Fry_33

R33 GTST Series 2 - Standard Grill The 4 door skylines have an extra horizontal section half way. R33 Series 2 Mesh Grill - with S badge on bonnet (well there was until some maggots badged it) Another R33 Series 2 Mesh Grill no S badge, car had repairs to front section of bonnet so assuming that it did have an S badge. I think all R33 GTST's have the bonnet S badge from the factory. R33 Series 1 Mesh Grill - you can see that the lower inside corners are rounded on the Series 1 one mesh grill to match the lights more.

It was a while ago but I am sure my firend talked to a tanker driver who was filing up the stations tank with BP Ultimate. The driver said they filled the tanker up with BP Ultimate at the same place the tankers filled up with Mobil Synergy8000. So it would mean they are the same thing. Obviously I can't confirm it any more than that but it wouldn't surprise me if that was the case. I've heard a few people mention they get less slightly knock with these two fuels over Shell and others. As far as better economy goes, surely you can't really try and compare a difference of 20km. That could easily be influenced by the way you fill up each time and it would only take a few more squirts of the throttle on the one tank compared to the other.

My car was going to be off the road for a while so decided to get Craved (Chris) to coat my cam covers. I'm not really into bling so just went for satin black to neaten it up a little. Also cleaned a few other things while I was at it. Thanks Chris! BEFORE AFTER

Finally took some pics with the car clean and new rims on.

You may have GTST bushes. I think they are the same apart from a raised section on the GTST ones, like you have. As far as I know the subframe is the same for GTST and GTR but the mounting points on the main chassis are what differs. Whiteline Plus do subframe bushes now, their tech department may be able to shed more light on it?

Hardy Spicer is another one that should be able to do it.. There's one in Dandenong South that I know of.

Is it squealing all the time, only when it's cold, or only when the AC kicks in? If so have you tried tightening it? If it's loose it will squeal.

The arrow on the belt is only there to assist installation. There is nothing structurally different in the belt that requires it to go in a certain direction. But if you're reinstalling a belt keep the arrow pointing in the same direction as it wsa when you took it off.

The direction arrow on the belt is only there to assist installation. The belt doesn't have to operate in that direction. However, if you do take a belt off and put the same one back on you should keep the arrow pointed in the same direction. The timing marks on the belt are there to assist installation too. As long as the alignment marks on the cam gears and crank all line up with their marks after the belt is on and they line up again after it's rotated through you should be fine. Just make sure that you are looking at the timing marks straight on to remove any errors by looking at the marks from an angle. If you can't see the crank mark line up with the mark on the block easily then you can always use a camera.

Get in there and check it out or get your mechanic to do it. As soon as a belt snaps most people will generally go straight to the belt manufacturer to say 'your belt broke'. I would say the majority of the time timing belt failures will be due to installation issues. If the belt snaps and you haven't replaced all of the idlers and tensioners then the they won't even consider covering it as they recommend replacing all idlers etc with the belt. If your tensioner was noted to be not spinning 'as freely as it should' then you mechanic should have really reccommended you change it. If it stops spinning then the back of the belt is running over a stationary idler. This generates a lot of heat and once a rubber belt is exposed to that for a long enough period it stops being as flexible (heated rubber eventually hardens) and will lead to a failure.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out. I just thought I should mention to be very careful when trying to choose an equivalent timing belt of a different length for your car. I only say that as there are about 10+ different styles of curved tooth profiles for automotive timing belts out there. Unless it actually says HTD on the back of your belt it will not be easy (near impossible) to identify exactly which one you need. So as mentioned above if you're unsure then contact Gates or someone similar to find out what the standard belt tooth profile is. If you did have a HTD belt don't just go to an industrial belt supplier and find an equivalent one either. The automotive belts are typically designed to cope with much higher temps.

I can recommend Mick @ Micolour. 7 Dissik St Cheltenham 9555 8011 I didn't get a full respray but got the front and left side of the car done.. This was to fix up the bad repair job that the previous person had done on the car. I wish I had enough money at the time to get the whole thing done but still very happy with it. Mick really does go to the trouble of making sure things are done right, even the small details. BEFORE Bad bonnet blend Bumper Damage AFTER

I fixed my LHS one as it wouldn't fold in and then recently I had to fix it again as it stopped folding out. The second time I took a few photos and I just updated the previous post I put up as I thought it might help you out. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ml#entry4261947 It could just be the small contacts that I had to fix on mine, gummed up gears or a dodgy motor from squirting too much water in there? It could just be easier to replace the internals as I did this time.

Ok, my LHS mirror fix worked fine but it stopped being able to flip back out this time without having to manually force it to. So I bought a back up mirror just in case I needed to swap the internals over. This time I took a few more photos of how to get into the mirror and swap internals so thought it may help someone out there. You'll have to remove the interior door panel and the plastic cover for the mirror mounting bolts. Unplug the mirror plug and the three bolts which hold the mirror to the door. The mirror will probably stay on the door even after you've removed the bolts and require a small amount of force to dislodge it. Just in case it does fall though be ready to catch it. It will then be free. Push the mirror so it would pointing as high as possible and put a flat head screw driver in the below spot and twist to pop the mirror out. You'll then have to swing it up to remove. Now use a knife and put some cuts in the foam to expose some screws. The centre one actually holds in a clear plastic brace that keeps the wire in place. Remove it too. Start to keep a track of where the different screws go as some are similar sizes and can get mixed up. Now on the underside remove the three screws. Once thats done pull the two sections apart and remove the screw below. Now remove the screws from underneath the mirror section shown. You'll have to move the mirror actuator out of the way to expose the next screw. Now from the underside remove this screw. You're just about there, the whole thing should be looking something like this now. Flip the small section on the back of the plug up. Use a small pin and shove it up the top of the hole as per below and once it is at the end press down and pull the wire at the same time. I think it's push down but can't remember exactly. There is a small tab which you need to move push out of the way to allow the metal connector to be pulled out. It can be tricky but once you get the hang of it becomes easy. Remove all of the wires but keep a track of where they go or use these photos as a guide. You can now pull the wires through and replace the internal section with a replacement. You can always try the original fix I did and lift the black plastic cover to expose the motor and gears. Just take it slowly and keep track of where thigns go. I decided to swap the internals as it didn't cost much. If you do this then you don't have to repaint the mirror to match the car. Do everything in reverse to get it all back together. Good Luck.

Some friends tried this recently and ran into some problems. Apparently the cradles are the same between R32 GTST and GTR. The mounting points on the chassis are the things that are different. So bushes form an R32 GTST and GTR will both go into the cradle but they will not bolt up to the car if they're incorrect. So choose subframe bushes to suit your chassis.

By is it the bearing already I was suggesting it could be a bad bearing but I guess it would be constantly making a noise if that was the case. The meter will have a Newtons or kg scale on it (maybe both). You basically just reset them and then just press down until it clicks. Then read the tension on the scale. The place you test it is at the locations of the black arrows. Seeing as how the belts are already on and have been ran in you want a tension value within the Adjustment range in Newtons or kg in the {} brackets. The info I put up is for an R33 but it should be pretty close, maybe even the same.

To my knowledge the 'belt dressings' are not good for belts. I think they basically chemically soften (melt) the belt rubber so it grips more. These things are only a band aid fix and one application may not fix it or ever for that matter. This isn't the best for the belts either and you can end up with gooey rubber on the pulleys (or anything else it flies off an hits). Typically a squealing belt is the sign of a tension issue. What sort of belts have been installed? Is it every belt that is squealing or is it already a bearing? Do you have the air con on when you start it up? Here is some info on Auxiliary Belt Tensioning that may be useful. R33___Auxiliary_Belt_Tensions.pdf

I have heard that Blackman & Sons do good work. I have never seen anything they've done though so can't comment on experience. http://www.blackmanandsons.com.au/

The cheap one could be ok. I can't say I've used one but you shouldn't need too much torque as such. You aren't trying to remove the paint imperfections with pure grunt, that's what the polishing products are for. As far as I know the whole point of the random rotating head is so that it DOESN'T heat up the paint. The problem with rotary buffers (angle grinders) is that they just turn and don't oscillate. This heats up the paint quicker and is why you have to be very careful with them. The random orbitals are much safer. Here are some examples of holograms left buy a rotary buffer. Just above the door handle you can see the circlular patterns. These are common where people don't really know what they're doing with a rotary buffer. Some waxes can hide these. When polishing you want to do it under cover so the paint work isn't hot. You generally won't see professional detailers outside, if they are then they'll try to be in the shade. As long as you use the right pad and polish choice you should be fine. If anyone's worried about harming their cars paint because they're inexperienced then get a cheap crappy panel from a wreckers and have a go on that. You can then practice all of the claying, polishing and waxing you like. Once you're happy you could wash it with dish washing detergent and rub a kitchen scourer over it and start again. If you do get the buffer then try and get a seperate pad for the polish and wax. There could be a microfiber bonnet for the wax already though? Good Luck.

Contact performance-wise and see if they've got one. The below link shows them advertising Nismo products. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...ed-t178105.html

Price Drop - $1350

I just wondered what your technique was when you used the ScratchX. I only ask because if you didn't use it as they intended then you will not get the results they market. I'm definitely not calling you stupid so don't take offence. I have seen a video of the Meguiar's guys using this and they mentioned that it can give very similar results to using buffing machines, it just takes longer and obviously takes a lot more effort. This doesn depend on how dep the scratches are though. After the paint was clean they worked on a small 30x30cm square and you apply some scratchX to the foam pad and spread it around. Then start to work the product in an up and down motion and then side to side. Keep moving the product from the edges back into the area you're working on. The product has diminishing abrasives in it so the more you work it the finer the particles get. If you reall want to tell if it is doing something then use some painters tape and put a line of it on the paint and then remove once done and you'll see if you've made an improvement. If you try to large an area you may not achieve much at all. If you do see an improvement but don't get it to exactly how you want try another application on the same area. There is no advantage in letting the ScratchX dry on the paint before you remove it. Use a clean microfiber towel to remove the product or you might just be adding scratches back into the paint. You'll need to wax the paint after using polishes. I just thought I'd mention this as it MAY help and if you've already got the ScratchX it doesn't cost you anything.

BUMP

Item: 19x8" (+35 offset) Lenso Muse Rims - Bronze + Tyres. Rims have 5 x114.3 stud pattern. Condition: Used, Few Gutter marks one of the wheels. 2 x Toyo T1R (245x35x19) which are basically no good except for the rears for a short time. 2 x Marshal Matrac TX (245x35x19) made by khumo apparently. Were only used for 1-2 months so plenty of life left. Price: $1500 To Fit: R33 GTST not sure about which other models they fit. Location: SE Melbourne Contact: PM or post here. Comments: Happy to take more photos if required. PICS Toyo T1R's Marshal Matrac TX's Pics on an R33 GTST

I just put mine in the inside covers for the side mirrors as others have mentioned. I just used the mounting cups they came with. Sitting inside the car with the door shut I put the cup where I wanted it and marked the hole with pencil. Drilled the holes in a smaller diameter than the screws and then just screwed them in. If you do do this make sure the doors closed as otherwise it might get ripped off when you shut the door. It can be a little fiddly getting the door skin and these mirror covers. Sort of have to do them at the same time. I am no expert on audio setups etc but I find it's fine in this location. I don't think I'd want my tweeters pointed straight at me as it would probably sound too tinny for my liking. This is in my R33 so I don't know if it is different for the R32?