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BensDR30

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Everything posted by BensDR30

  1. There's a thread somewhere that talks about this issue, and refers to the G35/Z33 which is prone to the problem. Do a youtube search and you'll find a vid of someone discovering the issue. I think a new cam-cover is required to fix the problem properly, but a dose of sealant may do the trick. rear plug, passenger side.
  2. They wish they didn't. But is a chev really any better?
  3. Maltech is the go. Remember, if you have a stack and have non-ADR lines, you can probably kiss your insurance goodbye. Things like brakes tend to be inspected and taken into consideration more than an FMIC in a serious crash... I bought ADR-approved braided lines for my Z from my local ABS - $75 per line. I simply took the old ones in & 3 hours later, the new ones were ready. The Stagea is a bit more complicated than that if you wish to maintain the factory assembly design. But I'm sure you could simplify the factory setup & use a more generic line.
  4. My 2c is on this being a fake. Anyone near Japlink that can get the Chassis #?
  5. Sure; (further to your query, if you can get a look of the factory build plate, the colour code will be revealed there too.)
  6. April 1990, KBNR32RXFSLMZG, KH2 to be exact! June 1998, GGKBRTFR34UDABJJ--, 25GTt, QM1.
  7. Nice work. Looks like you had the factory-fitted leaky rear-left shock too!
  8. Or just buy a DIN pocket for about $20 from your local Nissan dealer
  9. I completely forgot about the ABS unit when I flushed the system... I'm sure I drained it beyond the limit, but if so it bled ok with a vacuum bleeder pump.
  10. Crapola... keep us posted with the diagnosis Micah.
  11. x3 on the 'try a different approach' theory. But NA Stagea = PM35 350RX FTW But seriously, I think you'll be stuck with something much less gracious regarless of your good intentions. If you're after a wagon, and Nissan, then a nice S3 R31 would be a reasonable thing (and less than $5k). I'm not trying to force you into the stereotype of P-plate R31 owners, but there you go! FWIW, I bought my 240Z when I was 19 (first car). By the time I was 21, it was running a custom EFI L24 Turbo and produced a little over 200% factory kW at the rear wheels... I haven't really ever bent it (curbed it once, trashing a control arm & slightly creasing a guard), but all my mates did something, and it wasn't always their fault. You're just a magnet for shit-happening at that age!
  12. +1 on the visual inspection, but they are mighty heavy to push The additional resistance of the transfer case etc. makes a difference!
  13. Is that VL-turbo factoryish, or rare-as SVD test-mule factoryish? (And an Aussie GTS will never have IRS) That a pretty special machine, and deserves to be treated with care!
  14. Well, if it fits the FJ20 correctly (rotational alignment), then it will be an FJ20 box (!) Yes, that's a FS5W71B - but the turbo's has bigger gears, and there are a multitude of gearsets that could be in the box and still fall under the factory designation (Floor-shift, 5-speed, wide-ratio, '71B' model). Depending on what you plan for it, it will probably be plenty strong enough. It's only the last 15 years that people have been able to fit the FS5W71C from the RB20DET behind the FJ. All the old-school L31's & FJ turbo's ran with this basic box, and they can be fitted with Hollinger gears if required.
  15. From memory there are 2 things that made changing out the rear struts in the R30 difficult; 1. not damaging the parcel shelf (remove the rear seat, and the c-pillar trim) 2. Getting a good grip on the nuts (on the top mount!) - they were tight, and had a shallow hex. So they were hard to keep a socket aligned well. The DR30 was easier than the MR, as it has inspection covers above the upper mount for the electrics to hide under.
  16. Sorry guys; the answer you both seek is here.
  17. I'm running an in-line sender on my Z - the sandwich plate I have is purely there for cooling fittings, not a temp probe. If you do fit a cooler, be sure to fit a thermostat that allows core bypass (but doesn't enforce it) when the oil is cold. The oil should run warmer than the coolant, and cold oil equals excessive wear. I'm not sure if the remote filter mounts have a fitting that can be used for a temp probe or not.
  18. Try the late 1960's - the 1969-built LHD 240Z had the 3N71A, the 3N71B/4N71B was used from 1970 through to 1988(ish) in a number of Japanese makes and then the RE401-series took over until the end of the RB. I'm sure the current model is a JATCO too! PS good power Scott - considering flexible engine management is still a bit of a headache.
  19. For the sake of a few kW in a Touring Wagon, just fit a damn cat!
  20. Silver Zed - hers is a screenie of the option data for the body # you posted - hopefully you can find the translation.
  21. can fit = yes (GT-R front, GTST rear) recommended = no Go for either something local & specifically rated, or simply buy TEIN/NISMO new.
  22. I've got auto up too - Dave, you've been ripped off! The Wiki on the Stagea has a good (and surprisingly accurate!) description of the model line up.
  23. I'm about to fit a 3" R33 GT-R Nismo system to my S1 (with suitable length alterations). See my sig for the other bits - note that the dump/cat mate up just fine to the factory cat-back system.
  24. The first one is the body number, and the second is the model code. That is the EXACT information that we need in order to look up the car. Others take note! (But I'm not on a PC with FAST right now, so I can't actually look it up - I'll try to do it later on tonight)
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