BensDR30

Most Stagea RS4's have open-wheelers, the R200V was optional. Interesting how the driveline is smaller than the GT-R. One wonders if it is the same as an R32 GTS4?

The Velleman unit from Jaycar (plus soft case.). I've used one of these at work, and it's more than adequate for 'hobby 'use: http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QC1916

This reply is just a little late.... If it had SA rego, then it was mine!

Just a little OT - how responsive is the semi-auto shift logic? In my experience the Magna & BA Falcon are SLOOOWWW, please tell me the Nissan change is snappy.

Interesting you mention the closed-loop use at idle. That gives my faulty O2 sensor theory more weight, as the idle on my car would hunt (indicating non-optimal mixtures) and there was occassionally a drop in idle speed to around 500rpm & a resulting flat-spot on take-off. Now the O2 sensor has been replaced, all is VERY well in regards to the idle. It's smooth, consistent & the initial throttle response is excellent. Oh, I've bought a DFA & controller too - and grabbed myself a handheld single channel CRO. Been meaning to get one for years....

There's no doubt that the C34 looks tougher than the M35, I'll have a close look at the M35 when they get more common & then decide if I'll trade-up....

As mentioned earlier - you can get generic aftermarket sensors for around $100, bearing in mind that you'll have to check the factory pinouts & re-terminate the connector (no big deal, but worth mentioning as there are people who are not comfortable with fiddling with electrics) The Nissan number is: 22690-83T13 and was ex-Melb (plenty in stock). An interesting point was that the dyno workshop metioned that it was quite common for them to replace sensors in the CA/SR/RB engines, as a large % of them appeared to be faulty by the time the cars were complied & on the road here in Aus.

Looks mech to me, but the photo isn't all that clear.

Mine will owe me just over $250-delivered from Japan via the Yahoo! auctions.

Reception = crap. The problem is that the Stagea runs a diversity antenna (both rear side windows) and most workshops only fit 1 band expander. As a result, thes side that has the expander fitted has a higher impedance than the OEM side, and the signal get degraded accordingly. It's really not the ideal setup for conversion. I''ve learned to live without decent FM reception & am pretty close to trial fitting some kind of splitter with the band expander. I'm not too sure what that will do to the signal strength, as it will subsequently increase the impedance of BOTH antennas.... I've also already replaced the front speaker (torn cones), and the rears are about to get done too (same story...).

***Update*** Just about finished my first tank of fuel with the new sensor. City driving, with the odd bit of 80/100km for a few km, a few hard launches - the usual stuff really. The trip meter has just ticked over 400km & the low fuel light has just started to come on. I'll fill it up tonight & do the sums. I've also removed the tank nozzle restrictor, as it wasn't sealing properly. BUT in order to fit it originally, the compliance workshop had to remove the OEM threaded section of the filler neck... So right now my tank isn't sealed 100% until my new filler neck arrives (or I fit a restrictor PROPERLY). Once this is sorted, then there will be a little less evaporative losses (the car always smelt of vapour adjacent the filler). Reading up on the thread 'into the 10's' puts even more weight behind the installation of a DFA. But I want to get a baseline economy reading of a well-tuned standard setup first. Then the R34GTT cooler goes in & I'll get another set of dyno measured AFR, power & boost curves. More Updates: Here are the figures from the last 4 tanks of fuel, as you can see there is a bit of variance (as expected), but the last one is substantially better. I believe this to be the result of replacing the O2 sensor. 13-14L/100 around town would be what I'd expect from a car this size, not 17-18! 13/05/2005 15.8L/100km (340km) 20/05/2005 17.8L/100km (331km) 24/05/2005 16.1L/100km (340km) 01/06/2005 13.8L/100km (413km)

Yes, a 3.54:1 Crownwheel & Pinion.

They look worse than my crappy Autolites did & I 'm pretty certain I had a crook O2 sensor... That's more than just a heatrange too cold - it's very bloody rich.

I bought a new 3.54:1 R&P a few years ago & fitted it to my MR30, was a few hundred $. With the 4-speed auto it was a bit tall, but I expect it would be good in a manual or 3-speed auto. It's about to be fitted to a friends turbo MR30, as he runs out of revs with the 3.9:1 (yes, even in 5th...)

New handbrake cables, ~$80: http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/71474209 Groucho - yes the Australian R31 discs & rotors will bolt up to the Australian R30 struts - but on early cars you will have to reverse the struts left-right due to the calipers fouling on the steering knuckles.

The PFR5G-11's are a Platinum plug and over $20 each (I've just fitted a set to my car). The BCP's will certainly be a cheaper option.

Thought I'd better add my graph to the collection. 100% stock except on 'high-boost' mode all the time. This run was performed in 2nd gear, snow mode & with the centre-diff synchroniser active. The second run (blue) was after we'd advanced the timing a touch (~2deg).

The MASA kit isn't that cheap - see http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k18020338 for an advert from Masa themselves. The prices down the bottom loosely translate to: " - Front bumper 71 and 400 Yen - Conversion fender 52 and 290 Yen - FRP make bonnet 52 and 290 Yen - Side step 50 and 400 Yen - Rear bumper 55 and 650 Yen - Rear wing 41 and 790 Yen - Completion 渡し front 630000 full kits 840000 (production part * paint * payment * consumption price including tax です) " Somehow I don't think that includes all the genuine Nissan parts required (and previously discussed in other threads).... So you're up for Y630,000 for the front conversion panels only. That's around $7,700AUD for starters. It looks nice, but it's bloody expensive!

I'm just re-visiting this thread after putting my car on the rollers yesterday.... In stock form, it turned the dyno with 127kW at full noise. BUT on a light-throttle run at 70km/h the AFR's were in the LOW 11's (sometimes dipping into the 10's!). It's running extremely rich at all throttle loads & I'm getting less than 400km from a tank of fuel. The current suspect is a faulty O2 sensor, so I'm picking up a new one from my local Nissan dealer on Tuesday.... It's not fouling the plugs - yet. I probably won't be taking the car onto the dyno again until I get my new R34GTT intercooler fitted (~$110 from Yahoo! Japan). The individuals responsible for discovering this little upgrade gem know who they are! However I will keep an eye on the economy post-replacement & report in.

There is a factory R200 LSD (as fitted to the DR30), and you can also get factory R180 LSD's (from 910 Bluebird Turbo's) too. Neither are cheap.... The 'easiest' option is to get a complete DR30 rear end - this will give you larger rear discs, a 3.9:1 R200 LSD & 1/2 shafts to suit. Be prepared to spend $1500 to set yourself up.

FWIW... RMR rear discs = 258mm DR30 rear discs = 290mm There is a pair of DR control arms on Yahoo! Japan going cheap.

Vented BOV = bad idling & overfuelling on shifts on MAF metered engines. Read up on this a bit before taking the plunge. And I think the HR30 is fitted with an R180, not R200.

Brand new Whiteline swaybars suit R30 - $300/pair. Brand new Pedders lowered/HD springs suit R30 - $300/complete set. (all still in unopened boxes) These parts were going to go in my MR sedan, but I retired the shell due to body rust. My DR30 already has aftermarket bars & springs (K-Mac/Kings), so these parts are now surplus. Yes, the front bar will go around both the L & FJ sumps. Prefer Adelaide based buyer - I will deliver within the metro area. (Interstate buyers would be better off buying new due to freight costs.) I also have lots of MR parts that could go begging, including a custom R31 rear caliper setup inc. urethane control arm bushes, custom hard/flexible lines & new discs - enquiries welcome.

I'm about to fit up a MoTec M48 Clubman. Originally bought for my Z (which is currently running a Haltech E6A), I'm going to wire-up the DR & then buy a second loom for the Z. All up it was about $2600 with loom & sensors, but should do the trick nicely. I would use my E6A but it doesn't talk to Nissan optical pickups...

Converter lock-up is electronically controlled & thermally limited. The gearbox computer requires the transmission to be up to operating temperature before it can be used.