Fry_33

Tyres arrived today, Thanks Ali. When I need tyres next time I'll definitely be in contact.

As per the Pipercross website Revolution Racegear is the Aus distributor. The way I found out the model for my R33 GTST was to use the K&N website to get an equivalent. Find a model that uses the same type of filter as the R32GTR and then search for that in the Pipercross listing. I think it was the Nissan X-Trail that used the same as mine, PP1128 from memory.

I used Meguiar's products to freshen up the paint of my car. I haven't tried other products but was happy with the Meguiar's products I used. Method that I found to be the suggested one to use.. Wash Car, I used NXT Gen wash Clay, Meguiar's Quik Clay Wash again , I didn't, personal preference really Polish, I used Meguiar's M83 followed by M80 Wax, NXT Gen Tech Wax Metal Polish for exhaust, Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Metal Polish (Love the smell of this stuff) Some people wash with dishwashing detergent for the first time before the detail to realy remove all of the wax a crap on the paint. You don't want to clay after polishing as you can just re-introduce straches. Clay can be used on your windows and even wheels to remove brake dust. Don't use it on you paint after that though. You want the paint to be cool when polishing so best to do it under cover. When polishing always start with the least agressive option first I started with M80 (Speed Glaze) and it wasn't enough so went to M83 (Dual Action Cleaner/Polish). Followed up by M80. Start with a small test spot (30cm x 30cm) and try to get that to look good and remove scratches. Take it back out into the sun and check to see what it looks like. If it is not up to scratch try a different technique or product. There's no point wasting your time polishing the whole car if you can't a small section to look the way you want. Polish does not need to dry on the paint, it's just there to remove scratches. Always use micro fiber cloths or terry towels to remove product from the paint.

I don't know how good they are for brake lines but you can get those yellow hose clamps from repco to stop the fluid leaking. I wanted to keep the cap on while bleeding the lines. The brake pedal pushes the fluid out of the lines so I didn't see any problems puting it back on. I was mainly tying to prevent as much exposure to the air as possible as brake fluid is hygroscopic (I think that's the one). It basically absorbs moisture from the air which is bad as moisture (water) in your lines can turn into gas when pressured up during braking which is like having air in the lines.

Cheers Chris. Yep original paint colour. The Series 2 Gunmetal (KN6 from memory) is slightly darker or a different/ more pearl or something. The front of the car has been resprayed though as it had a dodgy front bumper paint blend in the bonnet. Mic @ Micolour fixed that up for me though. Looking at some new rims so it may look a little different soon.

Washed the car and for once it didn't rain shortly after so decided to take some photos..

I took some pics last time I did this with the bleeder kit so thought I'd put them up incase they help. Fill the resevoir (put the cap back on each time). Put the hose on the brake nipple Using the magnet attach the bleeder kit to a position higher than the caliper. This is so in between presses of the brake peddle the fluid in the hose keeps any air from getting back into the caliper. Loosen the brake nipple and then press the brake peddle slowly until the bottle is full. Tighten the brake nipple. I lowered the bottle and stuck it to the lower control arm (somewhere lower than the caliper). This means when you take the hose off of the brake nipple it runs into the bottle and not all over everything. Ok so you will probably spill some but it can help. Empty bottle and repeat. As mentioned earlier make sure you top up or at least check the resevoir fluid level before each time.

Item: Z32 AFM - USED Condition: Good condition Price: $200 Pick-up or $215 delivered To Fit: R33, S13, S14 etc Location: SE Melbourne Contact: PM Comments: I can get a new plug for you if required for $25. Plug needs the wires to be added.

Have you tried Performance-wise for the nismo? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...ed-t178105.html I've been looking at one of these for my R33 GTST. I have shimmed my diff and it crap again, could be because of who did it but don't know for sure. I'm thinking about the Nismo GT Pro TT 1.5 way but being a daily driven car that will see very little track work am worried about it being a pain at slow speeds ie the clunking in car parks etc attracting the wrong kind of attention. I'd be keen on hearing of how people find the Nismo TT 1.5way for the street. Have search for this but most talk about their 2 way diffs.

My belt whines once the car is up to operating temperature. I have re-tensioned once and changed timing belts without luck. I have been wondering if it is a cam bearing. I also thought it may be the cam gear I'm using but can't confirm that unless I tried another one. I have put a screw driver to my ear and placed it on different areas to see where the noise is coming from. It seems to be at the ex cam gear and inline with the belt. I may swap cam gears soon and try a different timing belt. Can check all cam bearings while at it and change cam seals etc too. The noise could be worse due to a lower rpm once the car warms up, creating a bad harmonic. Belt noise can be caused by tensioning a belt too much or too little. It could also be heat/ expansion effecting a bearing.

One thing that I don't think was mentioned here was that (I think) the hand controller will store the Peak value. This may have been due to a noise the knock sensor picked up or it could be acutal knock. The format of the knock values on the datalogit can be changed to show avg knock etc. On the datalogit you can also check the number of readings taken to achieve the avg value. If there was only 1 reading to get the 100 value it could probably be ignored. I am not 100% sure of this but that's want I think after reading some info on this.

Have you tried the below section of the FAQ? I had a similar problem which was driving me nuts as everything appeared to have the correct voltages etc. When I first looked over the fuses they all seemed fine. What I didn't realise is that I was missing a fuse in the required slot. I put the correct sized fuse in a no more clicking.. I'd be double checking this as it takes little effort. Good Luck. My car won't start when I plug in the PowerFC, but the stock ecu works fine First when dealing with a new PowerFC install and the car does not start there are a few basics to check; Check the PowerFC to car loom connector Check the warning lights on the dash, do they come up? On the hand controller, goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK, are any sensors highlighted in black? (Shouldn't be) Make sure you disable the Boost Control Kit if you aren't using it Make sure you have the right airflow meter selected (if you have a non standard one) Make sure you have correct injector settings (if you have non standard ones) Check all fuses Listen for clicking relays Check for burning smells near the ECU and or inside the ECU Inspect the ECU itself for physical damage or burn marks (open it up) Finally we have seen on a few skylines that the car works fine with the stock ecu but not the with PowerFC. It has been traced back to a missing fuse. The missing fuse is on the left side in the R33 GTST and its at position #7. According to the diagram it is Engine Control. Somehow the stock ecu works if this fuse is missing but the PowerFC doesn't See the diagram here for "Engine Control" which is a 10AMP fuse.

You can also try detailing clay on the window exteriors before using your preferred cleaning method. It should remove fallout crap and get them nice and smooth.

It does give you the potential to make more boost as it should be larger and flow better. The wastegate controls boost by bypassing exhaust gases around the turbine. If the wastgate flap fouls on the standard dump pipe it may not open far enough to bypass enough gas. If the gases can't go around the turbine they have to go through and it will just produce more boost.

There is a magnet on the drain plug from memory. That should attract most of the things you don't want in there.

I'm with you, hate the Paypal option when you're selling something. I'm glad they decided (were forced?) not to make people have to use Paypal and get stung with all of the fees. Because it has to be one of the options though I would say a lot of buyers will use it for protection. Basically it ends up being the same result ebay, more fees/ money for them. Sucks how the scammers ruin things for the honest sellers. I guess it will help the ebusinesses out there get their money and keep track of things but surely they will get hit slightly harder with fees too.

Mick from Micolour in Cheltenham should be able to help out with the bar repairs but unsure of copying the bar.. the more people you talk to though the more likely you are to find out about someone they know who might be able to help.

From memory you'll need to remove the whole steering wheel. You'd need a torx T50 (I think) socket to remove the bolts on the sides of it. Then you undo the bolts/ screws connecting the airbag to the wheel from rear side of the wheel. Disconnect the battery and depress the brake a few times before hand to remove any residual charge in the system just to be sure.

My friend had one on his car and I wouldn't have called it silent that's for sure. You could hear him coming from a mile away. On the road both his and my R33's performed very similar with nearly identical mods. The difference was I had a HKS Super Dragger. Mine was much quieter especially low and the performance up top appeared to be basically same. So, the HKS Hi-power Silent was a good exhaust and sounded pretty good too. In the end it just created too much attention and wasn't as nice to live with every day so he sold it. He felt like every second person was going to call the EPA.

Don't forget the basics, double check you have re-connected all plugs.. properly, AFM, CAS, Coil plugs etc.

Discs have been sold.

There is a stickied thread at the top of the cosmetics section about waxing. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...ax-t128481.html Covers some paint prep as well. Sounds like they should buff out, I assume they show up in sunlight but are hard to see when overcast. Black cars will show them up the worst. If you don't like the look of them never go use a drive through car wash, don't use a sponge to wash your car, use a microcloth or mitt. If you don't want to buff them out, can't afford it can't be stuffed or whatever a few coats of wax can hide them. The only way to remove a scratch from the paint is to buff the paint around it down to the same depth as the scratch basically. I found a lot of good info on this website. http://www.showcardetailing.com/ Good Luck

Have you tried claying your wheels? The detailing clay is great for taking off quite a few things. It is good to use on the external surfaces of your windows too. Once you've used the clay on your wheels don't use it on your paint work though. Keep it for use on your wheels or windows only.

I always go to Total Tyres in Oakleigh. Best prices I can usually find and they do good work.

You can also contact the Gates tech guy for automotive power transmission (belts etc). He gets quite a few questions about this and has a list of a few different belt options depending on how you've set it up.