AlexCim

flasher cam?? Please explain...im still a skyline n00b (stagea n00b, same thing)

alright, well, as the tittle says they dont work (none of them, not hazards either) the dash lights dont light up (the little arrows), the outside ones dont light up and there is no clicking noise. nor do the hazards. I have checked ALL bonnet and cabin fuses(behind coin thing) Also, the stalk doesnt make the "click" noise when only pushed 1/2 way, but the hazards thing does. EVERYTHING else works fine, its just this dammit (worst possible thing to go as well!! I am making signs out the windows like old school 1900 mercs and stuff!!) Does anyone know if the stalk is the same as an R33? Rough price or anything? What would/could have broken, anyone know? Is there any other control unit or something for the car?

What about their temperature range of each sensor, are they the same?

Well, i said i would and i did. I dont think it affects the bonnet at all structurally. I covered it with some aluminium so water and stuff wouldnt go in. A mod like this will mean cleaning the air filter a lot more, BUT, i think i will get the coldest possible intake temperatures and positive pressure in the airbox at almost any speed. I just bought aluminium sheeting from bunnings and basically pushed it into place, folded the sides and then rivited them on. I do want to make it look a tiny bit less home job, but for now, i guess it will do. I am tempted to put sometype of mesh behind the grill to make it not tke in leaves and stuff, but i dont really think it matter

well, i have the jaycar EBC installed, running 7ish psi most of the time. Its 100% all load points, but i still find it to stay off boost (2.2k under easy load is 0psi) now, i thought it could be the oxy sensor, which causes my shitty fuel economy. i currently get about 300km out of 65lt. Drive like a woman most of the time, DEFINATLY keep below 4k most of the time. Anyway, o2 sensor... 170 ex jp, 2 week wait. Now i have a DFA here too and i am wondering, if i tune the dfa before i get the new sensor, will there be any issues when i install the new oxygen sensor after the dfa is tuned? i dont want to spend cash to tune/petrol for tune if im gonn have to do it again, i may as well get the thing done right from the start. opinions please.

Well, as for at home mods Jaycar EBC/DFA + tune (paid to someone) ($500) Sway bars ($400) Strut brace (unlucky like me) ($250) Coilovers ($1500) FMIC kit ($1500) Exhaust (sorta pay someone, if it has right mounts, it a DIY job) (inc dump/front/cat/catback) ($1500) CAI for airbox/pod ($50) Pod/Air filter ($100) Fuel pump (should be find to DIY if you are remotly mechanically minded) ($400) ** EDIT ** Do turbo and exhaust manifold at the same time. This is DIY, done it to an S14 takes a few hours ($2500) That should bring you somewhere around 10k

As par the topic, photo is below of what i need PM me offers please Alex

Well, in my quest for improving my fuel economy (current i do 150km/half tank) i am pooling all the previous threads into one for anyone searching on how to improve the fuel economy. First, i would like to note my car is standard, high flow panel filter, cold air intake and jaycar EBC set 7/10psi. I normally drive on 7psi. I am a normal driver, not a hoon. City driving. Tips to improve economy: * Change the O2 sensor if its really old (60,000+) * Check spark plugs, gapped to 0.8mm * Jaycar digital fuel adjuster (getting mine tuned this weekend, will let you know results) * Fuel filter, replace it * If you have a Jaycar EBC, set it to 100% the WHOLE rpm range, meaning boost comes on later * "On the highway you can drive for miles without the converter locked up unless you do the following: establish the cruise speed - say 100 - 110 km/h, then throttle back until you get 12-14 inches of vacuum , then gently press on the accelerator until your boost gauge reads 5-8 inches of vaccum, and then you should feel the converter lock up, after which if you modulate the throttle smoothly, you can drive it like a manual unless you go into boost, whereby the converter drops back off the lock up and your fuel economy suffers again." * An exhaust should imrove things also * "An interesting fact my Brother in law told me (mechanic) that driving with AC on is more efficient than with the windows down on long, highspeed trips. so just keep that in mind when testing to see if better fuel economy without AC, don't wind the window down" * Make sure you tune your car after any modifcations. Pod/Filter/Exhaust etc all make the RB's richer...odd i know. * Keep car off boost, however this may result in really slow driving. Anyone else got anything i can add? Cheers

This design was sorta taken from sydney kid, but i made mine without the deflector plate. Its pretty easy to design, i just used a bit of paper and then cut it from gal steel. I had no Al, so i just used what i had. I bend the sides over and riveted them on... its pretty bloody study. I am holding the whole thing in place with bolt, rather then the standard thing. Its bloody hard to put those bolts in because its hard to get UNDER them. Thats why one is up and one is down... All up took about 2 hours from design, cutting, fitting etc. I used about 10 cutting things with the dremel, i really wish i had a band saw! On another note, i dont know if there is any difference. it does seem to be a little smoother, but i mean, nothing off its head with power. Probably no power gain, but good mod for cruising etc. I am going to cut into my bonnet where those three "channels" are and make it into one huge open channel. I think ill see a big improvement then specially with my high flow panel filter...

dimmer switch is a requirement for compliance...maybe some workshops rip dodgies regarding that. also, mine is also dim...the dimmer switch only makes it dimmer! USELESS!

wow, its that savage?! i may look into tuning my DFA sooner then later(waiting on exhaust), i need to improve my fuel economy, i think im getting around the 18L/100 area with 9psi boost! but damn does 10 feel faster then 7 though... Will i need to remap the DFA if i want to drop or increase boost in the future. Also, when i get an exhaust its retune time right?

OK, ITS OFFICIAL, my ebc is ****ed!! that resistor didnt fix anything... i replaced LM2940 and it still does it. I think ill just buy a whole new kit and keep this broken one as a track car type of a thing, where i only need 1 load point

CRAP.!!! I fried a resistor!!!!! ARGH Happend while switching from high to low boost...the stupid switch jaycar provides stays inbetween open or closed for too long and it just fried.... i replaced the resistor and its still screwed.... Its stuck on load point 64...lucky, high boost is 10psi there and low is 7psi there so i got it on low for now....get ready for a fun weekend of diagnosis! Btw, its the resistor infront of the little upright IC with teh heatsheild, its a 10R resistor...(i think i fried the IC)

can i drop the boost even more then 6-7psi with a smaller vent(more push onto the actuator)? What results will this have with my gear shifts etc Thanks SK

Oh also fellas, when i set my duty cycle to 100% the whole input range, using the std stagea restricter as my vent, how come i cant drop the boost below 7PSI. I thought at 100% it would drop to standard... If i was to fix this with a smaller vent, wouldnt that have problems with my boost spiking issue before which needs a larger vent?

Well, i have gone and purchased whiteline swaybars. I went into autobarn and the guy said he can do them each at 200, so i got the pair for 400. They should be in store in probably about 1 week, so ill update everyone how they go when i install them

Ok, Well i have done my boost controller install and tune this weekend. I have to admit, its very very good at holding boost. I have however some odd problems. I also find that my stag stuggles to hold boost a bit. I had to drop the duty cycles at high rpms quite a bit to get it at the right boost. I want to use 9-10psi, and at 5500 i need a duty cycle of about 64 to keep that, where at 4000rpm its up at 80. Is that difference too big? (sign of turbo wear or something?) First, teh stagea is 100% standard but an autometer boost gauge and a pipercross filter. Anyway, my other problem. I get boost spikes. I have hooked it up all right, but between 1 and 2, i get boost spikes to about 12psi. I was thinking this could be due to the fact that my vent isnt big enough/or too big? The above idea looks good, but where do i buy such a 1 way valve to plumb it in? I think i will do it like above.

I wouldnt use such resistors on turbo cars for the exact reason given above. N/A could be assumed to run rich the whole RPM band, not turbos.

Its tricky, it all depends how you have your priorities. In the end, i say the std stagea body kit is pretty damn ugly, i mean, i dont like it. The DAYZ is a really nice, S15 looking touch. The way i see it, front bars, rear bars etc are all disposable items. I dont want to spend $2000 on a body kit and then hit a wombat in the hills and smash the front bar to peices. I would spend a few hundred on a DAYZ copy front bar. If i was going to spend $2000, i would rather buy a turbo or coilovers/swaybars or something else... i guess thats just my priorities...not everyone wants a performance wagon (i mean, big numbers)

I was actually thinking that too, Burns has a melb stag too, and there are a few others.... only like 3 people would rock up We will see then... 2 months...mmm, plenty of time to mod

i think its more a "oh look, there is lots of demand for them" type of a thing not all stagea owners are enthusiasts like us (use the term "us" loosly). Some just see them as just a station wagon (*cough cough* cops *cough*)

Well, the brand is X-force, but does anyone know about quality. http://www.rzoneperformance.com.au/product...ust&make=Nissan The options i have for an exhaust are either buy the full r33 one (prefered, as all in one) but i bet the cat flows shit, and i dont want welds and so forth breaking. I could get something custom made up, with www.bosimporting.com.au parts for about 200 muffler, 300 cat back, 200 hi flow cat, 250 dump/front = 950... so very similar Anyone for any opinions? Thanks EDIT: This guys shop is right next to me, so no shipping costs. Reference http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=101497

I read it, sweet, thanks. I am really following in your path, EBC/DFA, pipercross on the way, same with R34 GTT cooler...sway bars on the near future.. You had a head start

Oh also, to add, does the same go for EBC and the 10 and 20 Mhz things? In the pictures, they dont look like they did solder them to the pcb at the top... Also, how did you hook up the EBC in the stagea? I guess ill just dig through this thread, would be good if someone could clean it up. I see the photo on page 2, but is the restricter in there somewhere? It isnt is it? Otherwise the restricter would limit boost before the EBC right?

Just need to ask, do i need to solder the 4Mhz thingo into the PCB at the top via a pin? the guy who posted pics soldered it onto something, do i need to do that? Apart from that, im done! Boost controller tomorrow, car should be here late this week