BensDR30

Not implying anything about you or your car but... Are you really surprised that an inspector, who's job is to inspect modified cars, knew that there are aftermarket computers that are popular on grey imports and therefore looked for one? You would consider the inspector naive if they saw such a grey import, with modifications that exceed the factory ECU's programming, and weren't aware that it was likely that you had an Apexi, Greddy, or HKS module controlling it. It doesn't take a genius to see a Z32 AFM or the like, especially if it's your job to catch people who think that they can get around the regs. Sometimes you can 'bend' the rules a little (or disguise a PFC in the factory casing), but the TSA staff aren't stupid (although, they can be a little arrogant at times...), so you do need to have some lady luck on your side if you're going to 'try it on'. The only full inspection I've had (due to an engine swap), took quite a while, and every inch of the car was looked at. Questions about brake fitment, track, gearbox modifications, manifolds, intercooler fitment - they were all checked. The only part of the aftermarket ECU that got a frown, was that it wasn't securely fastened in the cabin as I hadn't made a proper mount for it. That's not so say that I didn't have to justify its installation though. At the end of the day, Regency were perfectly happy with the Haltech fitted to my Z. But it's all about ADR's - and unfortunately the late model cars are somewhat constrained in that regard.

A year or two ago, I started sending out messages that I was interested in selling my DR. I had a few bites, but I think that it was obvious that I wasn't 100% committed to the sale. The car sits in the driveway at present, with a new SAAS drivers seat, awaiting the final fitout of my PWR Water-to-Air IC (and a re-map of the Haltech to factor in the IC). I shall try to re-register it over summer, because even with 140kW, it's a blast to drive & is a classic Japanese car. If you have to sell it, then do so. But be damn sure about it!

LOL! Hey chef - what are you having done @ MV's? (PM me if you like to keep the thread on-topic)

We'll try & make it in the S1 RS4V but have a busy few weekends coming up...

S1 RS4 Rear disc: 42306-4P000 List price is $160.47 each

Steady-on! Our S1 RS4V has stock rims, exhaust & suspension... see: (Image, courtesy 'Tangles') (The wider tyres, R34GTt inter-cooler, R31 transmission cooler & slotted discs don't count) And after looking at the collection out Friday, I'm inclined to think ours was the oldest one there - and one of the first registered (I'm the 1st Aust. owner & have had it since 2004). I know that there are more around on the road & am fairly confident we could crack 30 cars with a bit more effort.

Here's mine from up @ Lofty: (remind me to wear something warmer next time...)

I think that there is some kind of resonance in the RB engine at around 1500rpm, because if I free-rev my RS4 there is a vibration at that speed. It's fine when under a load (i.e. in gear). My L28ET has a similar resonance (I-6 engines are very smooth, but perhaps that is the 'rough' spot in the Nissan's?). Make sure you can isolate the issue if possible. If the problem is apparent at 40km/h in second, down change to 1st & check again. If the problem persists no matter what engine speed, then you are looking at an 'output' issue. Look for a possible fault in the centre bearing, or perhaps a thrown weight from the main or transfer driveshafts (working out of where the weight 'was' should be easy - there will be a shiny spot, or a broken spot-weld). You might also want to consider an on-car wheel balance. I found that my old MR30 Skyline was a right pain to get balanced due to a disc issue. Also look for any issue with a dragging calliper or warped disc. But as others said, a visual inspection & bit of time will help you narrow down the cause.

The brakes are all installed & bedded in, so apart from needing a wash, our wagon is up to the task!

Well FWIW, when the shocks get worn out in my RS4V (which probably isn't far away...), I'll simply fit a set of Nismo S-Tune's to suit. From memory the price quoted was ~$1500 for a complete set (inc springs). They WILL fit, and should work a treat on the road.

I should be good too - providing I get my new rear discs & pads installed & the brakes bled before then! (Fronts are done). The 'burbs cruise is better for me - the missus is 6 months pregnant, so squirming around in the hills is a bit of an issue

Ok, so my prices were a bit off... (Note that theses prices might be trade, and were from Nov. 2004) 27545-8E500 $11.00 ea 27545-0N002 $11.50 ea I bought 2 of the 1st & 4 of the second. That should be enough info to work out which size is which.

Mine's also with Shannons; 1996 RS4V $21k agreed $800p/a Recreational use (1-2 days / week) Approved alarm.

See my post on page 11 of the 'Stagea Brakes' thread.

From memory new ones from Nissan are about $3 each. I recommend changing all of them at the same time - else you'll have slightly dull areas where the old blue covers have faded.

Hi Alexander, Seriously, if you have the electronic skills to attempt re-programming a 1st generation Japanese digital ECU, then you should find fitting an aftermarket ECU a piece of cake. The HR30 already runs an optical distributor, so all you need to fit is Air-Temp, TPS & MAP sensors (over & above what's factory fitted) and you're 1/2 way there. At least then you can tune it to run on whatever grade fuel you have available & modify the engine down the track without the hassle of outgrowing the factory ECU. With a decent time investment and an extra pair of hands, even tuning can be achieved without a the use of a chassis dyno. Food for thought...

Well this is an interesting situation; I've just got a quote on new genuine discs for my S1 RS4V, and as per my own research, the confirmed part number is 43206-4P000. (~$150 each FWIW) Now the funny thing is that in the Nissan Parts Master software, this number is also shown to be suited to R34 25GT & R34 20GT, along with the Y33 & Y34 Glorias, plus the C35 Laurel (interesting that the C34 Laurel isn't mentioned...). Ok, so when we cross-reference this information with our 'trusty' DBA catalogue, we get... DBA 908 series The problem I think is that the DBA catalogue lists both the 25GT & 25GTt as (incorrectly?) having the same rear disc. Can someone confirm this? I guess where it would be nice is if DBA start making the 'correct' rear R34 25GT disc, we can use it on our WC34's (well the RS4's until August 1998).

I bought genuine Nissan pads (Hitachi) a few weeks back form Grand Nissan. They didn't take long to get them in.

FWIW - Series 1 RS4V OEM pad part numbers & prices: Front - D1060-5P690 RRP $138.17 Rear - 44060-AG089 RRP $122.77 I paid trade, so 10-15% less.

YEAR: 1983 MODEL: KDR30 RS-X Turbo BODY TYE: Coupe COLOUR: Red / Blue metallic (Original).

Could be the CAS in the dizzy dying - a common problem in the RB30E. Swap over the distributors next. (Or by a can of freeze spray & give the distributor body a good dose when it plays up next.)

A few months back the branches that were hanging in front of both the detector & camera were causing that unit to go off whenever it felt like it. I've seen that camera flash a completely empty interection on occassion! And, yes there was a big political scandal regarding the reliability of the units. But I do believe that at great expense to the taxpayer, they've all been fixed and are working 'as designed'. Moral of the story - watch your speed & when it's red - stop! (especially westbound on Grote street through West terrace - it's 50km/h there)

Sorry about that! I grabbed that plate for my wagon at the end of 2004...

HOWEVER... Fitting wheels over the 4-spots is a bit of a problem, as the calipers prodrude further than the OEM R32/33 fitment. As a result, with the stock alloys, spacers of about 20mm are needed. That doesn't do much for the scrub radius, or the axle bearing loads. The best 4-spot as far as this issue is concerned is late S13 - they are designed for a 22mm disc as opposed to the Skyline's 30mm. I can't even get my 16" Watanabe F8's over a set of R33 calipers. I've just put EBC Green-Stuff pads in my DR30, they do the trick.

The 'big' 274mm discs have 4" (101.6mm) spacing, the small brakes are 3.5" (88.9mm). Ahhh, the legacy of the imperial system...