BensDR30

That's because you're missing the all-important schtickers on the flanks! Actually, that doesn't seem to make a rats arse of difference..... Do you see a '24v Ceramic Turbo' badge on my car? No? Then it's not a bloody R31 :wassup:

Get some 'freeze' spray (used for the treatment of sprains without ice) & the next time the car dies, give the CAS/dizzy a good dose. If the problem is corrected, then the CAS is the problem. This is a typical RB30E problem. My parents' VL has had 3 CAS die in the same way over the last 14 years. Joint = solder joint. Bad connection on the ECU circuit board.

Mine is constantly identified as 'one of those 6 cylinder Nissan import coupes' Then I tell them it's a 4; 'they never made them as fours' is the response. *sigh*

R30 IRS = yaay! Recirculating-ball steering = boo! They will handle - eventually, but you're probably better off getting a non-compliable R32 GTSt. Better designed brakes, suspension, steering and cheap as chips to buy.

My old MR30 used to get around 400km/tank when it was fitted with an L28ET & aftermarket ECU (filling up at 1 needle-width below the 'E' mark on the gauge). That was no worse than when it was stock with the L24E. There are actually 3 coolant temperature 'sensors' fitted to the L24E lower thermo housing: Coolant gauge ECU Thermotime (which is just a switch). If you're concerned about economy, you need to do the basics - vacuum leaks & timing. Then when you're confident that these 2 things are sorted, check the mixtures throughout out the load/rpm range. You may find leaky/dirty injectors, a leaky cold-start valve, blocked exhaust or a dozen other potential problems.

And a horrible variant of HICAS it was too. Twisting the entire rear crossmember on it's mounting points, yuck! (Not that I can think of a better way to do 4WS on a semi-trailing arm rear end....)

All Nismo RB26DETT pumps are rated at 4.6L/min at 3 Bar. I believe that this is 125% of the OEM output (ie the original pumps are rated at 3.68L/min at the same pressure). Bearing in mind that I can't read Japanese.... Part numbers for the Nismo pumps are as follows: BNR32 17042-RR581 BNCR33 17042-RR596 BNR34 17042-RRR46 WC34 17042-RR581 FYI the Nismo pumps for the RB25DET (inc. NEO) are rated at 4.1L/min at 3 bar (175% of OEM).

Saw a green one driving towards the city on Anzac Hwy on xmas day. I suspect that it's the old Viper Motorsport car.

Your local dealer - about $30 each. DON'T damage the metal strip that they attach to - as it's only available as part of the window, and the window is NLA....

I respectfully disagree, The L28 was available in at least 3 different models in Australia - 280ZX, 280C & the Patrol. The LD28 was not released on the Australian market at all. The LD28 block is also a mid-height block (same as L20b), which could make fitting an issue. the L20A/24/26/28 & L13/14/16/18 are all 'short' blocks, while some of the Z blocks are taller again. A mildly-prepped L28ET (custom, or factory) will turn 300HP on standard internals with good tuning. The LD28-crank option is a bit of a mixed blessing. It gives you the potential to go out to nearly 3.2L, with lots of low-down torque, and a healthy power output. But this is at the expense of rod/stroke ratio and total rpms. Balancing is also critical on a stroker. Ideally you need to use L14 rods (which are longer than L24) and a very short skirt piston in order to make the best of the combination. I considered buiding my twin-turbo L28 as a 3L stroker, but have decided that block rigidity & ease of construction were more important than an extra 200cc's. My LD28 crank will therefore stay in the shed... I've also considered building a very over-square engine by mating an L20A crank to an L28 bottom end. I'm sure I could crack 10,000rpm if I tried hard enough!

It's interesting that you have a 4.3 front diff, what does your build plate say for the final drive ratio? (it will be 'RC xx')

Here's a shot of my old MR30 with JDM 'tinted' lights fitted: http://www.versadev.com/ben/images/2001/MR30_Rear.jpg I bought these from City Dismantlers here in Adelaide many years ago. I think they've still got a few sets. My DR30 cam with lighter tint on the lens. I've since changed them with the set that were in my MR as they were in better condition (and suit the red paintwork better!).

Spot on. and No problem!

Run the car at night, in darkness & see if there is arcing between the leads. My MR30 had a visible glow all the way along the original plugleads. Also check the coil for leaks (it's oil-filled), if it's leaking then it's stuffed.... Synthetic is fantastic (I don't use anything else - in my engines, manual tranmissions or diffs), but if your seals are on the way out already, the superior detergent qualities of synthetic blends may make the leak worse.

The dinger got the arse in my car - sitting with the cruise control at 110km/h was unbrearable!

4-speed auto: No problem, fit an RB bellhousing & you're done. Power steering: From memory the R30 uses the same line pressures as the R31, so as long as you use a Skyline donor engine, you should be right (not that you'd even consider using an engine with 'Holden' embossed on the rocker cover!)

Bring it on!!!!

The build plate on my RS4V states a final drive of RC 40, which tells me it's an R200 @ 4.083:1. This data corresponds to what is printed on page 108 or the 2003 Nismo catalogue: WGNC34 4WD ~'98/8; RB25DET R200 (or R200V), 4.083:1 RB26DETT R200 4.111:1 from Aug 98 onwards; RB25DET M/T R200V 4.111:1 RB25DET A/T R200 (or R200V) 4.083:1 RB26DETT R200 4.111:1 The shortest diff available was in the 4WD RB25DE '98/8~ at 4.363:1 The R32/33 GT-R's are listed at 4.111:1, while the R34 is a 3.545:1 !!!

Mine came with one - which sounds like the exception!

The 'cheap' upgrade I read about was to fit the 25GTT cooler as it was a better design than the GTS25T unit. FYI, the Trust webby with all the models available is: http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...cooler_kit.html

Now THAT sounds like a plan. I'm interested in anyone that has a lead on one of these units. Based on the Trust website, there is no specific Stagea cooler, but there are genuine replacements for the R33 & 34. I was under the impression that the C34 intercooler mounting is the same as R34. Can anyone clarify that?

Hey my DR has more creature comforts than my Stagea; pneumatic seats, convex passenger mirror, cruise control. But then again, it's not as friendly on passenger comfort when it starts to pull at 3500rpm all the way to 7500!

Hey the auto's not too bad! yours is a 4-speed too, which means that the tunnel is effectively larger than the 3-speed or manuals. (the bodyshell is the same, there's a section removed to allow the larger 4-speed ato to fit - did it to my ol MR30). The steering boxes are not too flash in their precision. Once you've checked the idler, drag link & pitman arm you can try tighening up the preload, but to it by the book or you'll bind up the gears. Fitting JDM lights is pretty easy - the sockets may be different (they are on the early MR's), but since yours is a series 2 I epxect that they will go stright in with zero mods. The rear main sounds leaky (not uncommon for a 20 year old datto!). It can be replaced without pulling the engine, but I'd suggest trying a slightly heavier oil to see if that helps. It looks real neat inside & out. Original carpets too.

The FJ20 isn't too bad cost wise to rebuild. I think I paid about $300 for a full gasket set (genuine). Bearings add about another $150, chains/tensioners about $350, then there's machine work....

Atmos were 4.11's, Turbos - 3.90. At least in the DR-family.....