BensDR30

Using the wrong (or mixing incompatible) fluid(s) can damage seals in the MC and calipers. I would suggest that you use the correct fluid rating for your car (DOT4, I would expect) - perhaps even get whatever the dealerships use (Castrol? Lucas? who knows), and flush your system until no trace of the original fluid colour is visible. Then again, at this point, it might be a good idea to get your local brake shop to do this work - it can be messy & they would have access to power-bleeders & cleaning solutions.

That doesn't ring any bells with me. Are you sure you're not getting confused with the x-flow 'LY' head that was run as the first Nissan EFI rally as the LY25 in a Z? Here's a photo of a TT TC24-headed engine (from a long time ago...)

Glad that you've resolved the fan issue - simply seeing that the fan stopped with the engine was enough to tell that the hub was stuffed. FWIW the fan doesn't spin at full engine speed - it's designed to turn at (from memory) 2000-3000rpm for maximum cfm efficiency (when hot). Regarding the boost issue, take the heat shield off the turbine (5x10mm bolts) & see what's happening with the actuator, it's worth assessing if it's seized or not. Curious that you've experienced the boost issue along with the brakes - the inconsistency is that if you've split a line, or the master-vac is buggered, you should have a hard pedal not soft...

Nar, too late Once you remove the Turbo heat shield, you can get to the actuator/rod. From there you should be able to move it by hand (it will be stiff, but you should get a pretty good idea if it's seized or not.)

Thanks to SLY-L20 I have the parts I need. Thanks to those that got back to me.

Upon an external observation, the one on the right is a far superior to the one on the left. A design with more short tubes is much better flowing than a design with less longer tubes. If the materials & construction of the one on the right are decent, then it will probably be more efficient than the 'conventional' 600x300x75 X-flow aftermarket intercooler. Not to mention easier to install, smaller & lighter. *edit* Upon closer observation, the one on the left is pretty much the worst kind of design you could use. It would have very high internal pressure losses, and fairly average flow.

The increased performance provided by reducing the gasket from 7.1cc's to 5.7cc's (standard vs. Felpro/HKS 1mm) could be far outweighed by the cost of getting hold of one! You'll probably get more performance from the car by removing the spare tyre. Just my 2c worth...

Yer, it sounds a bit raw!

Note that the filters are not present on the Series 1 cars (see applicable date of '9708' for both the filters and the sticker):

Interested in a manifold - but would like to inspect before buying (mine is cracked) PM me with some contact details. *edit* Just re-read your original post with & saw your mobile number... I'll sms you shortly.

I don't recall the RMR30 having an electric fan for the radiator, only the A/C... If so, I suggest you check the temperature of the radiator vs the lower thermostat housing - if there is a large difference, then you could have a jammed thermostat. Or, all other potential cooling system issues aside, the gauge sensor could be crook. They are only around $20 from memory, but can be a bugger to remove due to corrosion.

It's happened to me twice (once on my old MR & once on the DR) - both times after washing the engine bay a little too vigorously... (you'd think I would have learnt after the first time)

Excuse the OT... When we last met at Wakefield Park the Stagea was 'something different' - now it's the family car! (yes we are married, with child)

Too true Dennis! Something a bit more 'down-to earth' would be buying an import sedan - they can be had with L20ET, FJ20E and FJ20ET auto or manual and come with the aforementioned wiper (what more could you want?!?!)

Standard L-blocks don't jump timing teeth until way beyond the far-side of 8000rpm. Might I suggest that you may have a chain guide or tensioner issue? Aside from this, a rev-limiter is a wonderful invention...

That will be the bulb-check relay turning on, due to a charging fault. That relay gets it's earth via the alternator, so once it starts charging, the earth is lost. If you get a 'xmas-tree' on the dash with the engine running, you can consider that it's kind of a BIG charge light!

A new one is $600, I'm in two minds as to whether I go for a second hand one (which may crack after 5 minutes), get mine re-welded or go new. I have had success with cast-welding before, but not right in the middle of a turbo manifold. I expect that after welding & machining both mounting surfaces (assuming it's fairly flat to start with), I will have spent a couple of hundred $. I'm not sure it;''s worth the risk. It only cost me $440 for a brand new L-series turbo manifold in August... Bloody exchange rate! I think I'll order all my new studs/nuts & gaskets and ponder the manifold situation for a little longer.

snap... I've just bit the bullet & started working on the rear stud replacement. Unfortunately after removing the main shield, I've found a 40mm long crack just in front of the turbo flange. So it looks like I'm up for a new manifold.

Looking for uncracked RB25DET manifold to replace mine, which is cracked...

Did the manifold go with the turbo?

pm sent

A quick recap - factory part numbers & $ for S1 RS4V rear discs & both sets of pads are posted earlier in this thread.

FWIW The E6A works with the FJ20ET in distributed mode with no modifications required. Regarding your bumpers, perhaps colour-coding isn't the best idea, but you should get them painted - even black would improve the look of the car. My car is the original colour, but the bumper & mouldings were painted the dark metallic blue when the car was resprayed - and it makes a difference.

That may be so (I have seen some pretty powerful Famillia's - considering the engine size), but don't expect the gearbox to last very long at those power levels! Being a Mazda engine, even in the late 80's they were still using Vane AFM's. An aftermarket tuned computer with a slightly larger turbo & decent breathing mods would be a nice little setup.

Put us down as a maybe - it depends on how the new bubs is going!