BensDR30

AFAIK, the IAC is a solenoid and the AAC is a stepper motor, but I need to check my workshop manuals to be certain (it's been a long day)...

I measured the resistance between 2 equipment racks in our computer room a couple of years ago, and there was nearly 5 Ohms between them - this highlighted an earthing issue with the building wiring. This equated to a good couple of Volts, which is unacceptable when you're talking about signalling...

Righto Chris, When d'ya wanna have a look?

Personally, I would test the earthing of the vehicle and clean the factory points before purchasing any kind of 'kit'. But I'm not replying to ignite any debate over the matter, but to highlight the coolant issue mentioned earlier. (When re-wiring my Z, I did completely redo the earth wiring, running large gauge cables between the block & body, with the battery earth only going to the body). It is quite possible that if the earthing of the engine is poor, then the coolant/radiator can become a substitute path. Further to that, radiators cores have[/] failed well before their time due to the electrical flow, and subsequent corrosion (they basically become a sacrificial anode). This shouldn't occur on any rubber-mounted radiator, however! food for thought...

bugger... What boost controller & exhaust do you have?

Cross-post in the SA 'borrow' thread', and do tell what happened. Curious minds want to know!

It will start of at 0V, but build quite quickly up to around 0.1V and then steadily increase until it begins to smoothly swing between ~0.2V-0.8V regularly. If the sensor is crook, it will probably hang around at 0V for quite some time and it will effect the cold running. It may also swing erratically, and jump through 'non-consecutive' values (e.g. 0.2, 0.8, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6 0.7, 0.6, 0.5 etc) as the ECU cycles the mixtures and sit at 0V for a few seconds often. They don't last forever, and are nearly 10 years old in any RB25. Plug in a Consult system and check the values. You can also test the AAC if you have something like DataScan. The IAC is also an important player in this equation.

Check AAC, O2 & plugs - what's your economy like? That sounds like the ATTESA pump - the fuel pump isn't really audible. (which is normal on start-up)

edit never mind. Op worked it out...

I probably should ask on the importing forum, but are the mirrors still changed? There are an increasing number of Aussie-delivered cars with convex mirrors fitted both sides, so the ADR's must allow it.

pm sent regarding 'cooler

Who's got a hydraulic hand brake? Not the Stagea - that's a drum-in-hub setup.

I'm pretty happy with all the mods I've done so far (and I'm currently in the process of fitting freshly rebuilt Nismo-badged Bilstein S-Tune suspension). A few that stand out are: Master cylinder stopper - a simple, cheap, and very effective little piece of metal. Shift kit - the OEM 1-2 shift was pretty damn lengthy to say the least... IEBC - wake up that stock turbo! Rear bar upgrade - much nicer in the corners, especially high-speed sweepers on the freeway. The ECUTalk display is a really cool thing too, like a mini-Consult, with 'trip-computer' features that Nissan didn't fit to the car from the factory

The globes aren't cheap genuine, but they are available. I posted the details of the parts/prices back in '05 sometime...

June '98 R34 25GT 2-door, Auto, Colour code KV2, Model GGKAREAR34EDA-JF-- I'm afraid I can't translate the special option codes @ characters 15 & 16.

July '92 GT-R, Colour Code 326, Model KBNR32RXFSAA

Sept '92 GT-R, Colour Code 326, Model KBNR32RXFSAA

I must respond The brakes are as-per C34 Laurel Sedan, but I agree that with the wagon platform, they should be bigger. The Series 1 has an oil cooler (adjacent the filter), doesn't the series 2 have the same setup? And, The S1 trans cooler is a bit piss-weak, but I'm sure it's fine in Japan

Already mentioned, but: +1 on the window controls +1 on the door rust +1 on the dimmer (or lack thereof) +1 on the oil-filter location (and subsequent farkin mess...) The biggest problem is that Nissan never imported them here, so we've all had to wait 5+ years to get hold of one...

The Toughbook CF-18 is nearly $6kAUD by itself. That package is a bit too rich for the privateer though... All UDM cars have been mandated for OBDII since around 2002 I think, and most are now CANbus. KWP is fairly popular in JDM cars, but don't hold your breath about compatibility. For example, my inlaws' MY99 Forester GT has the OBDII connector - and doesn't talk any languages except genuine Subaru.

They're fair numbers, I wouldn't be too concerned about the compression. I would pay to investigate the idle irregularity a little more, however. If you can get hold of some kind of Consult interface system, you can do an ECU controlled power-balance test. LOL Iain - I'm glad I've never tried to do one of your 'wet' compression tests!

True, but IDGAF about economy in the dunnydore - it's a state fleet car and I'm just happy if it continues to function... It looks like I'll be getting a Captiva TD sometime later this year, hopefully it's a nicer drive, but it is a GM Daewoo so I'm not holding my breath!

Ha! I drive a VZ wagon every day, and the C34 feels like it's 10 years younger than the Commodore - not the other way around... With the ECUTalk computer fitted, both instantaneous & trip-average consumption is displayed and it's amazing how much it varies during a commute. I drove from one end of Adelaide to the other (Outer Harbour to Noarlunga) late Saturday night, and averaged just over 11L/100km. But if I drive a 15km trip is daytime traffic, it will average more like 15L/100. I don't even want to talk about how high it reads when going up a slight incline... I haven't really checked for certain, but I've got a hunch that the car uses slightly less fuel when you accelerate from a standstill using some boost - it's running a higher VE and spending less time under throttle than if you 'baby' it up to speed. (and it feels muuuch better!)

Fair call - I didn't know if the spring would hold it closed or not. But the point about keeping one in use remains!

An even cheaper way (have you seen the price of coke?) would be to disconnect the vacuum line from the BOV itself. Buy I do not really recommend it - The factory didn't put them in for the sake of it, the pressure reversion isn't healthy for the turbos wellbeing.