistor on the circuit board that would be easy to swap over over or just replace with another or plain wire. Just for those interested here's what the AC looks like without the shaded plastic infront of it.

Thanks Dane, I pulled the damn thing apart again on sunday and retensioned it. Put her back together and all was quiet.. fantastic. About half way to work on monday I stopped at an intersection and once it got to idel there was that horrid whirring sound back. It's only at around the 950-1000rpm mark.. Damn it! The timing belt was changed about 8-900 km's ago. The Idler and tensioner were changed too. There has always been a little bit of noise since it was done by a workshop but it was only intermitent and I thought I'd leave it to see if it settled. I had a new ex cam gear put on and I am wondering whether it would help to put a better inlet cam on, maybe mine is worn a little too much? I had wondered about the spring as that wasn't changed with the belt. The belt is making a sound as if there is too much tension so I thought that the spring should be fine. As far as the plugs are concerned, I know it won't alter the noise I meant that the service manual says to remove the plugs before altering the tension for the RB20 and RB26. It doesn't say to do it for the RB25 though. I wondered whether it had not been properly translated or accidentally left out or something. I am thinking about getting a new belt and seeing if that changes anything.

I am bringing this one back because my timing belt is shitting me. It is noisy at idle and gets slightly louder at about 1000rpm. This was my second attempt as I got down to the harmonic balancer last time and one of the holes to use with the balancerpuller was stripped. I ended up running out of time and having to put it back together without adjusting it. I ripped everything necesary out using a 3 fingered puller to remove the balancer and adjusted the tension. I losened the tensioner mounting bolt and turned the engine over a number of times to adjust the belt tension as stated in the book and by Dave below. I put everything back together and.. its still noisy, maybe even worse. fn great! I just thought I'd run this by everyone and hopefully someone can describe exactly what they do when adjusting the tensioner. I losened the tensioner mounting bolt and turned the engine over a number of times bringing it back to rest on TDC. I then just put an allen key in the tensioner to hold it in place and tightened the mounting bolt. I can't see how I can really get this wrong. Does everyone else bring it right back to TDC to tighten the tensioner or do you do it slightly before so the tensions not quite as high? Ok, after saying all of this I have been under the impression the whole time that maybe I should be removing the spark plugs when doing this. The manual I have doesnt say that for the RB25DE(T) but Ijust noticed that it says it for the RB20 and RB26. Does anyone take the plugs out to do the tension of the belt? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

There may be an easier way but a mechanic I used to work with gave me a suggestion. You will need a clutch alignment tool or something that fits into the spigot bearing fairly tightly (wooden rod) and some grease. Pack the inside of the spigot bearing with as much grease as you can. Now get your alignment tool or the other thing that fits and push it into the bearing. Push on it and the grease should force the spigot bearing out as it has nowhere to go. May get a little messy.. but it should come out. It was a while ago but I'm sure this is how my mate and I got his out when changing his clutch. I can't really remember it so hopefully that's a good sign that it was quick and easy.

I had my intercooler pipes that sit up the front powdercoated black. I thought the powder coating would help fight off stone chips a little better than standard paint. Didn't cost much at all to get them sand blasted and powdercoated, $40-50 total from memory.

Sorry man, I thought you said not the Series 1.5 one. I know the one you're after, the one like mine but the inside edges are rounded. Mine is for a series 2 and I'm fairly certain it won't fit the Series 1. You'll just try some of you local wreckers or the forsale section and see how you go. Good luck

You will have to be more specific or you'll end up with one that doesn't match your PFC. If your PFC is an RB25 model then it will use the FCC NT or possibly the FCC2 model HC. If your PFC is an ECR33 model then it will use the FCC3 model HC. If you don't have the right one it will just freeze and show 'Apexi'. If you need more info then check out PaulR33's Apexi PFC FAQ in the tutorial section.

Is this the sort you're after?

I can't remember where I saw it, could have been the R33 manual, it said to put a bit of loctite on the bolt thread. If I did this and I needed to get it off again it would be quite a feat I imagine. Is this crazy talk?

To find some perspex in your area either yellow pages perspex in your area/state or google the same. I'm in Melb and went to a local plastics store and got some off cuts. Was trying to take some photos of the result of holding them over the clock and air con tonight to see the effect. Oh, taking photos of LED's just doesn't do them justice for some reason. Ok, firstly here's a pic of the standard dash (R33) Here is some 301 Medium Blue perspec, (my el cheapo tape measure says it's about 3mm thick) Medium Blue (301) over the Clock results in this Medium Blue (301) over Clock & AC looks like this (Could never get a goot photo of AC as it seems slightly darker. This looked a little light so I tried using 2 layers of the Medium Blue 301 ( I don't know if there's room in the clock or AC to do this, just thought I'd try). Medium Blue (301), 2 layers over Clock. Blue 302 looks like this Blue (302) over clock I have an Apexi EL2 Analog Boost Gauge which has a blue light, I took a pic to compare one layer of Blue (301) over the clock. Tried to get them in the same pic to compare, came out quite dark. I think I will buy some Blue Dash & AC LED's off of Dan and hopefully they will match one of these shades of blue.

Have you had your timing belt changed?

Beer Baron, I checked the timing using a timing light, I'm not a complete tard The timing figure seen using the timing light matches up to what the HC displays. The base timing is as follows. My car just won't idle with the PFC below 850-900, I haven't played with the idle screw though. Jono, I am not adjusting the cas at all. the base timing is correct so that's where it will stay. I was just wondering whether the above base timing figures would alter as my car idles at a higher rpm than what is stated (650 +/-50rpm). I quickly did a mapwatch on knock the other night when it finally played ball and initialised with the laptop. I was just sitting in the garage at idle and revved it lightly a few times and the average knock was about 3-4 in some of the cells from memory. Once I get a few other things sorted then I will start to alter things.

It's ok URAS, I should have explained myself fully. I have already checked the base timing and it's on 14-15deg BTDC. I compared my IGN values to Pual but also to the standard IGN values. When compared to the standard IGN values I can see that only the mid to high values have been altered. Just a question, Does it matter that the for the standard ECU the base timing is 15deg BTDC @ 750rpm (maybe 650rpm, can't remember off the top of my head) and the with PFC idles at about 900rpm. Should the base timing be set differently because it's a different rpm or should it be set to 15deg BTDC and then just tune the car around that?