BensDR30

By far the cheapest & easiest upgrade for the R30 front brakes is the Australian delivered R31. You can fit the disc & calliper straight on to the R30 struts (Series 1 cars need the struts reversed left/right as the calliper fouls the steering stop on the control arm). The 4-speed auto can be modified (I built a tricked-up one for my MR30), but you're not talking about a huge difference in performance. In SA, turbocharging the R30 L24E is not allowed, but fitting an L28ET is ok (with engineering). That is probably your cheapest 'high-performance' option. Anything less and the car will either be a big pain to drive (peaky atmo.) or remain as underpowered as it currently is! They are a very reliable, and reasonably economical car, you might pick up some performance with head work, but the factory EFI is fairly primitive, and may not respond too well.

FYI O2 signal is disregarded at anything above a slight throttle opening. Not sure about exact % but I'd expect 30% max.

I actually made my own cable, which tested ok, and has been subsequently replaced with the 7502 pre-manufactured model. Unfortunately no change... I'm should be getting access to an IEBC & controller from another SAU member in Adelaide soon - this should narrow down the problem.

The custom SS split dump on my 240Z has been wrapped for 5 years and still looks like new - and has no cracks. Having said that, the mild-steel dump that I used to have on my MR30 Skyline was rusted beyond repair after 4 years. This is not surprising of course. I would seek a metalurgists perspective on this, but I'd rather repair/replace a $200 dump every 10 years than lunch the engine after a major coolant leak, or melting something important (like the battery on my Z!) If you don't want to wrap the pipe, at least consider shielding adjacent components. Exhaust systems will melt paint - wiring & hoses are long gone by that point!

Yes, unfortunately(?) they have been eliminated. The LCD trimpot responds ok - turn it up to max & it's a lovely row of blocks. The DFA only has one PIC (running voltmod.hex). There are a number of other IC's all of which have been verified to be installed properly (and their function is critical for the calibration to occur).

I'm posting this as a new topic because it will get probably completely lost in the 'Jaycar' thread. Moderators, I wasn't sure if this should be in the 'classified' section - move it if you see fit. As per my post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4395422, I'd like to borrow a Jaycar Hand control, or DFA (or unfitted IEBC/DPA) to help my try to find the reason why my unit isn't functioning properly (getting the top-row black boxes). After examining the PCB's neither myself of one of our electronics techs found any obvious issues with my setup. Using a bench supply I was able to calibrate the unit, so at least some of the IC's are working properly. My concern is that the PIC may be faulty, but without buying another one, I can't be sure. If anyone in Adelaide is open to allowing my to plug in my hand controller to their unit to verify it's function, of plug their hand controller into mine I'd really appreciate it. A successful diagnosis will result in the requisite liquid (or other suitably nominated) payment. Cheers,

I fitted the JJR front pipe/3" CATCO a couple of months back to our S1 RS4V with the car on the ground (my Z is using the shed/jackstands at present). Yes, the pipe is VERY close to the x-member, but hasn't hit it so far (I expect that the vibration would be quite audible if they did make contact). The exhaust mount that attaches to the gearbox was also unable to be re-used - the larger flanges on the exhaust just made the fitment too tight, and compared to the factory system the front pipe was about 20mm shorter. Having said all that, I am happy with the product, and even with the standard system behind the cat, the top-end is noticeably better. There is a little more turbine noise with the thinner wall SS vs the OEM cast dump, but nothing remotely unpleasant for my 6-month old daughter I ended up wrapping the front pipe in exhaust wrap from the O2 to the lower bend, and added some insulation to the heater pipes - you don't want them letting go after getting baked by the dump-pipe! (I had previously replaced the O2 sensor, so that was easy to remove)

Well I finally finished building my DFA (I build the controller almost a year ago...). Unfortunately, I'm getting the previously mentioned display fault (black boxes on the top row). I've double checked the circuit boards at home and at our electronics workshop at work (they've got better magnifying glasses), without finding any faults. I've managed to calibrate the unit without the display, but now I'm stuck. Does anyone in Adelaide have a hand-controller (or DFA) that I can compare/test against mine? I might be able to convince my dad into buying one for his '33, but right now I don't have many more testing options available without getting access to another unit.

Depending on what comes out of your GCG diagnosis, it might be worth selling as a rebuildable unit. I'm on the lookout for a 'T3/T4 Stage V' (as they tend to be called) for my 240Z, a GCG highflow from an RB25DET might be a good alternative! I haven't seen the condition of your CES dump, so initially I'd suggest that once removed, check it out for any damage that deems it uneconomical to repair. The JJR bellmouth is a good fit - but I couldn't re-use the gearbox exhaust hanger, there wasn't enough clearance for the thickness of the mount when mating it all up to the Catco CAT O2 sensors are about $120 for a new OEM unit. For your setup, you probably don't need anything more than the S2 factory I/C - I would consider testing the JJR unit vs. the factory unit for efficiency & pressure drop - the end-tanks of the JJR unit don't look that great for even flow through the core. If you're going the route of a PFC/E-manage then you probably warrant a bigger turbo to take advantage of the investment in engine controls. Consider the parts as a package & work out whether there is anything that is 'overkill' or a weak point. There's not much point in a PFC on a 100% stock engine/exhaust, but the factory system will run like a dog if not modified when running a high-flow, big exhaust, and more boost. It looks like you're somewhere in between.

The answer to your first question is 'cheap & plentiful', especially when you have access to a car being wrecked The fluid is not under pressure, but gravity/syphoning will cause a mess if you're not careful. It's a good idea to have a couple of bolts handy that you can put into the lines to minimise the mess while you stuff around getting things sorted.

I fitted an R31 S3 cooler to my S1 about a week after I bought it in '04. The R31 was a logical choice for me - Nissan spent mega-bucks adapting the car for Aust. & the S3 has the same gearbox as the Stag.

I reckon that this explains it - my parents have a '93 R33 GTS25T. I'll get them to have a look. *edit* Yup, their '33 has an igniter pack, It might be worth checking the engine number on any Stag's you see with one. I would expect that some left over engine stock might have crept in the assembly line, but it's a bit of an 'if'.

Not my S1...(which is a '96) I thought that only the RB20's has a separate igniter pack, and all '25's had it as part of the coil. Maybe I should FAST it...

My wife just told me of the 'Volvo' moment she had at the shops a couple of days ago: 2 boys, walking with mum (about 8 & 10 years old) Boy 1, rubbernecking: Awww, cool car! Boy 2: What is it? Boy 1: It's a Stagea, they're fully sick(!) Boy 2: It looks like a Volvo...

True, I forgot about all that! I've had a play with the cylinder tests for power-balance and set the VCT solenoid but haven't changed any sensor values. As you mention, the datalog files are tab-delimited text, which you can use outside of NDS and graph as you see fit.

Quite some time ago, my father bought a copy of NDS for use with their R33 GTS25T. Well, I eventually got around to connecting it all up & going for a drive in our S1 RS4V. After analysis of the date, I discovered a few interesting facts. For those not familiar with the software, it 'speaks' Consult, and can provide a lot of useful information about your non OBD-II Nissan ECU. There are newer packages available for the more modern power-plants from the same vendor. Now to the test results... 1. A full-throttle standing start, in 'Snow' mode, with 2nd selected, the high-boost solenoid gets triggered at 5600rpm. (That dispels the myth that it isn't triggered when in 'Snow' mode) 2. A full-throttle standing start, in 'Normal' mode, with Drive selected, the high-boost solenoid gets triggered at 6000rpm in 1st & 5600rpm in 2nd (don't ask about 3rd, it was a public road with a 100km/h speed limit...) Funnily enough 5600rpm is pretty much 100km/h as indicated in the software. (That dispels the myth that only low boost is used in 1st) 3. With the boost controls modified to use the restrictor as a permanent bleed (i.e. no solenoid actually in use), the AFM voltage got as high as 4.87V at 6650rpm. This, on an engine with breathing mods of only a Finer-Filter panel, reinforced intake pipe, C34 S2/R34GTT intercooler, JJR bell-mouth dump & 3" Catco Cat, doesn't leave much room for added flow before R&R kicks in. This occurred on the '2nd/snow' standing-start run, on the 'drive' run it got up to 4.62V at 6250rpm, which is the shift point. That's a bit better, but still only 0.5V away from the limit. (Those who have been paying attention would notice that the first run ended at a little more than 100km/h ) 4. Injector Duty Cycle peaked at 78%, this occurred as the engine bounced off the limiter a couple of times at the end of the first run. It got as high as 66% on the 'drive' run. 5. Timing dropped from 20 to 17 degrees during the 1st-2nd gear change, before returning to 25 degrees at 4000rpm at the end of the shift. 6. It was easy to see that even at low/mid throttle openings at 60km/h on a slight incline, the mixtures are certainly erring on the rich side. Quite some time ago I bought the Jaycar DFA kit (probably 2 years ago!), but haven't finished building it (I also have the DR30, 240Z & 1200 ute to work on, all of which have long lists of enhancements/projects that are on the go. Not to mention a young family!). Having looked at the figures shown by the brief logging that I performed tonight, I can see that the gains to be had in economy are more than theory. With a heavy car, in (low) boost a lot of the time, optimising the fuelling in the mid-range is of great benefit.

'Red stuff' are the full race pad - 'Green stuff' are the intermediates (I have them on the front of my DR30), and 'Black Stuff' are the most 'street' oriented compound (I have them on the rear of my DR30). I would suggest that you have gone a bit overboard with your pad selection.

I would not endorse 'driving around' with the synchroniser on all the time (it probably would wear out the transfer case clutches at a faster rate). However the owners manual goes into a bit of detail regarding the function, & behaviour when it's used. One thing it clearly states is that when engaged, turning tightly at low speed will cause the wheels to hop - and that this is normal & not a problem with the system.

Amen to that. I had to pick my jaw up off the floor when I read about using a copper sleeve on brake callipers. If you value your life, please don't do it. Once that sleeve fails (and it will), you will have a calliper that is not secured. I saw a MAJOR rollover on the track caused by a calliper jamming against the disc after a bolt failed. The lateral load on calliper bolts is massive, far beyond what the humble copper sleeve could cope with. I can vouch for the improvement that even fresh pads, a fluid flush & new discs (slotted front, stock rear) will provide. I couldn't afford braided lines when I serviced my brakes, but a stopper is another must. Before spending big $ on a brake upgrade, it's worth considering if what you've got is actually working properly.

When I put my car on the dyno, we selected 2nd, snow mode & synchroniser. I'm talking about the dog - and I never notice until the first time I put my foot down from a stop & wonder why the car is sluggish...

I'm surprised that you haven't found decent info in UK - you got the 32, 33 & 34 GT-R's, and the RNN14 GTiR delivered domestically. We were stuck with 'only' the 32. Although, I guess that in the last 10 years a heck of a lot of performance cars have been brought over to Australia as grey imports...

I'm now a bit curious about the 'snow' mode in regards to torque-split.... Now, if the 'Synchroniser' switch is on, you will get chattering of the drivetrain at high steering angles & low speed (this is normal). But, I have never experienced this when the car has been in 'Snow' mode (which is usually via the dog walking on the console switch - why does it never toggle to power?? ). I think that it would be more likely that in 'Snow' mode, it may run a higher front split, but it's not the same as using the 'Synchroniser' (Snow mode also starts in 2nd, and doesn't switch to high boost) Has anyone had a fiddle with these switches when on a dyno?

The RNN14 GTiR and U12 Bluebird SSS are purely mechanical ATTESA (dunno about U13). The GTR, C34 Stagea, etc are all ATTESA-ETS. As has already been mentioned, the ETS signifies Electronic Torque Split. The AWD/4WD definition debate is a royal PITA. There are full-time 4WD systems out there like the Subaru 'symmetric' design, there are multi-mode systems like the X-Trail, and others that are 'on-demand' type systems. One of the benefits of the ETS in the Stagea is the 'Synchroniser' switch - which is great for those low-traction jobs (or circlework in mud...)

I had a Volvo cross-country pull up next to me one day - do you think that the driver (who was wearing a hat) could get the puzzled look off of his face? The volvo comments are staring to thin-out a bit as Stageas becomes more common on the road, but there's always someone who doesn't have a clue out there...

Glad to hear you survived the encounter with the roo... You'll be cleaning the bugs out of the air-con condenser for months to come (we were after our Stag road-trip to the Goulburn Z nationals in '05)