BensDR30

Your best EBC for the $ is the Jaycar IEBC. The 'cheapest' boost increase is to re-arrange the factory plumbing & use the original restrictor as a bleed. I'm running an IEBC on my C34 (which will be dyno mapped Wednesday) currently at 0.6-0.65bar, an adjustable wastegate rod on my DR, and ECU-mapped on my Z. The IEBC brings the boost on much quicker than the others, and allows higher boost at quite low engine speeds. I plan on fitting the DR & Z with IEBC's as well - I think it will make quite a difference to the spool time of the 'big' TO3 on the FJ20, and more flexibility to the T3/T4 on the Z.

I'd 'fast' it to be sure, but I expect that a different sender would be required in the gearbox. Also, does the AR-X run a different diff. ratio?

Turbo performance = the biggest pressure difference you can get across the turbine. Further to that, you are aiming to convert the turbulent flow into smooth linear flow - which is why a rather large dump is desirable (as is a large exit from a Cat converter). Exhaust back pressure on a turbo engine = reduced performance (and possible increase in turbo wear). Tuned (read minimal to do the job) back pressure on a tuned N/A manifold is there as part of the tuning/extraction physics. If you can get good extraction with the right length primaries and no back pressure you have a winner. Have a read of the books 'Forced Induction Performance Tuning', 'Turbochargers' or 'Maximum Boost'.

Geez, I'd even be nervous with a legitimate one if I was pulled up by the boys in blue and they challenged the build plate-vs-fitment... I've always wondered 'how' some of the modified cars get through - you know, high mount T88's etc...

Free, unsolicited, bump - this is a good upgrade option for S1 owners.

We can suggest generic solutions all day, but knowing which cylinder is important. See if you can get access to someone with DataScan or equivalent & do a software-based power balance test at idle. It may just be a dud plug, but do you really want to pull them all out, change them and still be wondering what the problem was? Where are you located?

AFAIK, they start off as a standard shell, but have structural changes made before assembly. I seem to recall seeing something on an Autech brochure showing extra reinforcing around the C pillar, not to mention bolt-on braces under the floor. The marketing hype has had the desired effect here, that's for sure.

S2 guards are the same as S1 except they have the extra hole for the high-mount side indicator. You'll notice that the low-mount hole is till there, but hidden under the bumper... The S1/S2 lights are very different, but the body shells are the same. I bought nearly everything needed to fit an iron-mask to my old MR, but never got around to it. The bonnet catch is ok, but the manual release is different. Basically, I'd suggest you pick up an S2 aus-spec MR for sub $1000 and pull the bits of it. It will be a bit of a bastard though, as the S2 bumper update coincides with the ironmask for the DR, so there wasn't an S2-bumpered DR with big lights. The car in the pic has probably just got an S2 rear bumper fitted - but a lot of the S1's had fender mirrors, so who knows...

AFM is considered to be a faster reacting method, but a quality MAP system is just fine. I run a Haltech on my Skyline, and have a MoTec for my Z - both MAP. I've used the Haltech for over 10 years with no problems (aside from one firmware issue in 1997...)

And it had a Holden motor...

That was Holden's fault, not Nissans... My parents' VL went 400,000km with only one head fix - and that was an external leak adjacent a spark plug.

Lose the pod filter unless it's shielded - they tend to stuff up the airflow & cause reversion around the AFM too...

Mechanically, the most reliable Commodore was the one with the Nissan engine... I drive a VZ wagon for work, and would not buy one - it seems that for every service there are non-trivial warranty issues to attend to. Now I know that every car has it's quirks; but a new heater box after 5000km? A gearbox that won't stay in gear (well it does now, but not due to human intervention)? A radio that turns off randomly when the key is removed? Torn/broken trim after 30,000km? Air-conditioner fan switch failing after 30,000km? I'd shoot someone if my Nissans did that! (Although my '73Z has been fully rebuilt, and would rival the cost of a new VXR, things like fan switches and gearboxes don't fail - heck, it's only just shat the heater core after 36 years...) Even modified, a car can be just as reliable as factory stock - and sometimes more so. However, it can also be an unreliable pig, that is forever breaking parts - I'd consider that to be the point of having 'gone too far' with the modifications!

+1 I'm getting my DFA & IEBC tuned @ Graham West next week, but have been running a S2 SMIC for years...

Where are you located? In Australia, I would suggest that an 'honest' car with the modifications you describe would fetch upwards of $15k. If the sale is legit, and the car is as-advertised, then $5500 is a bargain. But I'd be wanting to know a heck of a lot more about this particular car & the circumstances of the sale before I was convinced. Do you have the Compliance VIN handy? Then a search in the Stagea section (in the buyers guide, no less!) will answer all the 'common' questions, and some you may not have thought of. *** damn you Nick, you posted while I was drafting...***

no pressure is specified in the Nismo book. FWIW L20ET are 185, FJ20E 240, RB20DET 259

Nismo catalogue also says 370cc, but I think it's 3-bar. (can confirm later today)

A couple of things: The timing belt wasn't put on incorrectly with a jumped tooth was it? Are you saying that it now idles at 1200rpm? You may have a disconnected line somewhere that is causing the high idle and leaking boost - it is running rough at all?

Motion carried - Keep the red line!

A decent EBC should be able to turn that bumpy boost curve into any shape you want - and providing you're not just generating pressurised hot air with an ever decreasing CFM rate, flatten out the top end, or even increase the boost there.

It sure does, I haven't refined my maps yet and could probably ramp the actuator opening faster which would increase the build-rate even further. I had a look at the boost when driving south on Commercial Road towards Maslins today and hit 0.65-bar in 4th (not locked up) at 2400rpm... It took me about 45 minutes to install it, and about half an hour to get a reasonable map in place. I'll be dynoing the car soon now I've got the DFA in so the IEBC will be mapped more accurately then. Your setup would have excellent potential with the OEM intercooler still in place.

FWIW, I was keeping it simple for those who were not familiar with DC theory. The Volts were also the constant, and the Amps the variable (basd on the specified Wattage). Whatever you end up doing, make sure you have sufficient headroom in regards to fuses, relays & wiring. An upgrade from 55W to 60W won't be an issue, but 60W to 100W is a pretty big jump.

In this particular case, the wattage has 'nothing' to do with the volts, but plenty to do with the amps. So yes, you will need to consider the wiring & fuse rating

Get your IEBC finished Dave - the boost response with a shut wastegate is fantastic! I haven't finished mapping mine, but even with my 1st-draft 0.65-bar tune, all you have to do is breathe on the throttle to get boost. With the stock turbo and JJR dump/cat, I can get full boost at around 2500rpm. I'm sure you could really wake-up the GCG and spend your cash elsewhere!

Don't forget a trans cooler upgrade and also bigger sway-bars (I'm looking at getting Selby ones shortly).