Antek

Don't look to hard in to it mate, it was a simple self clarification test.

Yep, the problem has now been fixed.

right o, Ill get the timing light light onto it this evening.

right-o well.. cheers for the input fellas once again, I been out in the shed looking over all the pipe work on the induction side, yet they came across tight as i wiggled every one of the with some decent force though, it wasn't until i came across a section that was tucked away were i noticed a seep of oil that seemed to spread it self.. long story, lose clamp..

I have, though i will do a through check tomorrow, I did find one lose pipe.. I replaced the clamp. What do you mean by "slipping into 2"

No so, I can gradualy accelerate and its fine all the way up so long as its not under complete pressure. When i apply full throttle it is fine until boost starts to come on at around 4.5-5+rpm it just seems to almost starve it self self all the way up witch is were i littler cannot take it to. As i mentioned before in my previous post when it first occurred it did seem like something popped, what it is and were it was is a mystery for the moment, but the noise that occurred defiantly contributed to the problem.

I am too having this issue since upgrading my turbo last week ( yet to be tuned), I opened it up on the freeway the other day, all was going well until i got a pop of air from the engine bay and lost boost, all pipes have been checked and only found one lose which did not fix the problem. I have been told the intake manifold gaskets are known for giving in and have been recommended to replace the gasket with silicon??

yes the crank angle was marked, I'm thinking its just running very rich, thanks for the input.

Just a quick question fellas, I changed the timing belt on my r33 s2 det last night, all went reasonably well.. This morning i took if for a drive and every thing seemed fine until I entered the freeway and opened it up a bit, as load and pressure built up above 4.5-5 rpm + It seemed to bet a significant loss of power, now I would also like to mention that I have upgraded the turbo due to the turbo spitting it self the other day, the up grade was from standard - to a Garrett T3/T4 Hybrid A/C CHRA Conversion. (Car not tuned yet)? is it a possibility the crank angle sensor could be 1-2 mm off even though i make it? or is it just running very rich etc.. I know this is not the right topic , a link to the correct topic would help or some insight would be appreciated.

Done...

cheers mate, thanks for the help.

Question, once I have aligned the the marks for inlet,exhaust and crank, i then remove the tensioner, once the tensioner is removed / released ,will the belt want to move the cams from the original set location because of the tension lost ? if so how is this avoided or rectified? one other question, just to clarify, the harmonic balancer retaining bolt is L/H thread or R/H?

Sweet, Any other things / tips i should look for and be changing aside from the water pump that people car recommend.

Melbourne, Northcote area. I have had a look at the step buy step procedure, I guess i am just not 100% in lining up the timing belt marks.

Would any one experianced and that has done this before be interested in teaching me / helping me replace my timing belt and water pump? I have a suitable garage and tools minus the puller.

In regards to upgrading an AFM on a reasonable stock r33 rb25det or highly modified so to speak, what benefits will the z32 AFM have?, is the component compatible with the stock computer system( aside from the connecter), is the AFM an instant up grade( plug and play?) or does it require software for it to be unlocked in order to reap the full benefits.?? I also wonder..is the the z32 AFM the only upgrade that is highly looked upon? or is their other AFM options out their? Im guessing their is a link to an already discussed thread?? if so, send this silly prick the link

do you have the electric a/c thermo fan?

hi mate, do have you got the a/c thermo fan?

sup man, have you got the a/c fan

hi mate have you still got the front pipe? and fmic?... keen on both pm me if so

you still got the intercooler bud? if so how much? send me a pm with price etc..

In order to fix your idle problem, i recommend blocking and repairing any vacuum lines, ( block any lines that lead to know were start the car listen for changes), look at a engine diagram of the vacuum lines on the net and find out were they go to, in some cases its only a matter that the carbon filter or other have been removed and its causing an air leak witch then relates to your rough idle ( it rectified my problem) check for cracks on your coilpacks, heat spots on your leads, if degraded, replace with new ones, also remove the cover that covers the coil packs, its only their for looks really,and will trap a lot of hot air witch will lead to the same problem, just don't wash or be careful when washing the engine use compressed air and a cleaning spray, aside from that do all your basic things like air filter clean it, o2 sensor and so on, you will be amazed at how basic it is once you find it. hope that helps if not their are a few other methods that can be done ( usually the problem is staring you right in the face)

have you found a solution, I'm interested to find out what the out come is?

sorry for the language, but what a f**ken flamin mongrel! i live in alphington and you got me worried now.. will defs keep my eyes open for the prick!!

set of r33 series 2 rims with tyres with approx. 70-80% tread 205/55/r16 no scuffs, no cracks, minor paint fade in the middle, great condition over all, pm me for more details $375 Exhaust in great condition no cracks no rust, bolt from cat back $100 pm for more info