BensDR30

+1 Not that I've crashed mine (and don't intend to!), but I'll be damned if I'm going to reduce the safety of my wagon. See if you can get a momo airbag wheel, that should help with your style factor while keeping the car legal. PS, that ebay wheel is from an S2, not a '96...

Yes you can look them up - since they're fully imported. Things like the ADM R31 aren't in FAST.

Except the 180B used an R160...

4.9??? That sounds like a NISMO ratio or the front diff from a 720 4x4 (or were they 5.1's??) L28 with triples - go for a 3.9 or maybe a 4.1 (3.7 would probably be a bit too tall - 3.54 was too tall for my old L28ET MR30, but man it had some legs!) I'd expect that a 3.9 would be the standard ratio for the C210 anyway (it was on the MR30)

As myRB25DETT said; The consensus is that any more than 1-bar is risking destruction due to over-speeding the ceramic turbine, causing either separation from the steel shaft, or the blades to break. (and bear in mind that 14psi @ the manifold is close to 17psi @ the compressor if you're still using the stock SMIC) To double-clarify the construction of your snail: - nylon compressor, steel shaft, ceramic composite turbine. I've heard that replacing the nylon compressor with an alloy one is a sensible thing to do as the nylon blades have a tendency to flex, and eventually break at raised boost levels. So... Keep the boost sensible, and the stock unit will last fine. If you want 'more' then an upgrade is desired (or be prepared to replace the stock unit every time you blow it up). My 2.5c worth (the aussie dollar is pretty good right now...)

To my knowledge, ADM-specific models were all covered by hard-copy parts manuals.

Sorry to hear that Ruby. BTW I'm not fussed which time I get, I should be there at around 0830 so I can go first if you like.

Hence why in SA, the best way to go about it is our 'personalised' plates for a one-off fee, or a re-issue 'R&S' plate e.g STG-034. The custom plates attract a periodic fee, and I too cannot justify such things!

FYI the same 100mm spacing applies to OEM DR30 struts.

Assuming you were being serious: Yes we do - they're called Natrad http://www.natrad.com.au Assuming you were being a smart arse: Smart arse...

Damn straight - I secured them in 2004

Sold. (you have PM)

Double check your codes and if possible the AFM voltages via Consult. You don't want to buy one if it turns out yours isn't shagged...

Speak to Brett West at APE regarding LPG - he's done plenty of fancy stuff. But on another note, Sky084 is running an old GasREsearch mixer setup on his L24-powered MR30 (tuned by John @ Southern Hitech Dyno), and last run was 206rwkw @14psi boost. I drove the car to the SAU:SA dinner, and let me tell you now it has a Haltech E6A controlling ignition, it's smooth and PLENTY powerful!

I've only used APE (aka Graham West Workshops) to do work on one of my cars. I had the Stagea dynoed to map in my Jaycar IEBC & DFA. IMHO Brett West is an intelligent and easy to speak to person, who will talk technical to you if you want him to, and be frank about your expectations. He runs a very high duty-cycle on his dyno (i.e. it's in use nearly all day, every day) and he works with all kinds of management systems. His current ECU of choice is the Vipec - which appears to be a very capable unit (I may fit one to my Z if I can sell my MoTec M48). He is professional, and competent - I know for a fact that you could do much worse (I have seen some very ordinary mapping and shoddy workmanship over the years - but thankfully not on my cars!) What are you looking at doing?

Please explain 'over it' because that sounds like a pretty nice ride - and powerful enough to be fun. And are you sure it's a P90a? - that's the hydraulic head, and VERY rare in Aus.

FYI a code 55 is no errors. Hook up a reliable boost gauge and do some tests. A cat-back will not affect the boost by very much at all - the wastegate will still open at the nominal pressure, but the turbo may reach that pressure sooner, and maintain it longer. DO NOT just bypass the boost solenoid (if present), because you will overspeed the turbo, and risk detonation (destruction!?). The '10 minute boost mod' is the safest boost upgrade available for the dual-stage vehicles. A Jaycar IEBC or PROFEC is the go for mappable boost control. But GO EASY, and get the wellbeing of the car monitored via Wideband O2. And since we're talking about an S2 RSFS, getting a NisTune is your best programmable ECU bang-for-buck.

The Chef has the gospel - that VIN is genuine Autech. She's just a poor bastardised Autech, and an expensive one at that!

RAWS & SEVS are 2 complementing things, not different methods for import. But yes, cars are out there with no plates - my DR30 was one of them. It was imported under the 15-year rule back in 2001, and about 18 months ago I received an SA Compliance Plate (sticker) that had to be affixed to the drivers door jamb, or rear firewall. (SA legislation required a 'domestic' plate on all vehicles, so they had to retro-fit non RAWS imports) The OP's car may be in the same boat, but import approval paperwork will certainly ease the red-tape pain...

damn straight - bite his ankles and run!

I might head up for a look-see. I do appreciate the old 'R' series Mazdas.

June 1990 GT-R KH2 KBNR32RXFSLMZG

VIN: KRCR32RGFSLMHC Production: June' 89 Colour: AH3 HICAS Type-M

Sky084 is my +1

Graham... VIN: VVRWRTAR50UDAE---- Prod: Feb 1997 Colour: QM1 Engine: QD32TI, auto.