BensDR30

http://www.nistune.com/workshops.htm

True, I forgot about that bit... And they're always looking to re-structure their fees to squeeze that little bit more out of everyone.

Oh well, it looks like you got the extra $10 out of me then.

PM sent

Quite possibly, but I'd be devoting some time to the second-hand market unless you're desperate! Import Monster would be somewhere to keep an eye on.

baaah! Where'a an AWD dyno graph?

If the M35 net is the same 'style' as the C34 one, it'll be a right pain to emulate 100% There are telescopic sections, reinforcing straps, plastic-coated stainless braid, adjustment points, and retaining collars... I'm not saying that some kind of 'equivalent' couldn't be made, but you'll be fighting a real battle to mimic all the features of the factory one.

Well since your car is a manual, you won't have to worry about a shift-kit or bigger trans cooler... You will probably want to upgrade the springs and shocks at some stage, but apart from that it should be a non-issue. Perhaps except some slightly 'tougher' brake pads?

It sounds like your rebuilt RB30 starter isn't much better than the broken RB25 starter you originally had... You can try bypassing the vehicle electrics & energising the solenoid directly from the battery - this will confirm starter function. If that's a no-go then the starter is the fault. If it works fine (and consistently) then the ignition barrel or wiring could be the issue. Please make sure the car is in park/neutral & the handbrake is on before testing the starter - I don't want to hear about it if you run over your foot...

It's the intake (vent) for the PCV system. If it's leaking then the car will be using un-metered air, and running like crap. Grab a new one from your local dealer - I can't FAST it right now as I'm at work, but it won't be too hard for them to find...

The S1/S2 net is over $400 new - I had to buy one just when there were none being sold 2nd hand....

Awww crap - you buggers have already bought the bit's I'm after.... (suspension & exhaust) (that'll teach me to not read my daily e-mail notifications)

And it gets worse: Safety belt pre-tensioners? 3-speed auto with boost control? Upper control arm bushes? (So that's what's wrong with my R30's - the upper bushes are shot!) Oh dear.....

If you're serious about not modifying the car much, then a rebuild of what you've got would be the cheapest 'new' option. Speak to Bill @ ATS on Marion Road for a quote

I would say that there is certainly a chance that the rear turbo needs a new compressor seal - Adam might be well advised to have them both rebuilt while they're off...

It sounds like they've been removed before. Although the factory bolts aren't usually super tight after 10+ years, they don't have a habit of falling out... Glad you found the issue - you'll be amazed how quiet the engine will be once you've fixed it!

I can't answer your question as to which aftermarket pack is best (Performance-wise also have 'Yellow Jacket' coils available - they could be another option), but the question begs asking - why do you want to replace what you've got? Do you have a confirmed fault, or have you been drawn into the false belief that the factory coils are no good? Curious minds want to know...

C'mon ppl - these Tubro Time's are a super rare thing (every Tubro should have one) Sorry I couldn't help myself... (hey it was a laff & a free bump - everyone's happy!)

Do a couple more posts and let me know via PM when you're heading past Old Noarlunga next - we'll plug the laptop in & see if there's anything obvious going on. (and eyeball the engine bay - you never know what might show up)

I'm down in the deep south - but I'm sure we can work something out.

Did you do any measurements with just the front muffler removed?

Which part of Adelaide are you located? There are a few potential causes - all pretty simple (some mentioned already), so it might pay to hook up with another owner who can offer advice. I have access to factory diagnostic tools if you suspect a dud sensor. It will also pay to check the type of plugs installed - some compliance parts are 'average' to say the least...

I spoke with a couple of friends at AJD regarding your exhaust leak issue, and the new wasn't good! From a labour perspective, it seems that getting to the rear turbo means pretty much removing the front one. However, removing the intake & shielding should help reveal the source of the leak - they will squeal like crazy on the intake side of the turbine, from memory your car sounded more like a head/manifold leak (i.e. a tractor) Keep us posted Adam...

Lol (Yes, what non-German euro isn't a FIAT these days?)

All the tyre/wheel issues aside - it looks to be a pretty neat package, but I have to ask in regard to the first dyno graph, what's with the AFR's? It dips well into the 10's for a while there. To me that seems to be dumping fuel in for intercooling effect (preventing the pistons from getting 'religious'), where less timing (or preferably less boost) would be better for everything involved (including power & torque). Can you provide any more info on that run, or is that tune now history with something 'happier' taking it's place?