Jump to content
SAU Community

zelda

Members
  • Posts

    84
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by zelda

  1. Nice one bro, good read.
  2. Lol yes Scott. What's causing this dry solder joint? Over or under voltage. Josh I'm not telling people to adjust their pots I was asking if somebody like yourself who apparently knows everything if they had a better idea on how to find out for sure before tweaking it. ? All I'm saying is cleaning the joins will also work if you don't have a soldering iron( which I do, just didn't need it) Sure may not be as good. The boost gauge is so crappy anyway I'm not sure why you have to get so defensive about it. It's only good for 1bar. Just another option guys ?
  3. Sweet mate, just trying to help people out like plenty have done here for me.. forgive me for not doing what scotty said lol Rant over.
  4. It's not necessarily a dry solder joint, as you have all found the re soldering of the connections only lasts so long.. This is probably due to over voltage or a lack of it, solder tends to add resistance to a join creating a hot spot causing the actual connection to fail before anything else, hence the reason for putting voltage pots in the pcb to compensate for added or less resistance in the total circuit ( impedance or Z )
  5. Thanks for the insult brick. I'm an electrician by trade. If you didn't know, copper actually oxidises and by gently removing this with a clean blade your essentially cleaning the contact to the pcb. Sorry that my common sense insulted you ?
  6. Great tip, if you don't have a soldering iron and want to quick fix get a small clean blade and clean around the edges of the solder where it contacts the pcb. That's where mine had the crud built up and it worked a treat after, I noticed their is two small pots on the pcb also, look to be voltage regulators, anybody know for sure? This could be tweaked to help prevent future failure. Zelda
  7. Threw on the cold air kit today, idle seemed to go back to 650/750 rpm compared to the factory which I could never get to stay at. ? And had a play around with the boost T, steady 14psi now bit more of a joy to drive ? Now let's see who is the first to give me s**t for using a k&n pod and ditching the factory unit....
  8. How much for the front pipe? And would you be willing to ship over the ditch? Many thanks. Zach
  9. Yeah I have done the readings just curious what you went for, sounds the go mate.
  10. Pics Nathan? What rotors and pads did u use?
  11. Put some black graphic vinyl over the tail lights
  12. Lol it was literally quoted on the spot, I would be taking the car down for him to look at next time and give him a proper go at it. Did anyone know that m24n is just a code for the material garret use.... Learn something new everyday
  13. I agree Scott. But do like to support my local if I can. For 1250 Aus plus postage I'm already looking at 1650nz to get one here and have the car off the road for the added shipping time and if I need to use warranty, same process. I'll talk to the guys again about what exactly goes into a "stage 2" He also mentioned he had done Vq/vg turbos in the past and wanted me to ask the sau guys if the oil lines have restrictors in them not just in the banjo but actual line and if the line runs through the block or simply bolt to it to pick up the feed. Anybody sure ?
  14. Forgot about him actually, he is dam good at this stuff. So I'll give him a bell, have already spoken to Soichi about tuning which he's happy to do, but still have to complete supporting mods first, How's your car going Dale? That fcon harness you sold me is dying to go on haha.
  15. So just went to pick up a silicone joiner from the shop, who also are certified garret and holset turbo specialist. And queried the guy about hi flowing my stock m35 turbo, he said a stage 2 would cost me 1650 plus gst which is pretty steep, so does anyone in nz know where to get this done at a better price? Hopefully get the quote back for the shift kit install tomorrow
  16. Zach from Auckland 250t rs4 03
  17. About the same through partmaster, Nissan didn't have them available on the day and wanted some made up figure in their heads ( he quoted me $122 over the phone )
  18. Didn't go through Nissan Scott, since i get a great deal at partmaster here in NZ they can source them waaay cheaper than nissan will ever do for me lol. That's good to know about the pulley kits thanks, I'll use the money on other goodies. Pm sent
  19. If anyone has had troubles getting drivers side cam cover gasket ( aq800 ) the vq30 is a match, my supplier took a few goes to figure this out as he couldn't find the original. Also does anyone know if the 350z pulley kits work on vq25det ? Or will they be under/over driven? I'm sure they take the same belt but...
  20. No issues after 6 months although I was a little concerned at first. Keeping wheel alignment and balance in check probably helps too.I still have the urge to go 10" all round with 255, that'd sit noice
  21. Bad earths perhaps on coil loom.
  22. Replaced cam cover gaskets today, new plugs plfr6's, new oil and filter ( royal 5w 30) and gave it a good degrease/ clean. Chuck the boost T in tomorrow and see if this turbos gonna handle 1bar haha. Talk about carbon build up huh?! Too scared to lift the cam caps :s
  23. Hey mate, this was a random score. I joined a Facebook group "stagea owners club" it's NZ based.One of the lads on their was selling his car which has the spoiler and kindly offered it for swaps with an original and cash his way. I went straight to the ATM lol. I know lots of people after them and for some reason they are dam hard to get. Good luck on finding one. As for the wheels they are wolf s36 18x8.5 and 9.5 245/45/18s offset I'm a little unsure measures roughly 20/30p. Lowered on bc golds no rubbing etc
×
×
  • Create New...