Fry_33

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It is the same as the standard turbo as far as I know. For example this dump pipe will bolt up to a GT2530 and that can replace the standard turbo.

Item: HKS Dump Pipe - No longer available Condition: Used Price: $175 To Fit: RB20/RB25 Location: Melbourne Contact: PM Me Comments: Was used with a HKS turbo on an RB25. I am not sure if it is genuine HKS as it's not written on it but I'm pretty sure it is, it is from Japan I know that. Can post at buyers expense, pick up welcome.

The Gates Racing belts are a superior belt design compared with the standard belt and basically it is a stronger belt. Saying that I have never heard of a problem with a standard Nissan belt. Keep in mind that this will probably be made by Gates too. If you search you will hear a few complaints about Gates Racing timing belts being noisy but you will often find the belt was not tensioned correctly. I had one and was getting frustrated by a noise from a gates racing timing belt but it turned out to be a very slight humming noise from the turbo at idle. If you don't expect to upgrade your car extensively and make huge power then just use a Nissan one.. or whatever you can get cheaper. You can actually get a standard Gates belt (T1040) that should be cheaper than the Gates racing version (T1040R). The T1040 is made to the same specs as the OE belt, just not branded Nissan. I have the standard Gates belt on my car. The good thing about the kit is that it comes with the idler, tensioner and seals. If you bought these all genuine from nissan then it would cost a bit I would think. You can buy the idlers, tensioners and seals form other places and buy whatever belt you like too. Search and you can find the part numbers for these items. Good Luck

I think this is where I got mine a while back, came with the plug attached.. so give them a call and see how you go Pectro-Ject http://www.pjvic.com.au/cms/details.asp?NewsID=11

Timing belts have been covered plenty of times so start searching and you should find out a lot of info. Timing belts will always track to one side, it is due to how they are manufactured. One pulley/sprocket is flanged (crank pulley) and stops the belt from tracking off of the pulleys. If you change the timing belt you should replace the idler bearing and tensioner bearing also, again search and ye shall find. Just an extra bit of into, the arrows on a timing belt are not crutial but do help line up the installation marks . The other reaon they are there is for when you take the belt off, you re-install it in the with the arrow going the same way.

You will not hear the noise with the car parked and the hood up. The car will not be producing boost as it will not be under load. As stated the simplest answer is the best place to look first, mainly because it is the cheapest thing to do. There only needs to be a tiny leak, you won't hear it off boost but when on boost the pressures are high enough to make the difference.

You may be talking about holograms (below).. these are usually put into the paint by someone not using a rotary buffer correctly. The car may look great in the shade but put it out in the sun and if you move your head around slightly you will see holograms and probably swirls too. Getting your paint looking good (like almost any job) is all in the preperation work. This is what I did with my paint and it improved it heaps. - Wash (not with a sponge, use a microfiber cloth or mit) - Clay the car, this makes your cleans contaminants off your paint and smoothes it like glass which improves reflections. Some people wash it again after this but I didn't feel it was necessary. - I taped off the rubber trims, badges, handles, and edges of the lights. - buffed the car using an orbital buffer (oscillates up and down and round and round) - this helps prevent the holograms as a rotary buffer just spins and it is easy to leave impressions in the paint as it heats the surface up. I used two passes of meguiars M83 followed by one of M80, there's plenty of products out there which are good and this is just what I tried. This step removes the swirls and hopefully the holograms too. Do a test spot and then put your car in the sun and see what it looks like. If you can't get one small section of the car right there's no point in doing the rest of it the same way. You could do this step by hand with meguiar's SratchX or similar, it will just take a bit of elbow grease. - Wax the car, again there's plenty of brands out there, I chose meguiar's Next Gen Tech Wax. - use plastic cleaner/polish like Plastx to clean your headlights if needed.. toothpaste or similar may work also. Every time you wash the car, use a microfiber and never a sponge. Dry your car with a microfiber afterwards too. Last thing you want to do is put scratches back in your paint bay washing it. I went from this.. to this.. It's not perfect but is a big improvement. You have the worst case scenario as it is black paint which shows up imperfectionsworse than other colours. just take your time and search around for what other people do for their black paint. Good Luck

I would be checking all of the hose clamps on your piping first. If one one these isn't tight you may have a leak which could only be present on boost.

I have been unable to find a lot of information about turbo repairs/rebuilds of HKS and garret items. So far I know GCG can do it but I am in Melbourne and was wondering if there is anywhere local that can do it. If you have had one repaired then please post up where you had it done and give the rough price you were charged. Thanks

Is that just a GTR airbox?? Is there an inlet underneath it?

I have a replacement bearing - NSK. I haven't changed it over yet as I got a replacement pulley with the original bearing in it from a wrecker. I will change it over when I get time. This is written on the side of the box it's in 6301VVCM NS7S 612. This was crossed over at Statewide Bearings or CBC (Consolidated Bearing Company) can't remember which one. As most have already said take the belt and pulley off, drive down and show them the pulley and get them to match the bearing. They may be able to swap it over for you too. If they can't do it try a local engineering place. Last resort, you may be able to remove it with a socket of a similar size to the outer rim of the bearing. Carefully use a hammer to tap it out with the socket on the outer rim, get the new bearing and use the same method to put it in.

My friend had this (siren noise) happen to his R33 Series 2 turbo. We're pretty sure that it was a bent shaft at the compressor end and the Nylon comp wheel hitting the housing. Time for another turbo

After the misinformation about the ATP turbo I started to look around at a few more. Not because the ATP turbos wouldn't be any good but it will give a different result to the one I'm after. I am now looking at getting a 2530, should allow me to get around the 220-230rwkw mark. Sounds like they are a very responsive turbo. I read a few posts that said the 2540 uses the same turbine as the 2530 but the compressor of the 2540 isn't matched as well to the turbine as the one in the 2530. I think it was Gary (SydnetKid) that mentioned this as well. I think they ended up not going with the 2540 for this reason and made the GT-RS.

Apologies Scott.. I don't know why but I talked to Kyp today and he says he only does a stage 3 version??? I feel like a moron, but I was just saying what I was told and wrote down, weird. Looks like the Stage 3 is rated up to 250rwkw @ 15psi, depending on your mods etc. ~$1680 changeover. It uses a bush bearing core deisgned by Kyp. He tried roller bearing core with this setup in the past but it created compressor surge. He will mod your oil lines and banjo bolts etc as well.

Thanks for the input guys.. I will have to research a bit more me thinks. I currently have 180rwkw with std turbo, basic mods, bleedvalve (12psi), PFC. I know I can make "200rwkw" but this does depend on the tune and especially the DYNO. I don't want the turbo to stick out like dogs balls when I pop the hood so that's why I have been looking at the hiflow options. I haven't been looking at the 250rwkw mark as I thought it might be a bit of overkill for the street and daily driver. I am also worried about increasing the lag too much over standard. Saying that I figure I will need to either upgrade injectors or FPR and AFM for anything between 200rwkw to 250rwkw anyway. Thanks Discopotato, I haven't looked where I could find all of these parts yet but I will do my best.

Hi Bass, I'm interested in getting a black one for my R33 gts-t series II delivered to 3165. How long until you will have more of these? If soon then PM me your bank account details and I'll sort out payment. Thanks

Scott, I may have to disagree with some of the stuff you said.. I talked to Kyp the other day and said there are about 8 different stage turbos from him for the RB25DET. Stage 1 - uses standard RB25 compressor, Garrett Core and ex turbine ~ 200rwkw [ ~ $1320 ] Stage 2 - uses bigger than standard compressor wheel, Garrett Core and ex turbine (back cut) ~ low 200rwkw range (my guess 220or so) [ ~ $1430 ] Stage 3 - about 250rwkw. Can remember what the turbo consisted of. [ ~ $1680 ] I didn't bother asking about any further ones as they don't interest me. I can't remember whether I asked if they use bush, roller, or ball bearing core. I assumed ball bearing but I don't like assuming. I should probably ask Kyp and clear it up. The power figures above are approx figures Kyp gave but they will vary between dynos, how much boost you're running and accompanying mods.

Hi all, My turbo standard R33 turbo is dying and one of the replacement options I'm considering is the ATP stage 2 hiflow. I have been searching but I can't really find a great deal of info on them. Now surely there are a few of you out there who have used them. If so can you please post up your experiences with them. Mods and a power graph would be great for comparison. I am fairly sure that I'll need to upgrade my standard injectors if I go this way or use an adj fuel pressure regulator (less preferred option) Thanks.

Bunnings.. that explains it. I have not tried to buy stuff from there myself as others said it was way too overpriced. I had Solid Solutions which luckily was local. One other option is to ask your local car audio store where they get their FG from, that's how I found out.

Where are you buying your fibreglass materials? I don't know what area you live in but I got my supplies from a local fibreglassing place, Solid Solutions.. http://www.solidsolutions.com.au/index.php Local boat repair shops should have supplies at pretty good prices too.

Looking good man. I did a bit of a run through of what I did a while back.. here's the link. http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums...=69345&st=0 http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums...mp;#entry823684 I started similar to how you are but then decided to cut the base section off and use a piece of MDF. I think this helped to make is a little mor rigid and helps to keep it bottom heavy. Where ever you have a large flat section it is good to use a piece of MDF. It is cheaper and is quite strong. I decided to tape over the boot trims and then fibreglass over that. That way when you finish the sub box you just get it trimmed. If you remove the boot trim and fibreglass to match the metal frame once you finish the box you need to trim the box and try to trim the exposed areas around it. You can always trim the box and retrim the existing boot trims. My boot install isn't very elaborate and one advantage of this is that if I do require all of the boot space for some reason I can just turn the Sub off at the deck, unplug it, remove the box, and the trims are still there. Good Luck with it.

Gates equivalents are: T1040 - Standard belt T1040R - Gates Racing belt Standards Nissan belt (I am 99% sure Gates make this) I can't remember the tensioner and idler number but there is a thread on which ones to get and some options of where to get them. I'm sure I put a post in there too. Do your water pump at the same time. There are some seals too but I don't think mine were done. While you're at it you could get some new accesory belts and radiator hoses if you want too?

Thanks Basti, I was looking at getting them in silver so that's not a problem. I feel like I have a black flag against my name for something as they seem to ignore me..?

Basti, did you get a response on your T57-RC question? I am assuming they can't get them as I didn't get a response to my post. If they can't get them then that's fine, but it would be nice if they confirmed it though.