petgts4

I'm still in need of this lock and support bracket... they're proving quite hard to find! Cheers.

Thanks brad, yeah i called them last week and they wanted around $200 for the lock (from Japan) and $200 for the support panel... Don't really want to spend that much on just these, so i'm still chasing second hand ones...

Hi guys, I'm after an R32 GTR bonnet lock and support panel that the lock bolts on to. I'm in Melbourne, but offers from anywhere are welcome. Thanks in advance! Peter.

I bought myself a power fc yesterday and installed it... the 4wd works perfectly, and so does everything else. Just letting you guys know that i didn't have to do anything else apart from simply installing the power fc. Just have to get a tune now...

Interesting... Maybe the microtech has provisions for the extra wiring as cruiseliner said. Well, i guess if 4wd doesn't work when i plug the power fc in, then i'll just hook up the necessary wires. Thanks again guys! Cheers.

Awesome, thanks for that. Now i just have to find a power fc at the right price! Cheers guys.

I know the topic is for vented bonnets, BUT i'm just wondering if it's possible to get a fibreglass R32 GTR style non-vented bonnet... if so, then i'm up for that!

Isn't the power fc a plug-and-play type unit, where you basically use the old ecu harness to plug straight into the power fc? Therefore the wires that also connect to the attessa ecu would remain the same because no wires would be modified, right? Then you'd just get your car all tuned up...

I tried searching , and I read the FAQ on the powerfc which was very helpful, but it didn't answer my specific question... I'm going to get a powerfc for my R32 GTS-4, and just wanted to know if the normal RB20 version (AP Engineering) is the one for me. The ATTESSA has an independent computer under the parcel shelf in the boot, right? However, would the 4wd system also incorporate the use of the standard ecu for certain functions? I'm asking this because i'm wondering if the rb20 powerfc would take this into consideration if in fact the GTS-4 ecu is involved with making ATTESSA work. Even though you can modify the rb26 powerfc to use with the rb20, apparently the only things that need to be modified have to do with injectors and not anything to do with ATTESSA in the rb26 version. Even so, i just wanted to know if the normal rb20 version will work fine with my gts4! Any help would be great! Thanks.

Went down yesterday and bought the bearings from Bearing Wholesalers for $4 each (needed 8) and chucked them in after a thorough clean of the control arms... no more squeaks! Thanks for the replies guys!

Received the castor rods yesterday and installed them. Exactly what i was after, great product, great service! Thanks again Steve.

Thanks for the replies so far guys! I've attached a pic of the upper control arm from my car and just needed to confirm that this is the stock one, because i saw a pic of another R32 one that looked a lot different (maybe it was a gts-t one?). Not sure but it looks like my one is adjustable and it might be ball bearing.... can anyone confirm this from the pic? If mine is the stock bush one, then the whiteline kit (KCA336) sounds like the way to go. SydneyKid, i'll let you know if i need this! Thanks!

Does anyone know where to get replacement bushes (urethane) for the front upper control arms on an R32 GTS-4? (same as GTR). Called Pedders and they have no listing... Nissan only have the whole arm available each for $200+... Many aftermarket ones use ball bearings, and was told that it's really easy to replace the bearings, but what about the normal rubber/urethane bushes for the stock item? Any help is appreciated! Cheers.

Just paid via paypal on the justjap website. Thanks for that!

pm sent.

I have an 89 R32, and i had a problem with the water line (engine side) not lining up at all... the rb20 water line came out to the side, whereas i needed it to point down to clear the exhaust housing on the rb25 turbo. I had to make one up... however, are the connections the same for all water lines in regards to connecting them to the engine? ie, same location? If this is true, all you need is this line instead of making one yourself... anyone know?

The R32 GTR front rotors for the dba 4000 series are 4926. However, that's for the gtr made between 6/89 - 8/93. Between 8/93 and 12/94, they are 4928 becasue they had 324mm diameter rotors. As for rotors for the gts4, i'd recommend getting dba 4000 series to suit the r32. The part numbers are: 4909 for the fronts, 4908 for the rears. They are both slotted as the part numbers should also have either SL or SR on each (slotted left, slotted right). That's what i'll be getting anyway for the gts4. As for the price, I was quoted over $900 for the whole set though!!! So, i guess it would be even more expensive for say the gtr brakes as they are bigger! But keep in mind that's the retail price :Pimp2:

Warren, thanks for the info! I'm in melbourne so i'll give him a buzz tomorrow. Predator, i might just have to get a second hand one if it's too expensive for a new one. After all, a good second hand one may still last for ages. I was told that some CAS's can be rebuilt if it's something like the bearings being stuffed. However, if it's the actual sensor inside (optical eye?) that's stuffed then you basically just chuck it out.

Hi guys, i have a few questions i was hoping we all could answer! I tried and tried to look for these answers using the search, but to no avail. Anyway... How many people have bought a NEW crank/cam angle sensor for their cars? If so, where did they get theirs from??? Nissan placed a price tag of $900+ for a new one... :chairshot I called Petro-jet here in Melbourne and they said they had no listing for an rb20det CAS, but they can match one up if i brought my one down. Now, how could they do that when they wouldn't know the specs of it? ( i should have asked them that!) They think it should cost around $200 for one but they're not sure. Also, is the rb20det CAS the same as any of the rb25 or rb26 CAS's? If anyone has any thoughts and/or info on this feel free to post! :uh-huh: Cheers.

Correct me if i'm wrong: in the comments section, it states that it has anti-lock brakes... but in the engine bay pic, there is no ABS unit in sight. Has someone actually called this guy?

Hehe, no worries about the boost controller! How were the settings? That rb26dett 4-door gts4 is awesome sarumatix! Biggest sleeper ever! :headspin: Good to put some names to faces from both NS and SAU.

Good idea about the monday meet... if anyone's going, i'll see you there

Just replaced my H3C bulbs with H3 bulbs... Since the h3c bulb has 2 connectors and the h3 has 1, all you need to do is solder a piece of wire to the metal base of the h3 bulb and attach it to the ground wire in your headlight loom. The other wire just plugs into the positive side. **The headlights that normally use h3 bulbs are already grounded hence no need for an extra wire.** Works perfectly.

Yep, they are different - take a look at www.narva.com.au/Globes_16.html and you will see the difference. The main difference is that H3 has one prong, whereas H3C has two prongs (positive and ground). My r32 has H3C bulbs in them aswell, but i was told that you can put in H3 and just attach it using the positive side of your plug. In saying this, does it mean that the H3 (and the H1 for that matter) doesn't need a ground wire since they only have 1 attachment? Most companies only stock the standard light colour for the H3C, whereas you can get blue, white, arctic blue etc in the H3. Anyone tried replacing the bulbs like this?

As stated by vicroads: The ground clearance of a vehicle measured from a horizontal road surface to any point on the underside of the vehicle except the tyres, wheels, wheel hubs and brake backing plates shall, with the vehicle in its loaded state as specified by the manufacturer, be not less than: for any point in the width of the vehicle which is within one metre fore and aft of any axle, 100mm. saff_cossie, sorry but the coke can principle is wrong because the height of a coke can is around 130mm... But you're right in saying that your car has to be measured in its unladen weight, ie. with no passengers or even 8 15" subs in the boot. And also, it should be measured on a flat surface, not half in the gutter as my car was tested and failed which ended up being legal when on a flat surface Anyway, getting back to the point, superspit if you do end up getting your exhaust refitted to be able to drop your car to almost 100mm, then i think that's awesome because that's what i'd be doing! Afterall, it is legal! The cops do like picking on cars that are dumped pretty low though, but if they don't get you for the height then they probably will for something else... So, 100mm is not THAT low... Hope this helps superspit!!!