BensDR30

I guess I've been 'followed' for a while a couple of times when driving the DR - probably because it kind of stands out, and is louder than the average (but not illegally so). I've never actually been pulled over in the last 15 years for a 'check' (perhaps because they pull up my record on the vehicle MDT and see nothing of any concern?). I've been through plenty of RBT's in the DR & the Z with no dramas and the Stagea is a non-issue I think I got more attention driving my dad's 1600 (FJ powered) than any of my cars... (hmmm, is there a stereotype there?) But to answer the OP's question; probably, but with good cause for the most part.

More important than the photo would be looking at the factory build plate rather than the Australian compliance plate. Remember, the FAST system is a Nissan product and has absolutely nothing to do with the local bureaucracy. But in your case, you might want to look your car up on the RAWS site to see what that says too.

This should be a non-issue as the handbrake mechanism is the same for both cars - it's just the lever that differs. Correct Quite possibly an issue - it certainly was when I upgraded from 2-spots to 4-spots on my Z...

This should be clearly answered in the Stage Brakes thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...kes-t82083.html but make sure you read it from the start, it gets a little untidy as time goes on! Having said that, OEM rotors are available for the S1, as are import Dixcel etc (from your favourite Yahoo! broker - e.g. Import Monster). OEM should cost a little over $150 each (43206-4P000). It was a 4-day turnaround when I ordered mine.

I agree, although the part numbers aren't common, I'll bet that there are several that are interchangeable. Further research is definitely required.

S-Tune springs & shocks (freshly reconditioned) and the bigger rear bar has made a big difference to my wagon. But I'm sure with brand new factory shocks it wouldn't be too shabby either...

Righto, here's the deal with the subframe assembly: (Member Assy-Rear Suspension) The S1 RSFV (as per my car) uses part 55400-0V000, which it common for a whole heap of WC34 models, including the 2WD turbo S2 The S2 RSFS (as per your car) uses part 55400-0V700, which is common for nothing else... R33 (1997 onwards) & S1 R34 2.5t manuals use the same part - 55400-21U01 ®S13 turbo's (both CA & SR) use 55400-52F01 So that didn't help much BUT... I can't see why you can't weld some reinforcing plates in & fix you frame. Tearing the welded nuts off isn't a new problem - the 240Z was (in)famous for breaking front sway-bar mount welds if you upgraded the bar too much!

If you like, post up your chassis number & we can x-reference the sub-frame part to see what other cars use the same part.

TBH, I'm not sure who's at fault the most here - the importer who should have known better, or the end customer who really should have done a bit more homework on 'what' S1 Stageas are allowed. It's quite clear on the SEVS listing (http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/031-02.htm) what models are eligible, and it's not hard to find out that the RSFS wasn't around for the S1. I'm sorry for your predicament, but I wouldn't be surprised if this turns story finishes with an unhappy ending... PS The yellow S2 Nisswreck has is a 2WD auto, and the engine/box had already been removed.

That's what FAST does with the 'Model Code' - see earlier posts on how it all works.

You have to love the original HICAS implementation in the R31's - it had a couple of rams and flexed the entire K-frame on it's bushes! 4WS seems to have dropped off the radar these days, possibly due to it's mechanical complexity vs. what you can to with ESP and it's broader safety benefits.

July '87 GTS, 5-speed (but you worked most of that out from the plate!) No colour data available. 2-speaker stereo (I think), HICAS, LSD, 205/50/15 tyres... All standard issue really For the early stuff you need the full model code as opposed to just the VIN as FAST doesn't have the data to correlate VIN to options - your picture supplied all the relevant info.

Mine was shite today too - and I was watching the Consult data when I started it to see what was going on. The AAC went to 99 (full open) during cranking and below normal idle, but it wasn't enough... I started the car again and noticed that even once it did flare it was only at ~1100rpm, so I'm leaning towards the air regulator being partially closed (AAC kept it going at a value of 80 the 2nd time). So the next time I'm feeling like hurting my hands and lamenting how easy it would be to remove with the engine out, I'll try to test & clean it!

Only too happy to help - and wouldn't you know it; After flushing the coolant and replacing the thermostat tonight (preventative maintenance), my car ran slow and stalled on the first start... The second attempt was a slow runner too, but it picked up. Jinxed!

Josh, While you are a new forum member and keen to ask lots of questions, you should spend some time looking at the 'sticky' threads and doing some searches. EBC's and turbo upgrades have been covered a number of times in the Stagea section alone (not to mention the main 'Skyline' or 'Forced Induction' areas). Have a look around and then ask away - we're willing to help out, but we appreciate those who show initiative.

righto, spill the beans - why are you selling?

Check out the dyno results thread - there is a wealth of info there regarding what provides what.

Full GT-R running gear; engine, gearbox, rear cradle, Brembo's, 3-gauge cluster, and body tweaks by Autech. There are a few '260RS lookalikes' out there that are non-Autech conversions. Note that all genuine 260RS' were WGNC34 RSfours that have been modified - they are body plated as being an Automatic RB25DET. There are usually a couple for sale at about $25-$30KAUD

LOL, that's just quote worthy...

Fair enough - I'm without technical resources right now (I expected the air con to be the only situation, but couldn't be sure) An Air-reg is certainly shown on that diagram, and they are there only for cold running - I thought that the AAC/IACV had completely replaced that function, but it seems it's still used on some '25's at least... If your air-reg is crook (jammed closed), then you won't get a fast cold idle, declining over time as the bimetallic strip closes the port. If it's jammed open, then the idle will be too damn fast when warm. I'm considering disconnecting the Air-reg heater on my FJ, as the idle drops of a little too fast when it's stone cold.

lol! I haven't checked in FAST, but I am assuming that the solenoide adjacent the AAC/IACV is some kind of FICD? If so, that may be worth checking too, as it may be active during cranking. When my S1 was acting in a similar manner (including the idle dropping right off when slowing to a stop - even on a hot engine) I looked at 3 things; The O2 (which was known as dodgy, and replaced) The plugs (which were 'compliance' Autolite and replaced with NGK Platinums) The AAC (but I only removed the control motor from the housing via the 2 screws & gave it a wipe over) The symptoms of a slow cold idle, flaky hot idle, and occasional cold stall were cured. In the last couple of weeks I have had a momentary slow cold idle occur once or twice - but that could be due to me letting go of the key a fraction too early. I may check the AAC to see if it has gummed up, but can confirm that it is providing a wide range of engine speeds via testing through Consult control (the opening can be manually set in DataScan). PS Chris, I'll probably only work a 1/2 day tomorrow, so should be around in the arvo if you want to look at your car then.

I'm probably available Thursday night, but won't be leaving work until after 5. Saturday would be a better bet if you want to run some diags.

They are the same thing: The 260RS is the 'Autech Version' and vice-versa

Oooh, new SEVS search: http://www.raws.com.au/SEVSRuling.asp?RulingID=031 but more importantly, the 25G is not eligible under SEVS, so is it a private import?