BensDR30

True, but hence the reference to the VG30ET rather than the DET (which I believe was also available with a composite compressor when fitted to Gloria's etc - not good for high boost). The VG30ET unit wasn't ball bearing - not back in the mid 80's when the Z31 was made. The VG30ET turbo is a nice cheap well-sized unit for an L6, the turbine is a bit small & fragile for high flow & boost though (my next hurdle...). Another option is either a stock, or upgrade RB25DET turbo. 180kW in standard trim, quick response, probably more plentiful than the VG30ET & a ball-bearing core. There are 2 galleries in that side of the block - pickup & main. It's best to be cautious & go the external route, it's not hard to do & is mechanically sound (when braced). You will soon see the pickup situation once you pull the sumps - a short length of tubing & another brace soon solve that issue. Try not to cause a fire when welding though!

True, but that won't allow you to keep the gearbox in one piece if you increse the power output significantly over stock. Generally speaking a 'stage 1' shift kit includes modification to the valve body to provide firmer shifts (less slip=less heat) and higher clamping pressures (more holding capacity), and a larger cooler. Moving on from there you can increase the firmness further (at the expense of ride quality), and modify the clutches to cope with more power. From that point you are looking at increasing the strength of the input shaft, and possibly the planetary gearsets themselves. You're probably also in the realm of manual valve bodies & transbrakes if you're this serious. My Z 3-speed has a custom modified valve body (it shifts HARD), Kevlar clutches, a slightly higher stall-speed converter (a 4-cylinder converter can be an easy swap for a few more stall-rpm out of your 6), and raised shift rpm points. It does have to cope with the best part of 300HP, and the standard box would be a horrid thing in these conditions (burnt out clutches would be a regular problem - resulting in complete rebuilds). Most of this stuff is useless in a stock motor, but a 'stage 1' kit is useful when towing, as the transmission is doing more work and the reliability does benefit from the extra cooling & slightly firmer shifts. A slightly raised stall speed can also wake up an engine, especially if it is suffering from the low speed effects of a modified camshaft, or has a larger-than-stock turbo. An otherwise standard RB30ET feels noticably crisper with a lightly modified gearbox & raised higher stall speed.

Yes, the mixtures are altered by the AFM tension, but it's a fairly crude method of tuning, especially considering the ECU is a 1st generation digital system, that is far from optimal. I've heard of fairly significant ouput gains on the FJ20ET fitting a decent aftermarket ECU (15-20kW). The 120kW is relative to drivetrain - and my drivetrain is automatic, so the parasitic losses were significantly higher than if it was manual. To put it into perspective, the stock L24E was 62rwkW & the L28E (Haltech E6A, non-turbo) was 68rwkW. So we're looking at basically double the stock L24E output, and more than 2.5x the torque... 120rwKW in an early Z chassis is quite a bit, remember that it only weighs about 1050kg without a driver. The sumps will bolt up, no problem. The oil pickups might not. There are 2 locations that the pickup could be bolted to, and the blocks are drilled to suit the bowl location of the sump to be fitted. What this means is that you may have to extend the oil pickup, and re-mount the dipstick. I've fitted an external dipstick to L6's in the past. The current engine in the Z doesn't have one at all, and the pickup is extended with a supporting brace to the #4 main bearing cap centre-bolt. The turbo pump doesn't seem to have any issues dealing with this, or the external cooler.

But do the headlights now work?

What you need to do is visit your local falcadore performance shop, as you're after a Borg Warner LSD.

The N47 _may_ have exhaust liners, which will slightly reduce your exhaust flow. But more importantly, if they're loose, there's a chance that the turbine could get foreign object damage. Regarding the L20ET snail, it will be far too small for an L28, I'm running a VG30 turbo on my L28ET, and am looking to modify the wastegate as it is unable to hold boost above 12psi - even bleeding off masses of air from the actuator. Having said that the VG30ET/RB30ET size units are about right for a 'spritely' setup as they are designed for a 3 litre engine. I'm using 380cc injectors in my car, and without the ability to run sequential, or change the injector phasing, the idle is very hard to keep smooth. So I'd recommend something a little smaller for ease of use. I happen to have 6 E15T injectors (sometwere...) that I used to be running. I don't know the CC rating, but they were able to give me about 120rwkW @ 7psi before I upgraded the whole fuel system. The best thing about using the L28 turbo in an R30 (or Z) is the torque. RPM's aren't so forthcoming, but when you can have 6psi @ 2000rpm it's a fairly fun ride. I like spinning my FJ20 to 6500rpm, but the L28ET has grunt. I'm aiming for around 160rwkW once upgrade the Haltech E6A to a MoTec M48 Clubman at less than 15psi (currently ~140@11psi). This is a stock 'development' engine that one day (and Steve knows that I've working on this for years...) will be replaced with a fully prepped F54/P90 setup, which is aiming for 300+kW. The head for the new engine has been heavily modifed and is able to flow lots of CFM. But installing a tailshaft loop, Z31 1/2-shafts & an R200 LSD are first on the agenda. I've already popped the spiders in one R180, and I don't do burnouts... Even with new uni-joints in the stock shafts, I know I'm pushing my luck with the amount of power the car has got.

"spellar" - LOL

Z-145A is a Ryco number. The easiest way to get the correct Nissan part (if your dealer has no idea what a Stagea is - most of them don't), is ask for one to suit an R31 Skyline.

The 'Colour Trim' code of my car is '276 Z'

The symptoms you describe indicate that the bulb-check-relay is energising, this only happens when the alternator isn't charging (or isn't appearing to be charging). Now there could be several things causing this fault, the alternator, the wiring or the relay itself. Realistally te alternator needs to be tested for correct voltage output when on the car & possibly also bench-tested by your local sparky. The bulb-check circuit has the benefit of being a really big, confusing voltage warning system, so if you miss the little picture of the battery glowing, the rest of the dash lights are still staring you in the face!

A ticking noise is usually a leak at the manifold/head. A squealing is indicative of a leak at the base of the turbine to the manifold. I blew out a turbine base gasket in my Z a few years back and it squealed - LOUD!

I had a quick look at that DR when it was plain white, I remember following it up the road one day & it didn't seem to be running so well (very rich & not pulling that hard). Hopefully you've got it running sweeter now. It's interesting that it's got a MoTec, their not that common in the aftermarket in Japan.

The LD28 is quite different due to not having a distributor... The LD is also a 'mid' block (as per L20B), but not as tall as the Z24. In short, the L14/16/18/20/24/26/28 run the same cover (and most other parts).

ECU power = Ign ECU earth = Earth Tacho in/out = pull the instrument cluster & intercept the tacho wire at that location, I can't remember what colour it is, but it's pretty obvious.

Are you sure that's it's black & not dark metallic blue? My RS-X is red & blue, which are both Nissan colours that my paint shop got from their books, apart from that the paint code is written on the build plate.

I'm in for a set too - I've got some of the Japanese manuals in paper form, but not the complete set.

Ghostriders recipe will yield many more horses than 200. But remember that NA power takes much more 'effort' than turbo power when it comes to engine complexity (machinst costs etc). With an NA setup you will only get >100% VE in a very small rev-range. Whereas with a turbo, 100% VE is something you'll acheive through a very wide rev-range. Even a low-boost (4psi) setup will give you about 30% increase in power & torque over standard, all with completely stock components. NA is a great thing, but the recipe is a fine balance between power & driveability. I've got 200rwHP out of a dead-stock L28E, automatic at 9psi boost. It's just as civil as a new car, but propels my 240Z at quite respectable speeds when asked to. The same engine, after being reconditioned, with the same gearbox & diff produced 90rwHP without the turbo, some 100,000km ago...

Better late than never I guess.... I do. Where are you located & is there a specific section you're after?

E88

This is the EXACT same result I experienced when I changed my sensor. All you slack buggers that haven't checked their economy figures are (literally) burning too much cash. :Pimp2:

That all depends on the 'requirements' that you have to meet.... My Z was passed with an EBC (via the ECU) and a bleed on the transmission modulator line. The inspectors knew that these things were there, as they were discussed during the inspection. The use of the EBC was justified by the fact that the wastegate on the turbo was of a lower opening pressure than the OEM L28ET one & the bleed on the trans modulator line was easily explained by the fact that I told them that I'd already blown up 2 modulators by over-pressurising them (which is true)! I'm now running the stronger VL turbo modulator, but have left the bleed there 'just in case'. Having said all that - I'd recommed the removal of such devices from a 'new' car that must meet more stringent ADR's.

FWIW, the Nismo S-Tune springs for the Stagea RS4 are 212lb/in (F) & 246lb/in ®. I'm going to try & get a price on the S-Tune parts to compare with what has already been listed.

The 260RS body is also stronger.

That's because you were having an ID check performed - not a roadworthiness inspection. ID checks can be performed at Sturt & Regency. During which they will check the numbers on the car to ensure it's not a rebirth or is stolen. They MAY also check the tinting if it appears to be too dark. A full roadworthiness inspection is performed at Regency (or your country cop-shop). That's where defects are cleared, or a car is presented for approval after legal modifications are performed.

The ATTESSA pump only runs enough to maintain system pressure. You will hear it run for a few seconds after startup and then every now-n-then when driving.