JD_R33

Just wondering if anyone who has one of these kits could tell me which standard intake pipes/hoses they actually replace on an RB26? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=3 Pictures of a kit fitted would be fantastic. I did a search, but could only find one old thread about the kits and the picture links were broken. Vaguely recall some discussion about the hard pipes causing problems (shuffle?) when fitted with aftermarket turbos, so any info on that would also be appreciated. Cheers, JD

Firstly, this isn't a step-by-step tutorial on changing your RB timing belt etc as it's already been covered here and elsewhere several times. More a collection of little things I found out the hard way, that I don't recall reading anywhere before I started. Hopefully they will be useful for anyone else embarking on a similar project Here's the list of parts I had accumulated over several months before finally getting around to actually doing the project: Timing Belt (Gates Racing) T1040R Belt Tensioner & Idler Pulley (Partech) PBT15 & PBT145 Water pump (ACE) Thermostat (Tridon) Cooling Pro alloy radiator (JustJap) Radiator hoses (Gates) 10 litres long life coolant Blue Max sillicone A/C belt 4PK915 Alt belt 4PK875 P/S belt 4PK970 Adjustable cam gears (JJR) Clear timing cover (Bling!) Cam seals x 2 Crank seal The things that I wasn't prepared for: 1. You need a 30mm socket to undo the crank pulley bolt. The biggest I had in my set was 27mm, so off to Bunnings to get a sturdy little Sidchrome number. 2. There seemed to be lots of discussion about how to get the crank pulley bolt undone, cause the bastard is really, really tight - I found putting the car in 4th gear with the handbrake on and using a breaker bar with about 4 foot of water pipe slipped over it did it for me. 3. When I pulled off the fan I noticed the plastic had a series of cracks in it. Bugger. Off to Mr Nissan to order a new one - $257.91 + GST. 4. When I removed the allen bolts that hold on the upper timing belt cover several of the little steel/rubber packing washers fell to bits, so another call to Mr Nissan - $7.61 + GST each X 5. 5. Remembered reading somewhere that the clear timing cover needed the rubber gasket and brass spacers off the stock timing cover fitted, or the CAS would end up getting jammed. Tried pulling the rubber gasket off the stock timing cover - you guessed it - it fell to bits. Getting quite friendly with the bloke at the Nissan parts counter by now - $21.83+GST. A few random observations & tips in no particular order: - I took my time doing it, basically disassembled everything one day, put it all back together the next. I find i'm much less likely to f*&k something up when not in a rush. - I bought a box of small ziplock bags from Woolies and used them and a permanent marker to put all the various bolts and things in as I went, made life much easier when it came time to put everything back together. - The CAS goes in a lot easier if you put a light smear of grease on the surface that slides into the timing belt cover, also on the rubber gasket. - The plastic fan shroud wouldn't quite sit in the bottom mounts with the new Cooling Pro radiator, was fouling on the bottom radiator hose. A bit of surgery with the Dremel soon fixed it. - The stock rubber hose from the radiator filler neck to the overflow tank was too big for the outlet pipe on the Cooling Pro radiator. Used a length of 6mm ID rubber vacuum hose from Supercheap, just needed to soften the end in some hot water to get it on the overflow tank inlet pipe. - The little plastic clips that hold the water temp sensor wiring connector to the fan shroud had broken, so drilled a small hole each side of the mounting point on the fan shroud and secured the connector block to it with a black cable tie. - The water pump came with a paper gasket, but the stock pump didn't have one when I removed it and there was no gasket shown in the R33 parts diagram, so I just used sillicone. Same for the thermostat housing. Anyways, here's the end result. Next DIY project - replacing the stock turbo's.

Just changed the timing belt/water pump/cam gears etc on my R33 GTR, and while I was at it fitted a bigger aftermarket radiator which has a top tank about 50mm wide. Went to put the airbox snorkel back on and it won't fit over the top of the wider radiator. I want to keep the stock airbox and reuse the snorkel if possible, rather than fit pods. Was thinking I might be able to heat it up with a heat gun and remold it to fit over the radiator, and wondering if anyone has done this successfully before? Cheers, JD

Short shifter has been sold. Jaycar kits were on hold, will check if they still want them and let you know.

Last time I go drinking with you

That sounds about right, I probably just went through Dickson to get it all over and done with in one hit. My 33 was bog stock though, so it was no big deal, they only picked up on a rooted castor rod bush which needed replacing anyway.

Way back when I bought my first R33 into the ACT the rules were that any car bought privately from interstate had to go though Dickson, no exceptions. From memory, it was something to do with requiring an identity check that only Dickson could do. Don't know if that's your circumstances, or if the rules have changed, but I guess you'll find out when you try to book it in somewhere. I have a set of stock R33 wheels and tyres if for some reason you need to borrow them

I thought that was you in the white sedan and was nearly going to lean on the horn, but there was a commodore between us which may have been a bogan transporter, so I didn't. So, what is this new beast? I didn't get a good look.

Actually, I was thinking of just going out to ACTLPA with the block plans in hand and having a chat about what I want to do. Is that the done thing, or is it a formal process with booking an appointment first? You guys are still out at Mitchell right?

Shit, I thought i'd be lucky to get one reply, and there's three of you? Do you guys all know each other? Maybe you can just all come over one arvo, i'll supply the beer Good point on the Development Assessment stuff Adam - I tried to work out from the ACTLPA website what sort of approval it needed, if any, and just got more confused. I guess knowing the floor area would be a good start, so i'll have to measure it up again. From memory it was going to be something like 8m x 7m, so around 50 - 60 sqm. I'm off to NQ on Friday for a few days, but i'll give you all a shout early next week. Whoever's intererested and available can come check out the site (i'm in Calwell if that matters). Thanks guys, JD

Cheers Donnan, i'll be in touch. Do the ACTLPA mob require that the plans be drawn up by a registered or certified person? I've never had to deal with them before as my builder always took care of that stuff, but unfortunately he's retired now. I have another builder in mind that we have used before, but he just said to get some plans drawn up, then he'll give me a quote. I have no idea about boundaries, easements, development vs building approvals, public notices etc, etc.....which all really sucks, because I just want a shed.

Just wondering if anyone can recommend a good car-nut-friendly drawer of domestic house extension plans that can knock up a set for me? Looking to build a large brick double garage/workshop onto the side of the existing double garage, somewhere to put the overflow of toys from the current shed, and to be a peaceful haven for the boys who hath sinned and been banished from the household. Someone with experience in designing workshops (who can suggest stuff like power/lighting layouts, hoist clearances/positioning, etc) would be perfect, but can probably work out most of that myself if necessary. Cheers, JD

Look at it this way Troy - anyone that would spit on someone else's car inevitably has more than their fair share of problems, so imagine how much it sucks to be them. Spit is temporary, being a bogan loser dickhead is forever........

You went through the lights at Theodore while I was waiting to turn, and it only took me about 5 K's to catch up The old diesel ute has been called many things (especially the time it broke down halfway up the Clyde), but stylish isn't one of them.....

Bad luck Sin, know the feeling well. Was it something like this colour, only a sedan? Put me on your list of people to txt if you find it.....

If anyone on here with a white 33 was driving through Calwell at about 6:30 tonight, you'd better check your tailights. The one that cruised by my place had all hotplates off......

You mean the smurf's blood? Redline Lightweight Shockproof. As much as we all like to bag it, it actually seems to have (at least temporarily) made my dodgy 4th gear synchro much less noticeable. Only get a slight crunch now if shifting too fast, which is mostly avoidable. Still looking at a rebuild in the longer term, but haven't had a chance to suss out the local workshops yet. The only place that I know of that definitely sells the Redline stuff is Reliance in Isa St.

A month or so back you would have seen my R33 LM doing the same suspension test track run, except it was me driving it with a suspension guy as passenger and it went nowhere near the limiter. Would be pretty surprised if it was who I think you mean that was giving the R32 a pizzling

All good info thanks folks. I will drag out the yellow pages tomorrow and try and visit a few places through the week and sound them out - to be honest, I wouldn't get it done anywhere that hadn't done a GTR box before. Advanced and AutoTorque sound promising, if I manage to get some rough quotes i'll post them up for the benefit of the others that are interested. And Jon, if you can find somewhere that will do a group buy for much less than 3k a box let me know as i'll be in. Oh, and Steve-O - I think i'll pass on the smurf's blood thanks.

My 4th gear synchro is getting a bit dodgy, so just wondering who has had a GTR gearbox rebuilt locally? Any feedback on where you went and what sort of job they did would be appreciated. Anything negative, maybe PM me would be best. Cheers, JD

Unless the rules have changed recently, I think you will find that if you bought it privately from interstate that it HAS to go through Dickson for an identity check as well as a roadworthy. When I bought my GTR in from Vic 6 months ago I was told that it had to go through Dickson even though it came via a compliance shop/dealer, just didn't need the identity check part. Just ring the motor registry and ask.

Nah, didn't think to take a before picture, but they were pretty well oxidised. I've used one of the restoration kits on my other Skyline with all the various grades of wet and dry etc, but that method ^^^ came up better. A lot less work too, battery shoe polisher FTW

Here's what I used to clean mine. Meguires Medium Cut Cleaner and a ten dollar battery operated shoe polisher off Ebay lol. Finished off with a coat of VuPlex, which is basically the same as Plexus for cleaning and protecting plastic. Comes up all right, eh? (pic was taken at night, with a mobile phone).....

I had an X-Force turboback system on my old R33 GTS-T and it seemed like a reasonable quality system, although I recall the guys at Powatone saying it was a bit of a bastard to fit. I'd also be asking how loud it is without the silencer, unless you like having that big bung in there.