BensDR30

Plain, Ghetto, or just plain dirty & in need of a wash...

Ha!, the 3N71B is found in '70's Mazdas, Toyotas & Nissans. I think it made it's first appearance in 1970 & was used right up until the mid 80's before it was replaced by the 4N71B. Then came the RE401 series... Tiptronic would be an interesting feature!

FWIW the old Jatco 3N71B was very sensitive to fluid level, only 500ml (to bring it up to mid/top on the dipstick) would be the difference between intermittent drive & 100% ok. Even the fluid lost while changing over the cooler (not that much) would be enough to make the box misbehave without a top-up.

Are you trying to cause my 6-month old daughter to vomit on the cruise?

HOW DARE YOU! They are a smart man's Volvo, some of us paid a lot of money for our Stag's! (And yes, I do also drive a Commodore wagon, only beacaue the State Government doesn't have anything decent on their fleet list... Let me tell you, I'd much rather be in the RSFV than the VZ wagon; any day of the week!)

The O2 sensor is located just behind the turbo. It's not a big job, 22mm open-ender (or vise grips) to get the original one out. That bit can take a while, but fitting a new one is only a 5-minute job. There are threads detailing the replacement, but it's a pretty simple task.

Rather than trying to explain how it all works, have a look here; http://www.blazt.biz/products/datascan.php

I second the request for S1/S2 oem-replacement front & rear shocks (non-adjustable is fine by me, perhaps with some slightly lower springs - Nissan 'S-tune' style, but with a slightly more KYB-esque price!). There are a large number of cars approaching the due date for a shock refresh, and not everyone can justify the Bilstein/TEIN route.

I have access to Nissan Data Scan and live nearby. If you're interested we can plug it in & see what comes up after a datalog.

The agreed value on mine has dropped since it was first insured in '04 (see page 1 of this thread). The premium is now about $600, value is now about $14k (which is still a good price for an S1 with 110k on the clock). I'm 32 on rating 1 and get the multi-car discount with Shannons (we have the Z, 1200 ute, Skyline, house & contents insured through them - gotta love the enthusiast cover for parts/tools).

My 240Z round-tops weren't a problem to keep in reasonable tune - I generally gave the idle & mixtures a tweak at each service. Having said that, I was determined to run EFI, and 18 months after buying the car, I had aftermarket EFI & a TO4 doing the deed...

Quick question - do any of these non-oem replacement screens have the de-icer in them? My S1 has a couple of small chips that could almost warrant a claim on my insurance, but the de-icer is my main concern with aftermarket...

Nice ride, but is that a SSS 180B in your garage?

Sorry to hear about your RB woes. BUT, it sounds like you're fixing it the right way. Hylomar = goodness, I don't build engines without it.

Don't you mean '2' standard ones? The fronts are twin-sliding aren't they? (It's late & I can't remember...)

Yup - nothing sold here in Aus... I posted the part number earlier in this thread (43206-4P000). The only car that comes close in an R34GT, but I don't think you'll find any of those around.

She's a poverty-pack, no air, no steer. But that does make her a lightweight... (Most GT's I've seen have been ES or EX, but not this one!)

Car is sitting in the sun, engine is turned off, fuel in tank heats up, fuel in tank expands, carbon canister absorbs vapours into activated charcoal, engine is started, engine is run & develops high vacuum, 'purge' line is opened to the activated charcoal, fresh air is drawn through canister into the engine, engine burns fumes, fuel tank doesn't burst open making a big mess.

Welcome to the club. I've had my '96 RSFV for just over 4-years/60000km now, and it's been the most useful car I've owned. The perfect family car, a nice cruiser, and plenty fast enough for the most part. I too planned on leaving it stock, (which I also intended to do with the DR30, and the Z - but they're both another story...) but then the transmission cooler topic came up, and then the R34 intercooler topic came up, then the JJR dump pipe topic came up. Is there a pattern forming? But seriously, you will find it a lovely car to drive. And if you do feel like expensing some 'promotional' parts for the business, you'll certainly be able to wake it up into something much more than it's appearance would lead you to believe.

Looking in FAST, only the S1 from August 1997 could be optioned with an LSD (Model character 18; C, E, F or G). Not knowing Japanese, I can't really tell what most of the options are...

I'm using the 5's, and I think that they're still gapped at 1.1 (installed early 2005, not touched in the 45000km since) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4401024

NGK Laser Platinum PFR5G-11 The only other thing I changed at the same time as fitting the new plugs was the O2 sensor - it was confirmed as being stuffed by the 12:1 idle mixture... That might be worth a look too.

Ouchy... Thankfully (for you) the impact doesn't look like it was too great. If there's one driving trait that I'm starting to notice more around here, it's blind lane changing. Usually by people who get upset at you for being in their way!

No LSD in my RS4V. But does the fact that I've got a 4.375 R200 LSD in my DR30 and a 3.90 R200 LSD in my Z make up for it?

Had I seen your thread earlier, I would have suggested the plugs. The crap that was fitted to my C34 for compliance (Autolites) made my car start & idle slow (occasionally stalling just after startup), and the idle would also sometimes drop off when slowing to a stop. I cleaned the AAC (which was spotless) without improvement. Changing the plugs to good-ol NGK (I spent up big & got the platinum - copper plugs weren't on the list where I bought them from at the time) fixed the problem 100% and it hasn't misbehaved in the 4 years since.