Godzilla32

Ok, i was mainly just after a good auto turbo timer.

Fair enough, your destroying my dreams lol

Ive had a Greddy one that runs off the RPM before and it sucked. They reckon the Apexi one can tell you the A/F ratio. Thats pretty cool. I can't see it being that bad...1.5 mins would be ok. I used to run mine for 1 min manually....Anyway i cant use it so why am i talking about it lol.

Ok thanks for that. Still disappointed lol

Did you take a close look at the coil packs for hairline cracks? This may not even be a ignition problem. Hard to say without witnessing the problem first hand. Intermittant faults are tough to diagnose so good luck with it mate

Hey everyone, i just read that you can't use the auto function on a BNR32. Apparently its to do with the car using titanium o2 sensors. Has anyone got a BNR32 and managed to have it work? I had planned to buy one of these for that reason alone... Deren

I replied there..

The one you have circled saying is where pressure comes from is actually the vacuum signal for the stock blow off valves. So leave that one alone. The rear most pipe of the other 2 is the one that goes to the recirculation pipe that is plumbed into the rear turbo intake. The other goes to the wastegate actuators. When i last installed an AVC-R i got the installation manual from the USA Apexi website here: http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/45.pdf

This topic has been covered previously. Search

Hehe, the old cleaning around the butterflies trick. On an RB26, bad, bad idea.

From what i can tell you said it has spark on all 6, and you have isolated it to number 6 as there is no change when the coil pack is not connected. So you are right in thinking it may be likely to be a fueling issue. Next check to make sure you have injector signal pulse on number 6. If you have pulse then it has to be the injector itself. There are special 'Noid' lights that plug directly into the injector plug and a light in them flashes to identify the pulse. If you can't get one of them i'd say you could use a test light.

The injectors are quite noisy, as are the solid lifters even when shimmed to factory tolerance. You can isolate the noises by giving the engine a race while listening. You will notice the injectors cut out on engine decelleration. If the loudest noise goes away in this situation then its the injectors Another option is to use a proper stethescope or just a screwdriver on the suspect and the other end pressed on your ear. By the way engine oil wont change lifter noise in a Rb26, as mentioned they are a solid lifter arrangement and do not require hydraulic pressure to operate. If they are noisey the only way to quieten them is to re-shim. Hope this helps, Deren

Part number is: 16636-72P00

Have you removed the original recirculation plumbing? IE: the 'y piece'..? If you aren't connecting the hose to the 'y piece' anymore then, yes you will have to connect the EBC to the intake pipe of one of the turbos.

Thanks mate, i was thinking the other day just since moving here to QLD the amount of cash ive poured into the GTR i could have easily bought a $30,000 sports car It'll be one nice GTR but if there was no accident to spur me on to do this build i could have had 2 sports cars. My dream is to have an S15 as a daily car.. Deren

Ok sorry in the pic the blue hose looks like its just a blanking cap but its just the pic that makes it look like that. So anyway its going to where its supposed to go. Your right about the other hose, it is the turbocharger intake vacuum signal. It goes from the recirculation pipe y-piece and is normally connected to the top most pipe that runs behind the head. It comes out on the intake side of the engine and then is connected via a hose to the front port on the stock boost controll solinoid. So in other words just connect it to the port on your EBC that requires to be connected to the intake of the turbo. Hope this helps Deren

I would highly doubt that different wheel/tyre size could damage any of the mentioned driveline components. Check for metal on the magnetic drain plugs. That will tell a pretty good story of the condition. In my experience, stick with the same size wheels/tyres on a gtr. Although i have heard of people doing that purposly, something about giving more front torque earlier?!?

No problem, Yeah bleeders like caliper bleeders are located on the ABS unit. One is closer to the firewall than the other. Thats the rear one. You bleed the front one first then the rear one. Do that after you have bled the system as per usual. Deren

I have a pic here of my engine that shows the vacuum lines... The hose in your pic #1 goes from the vacuum pipe to the pipe thats joined to the o2 sensor harness bracket and then from there (where the blue termintor cap is) another hose should go to the rear turbo wastegate actuator. Deren

Kinda hard to tell acurately what filter and oil is good for your engine until you see what the internals look like. Im pretty certain i'll be using penrite synthetic 10 and a ryco filter or genuine. I've seen testing done on all the big name oils and the results were suprising!

You can bleed the ABS unit if you wish. Disconnect the battery, bleed calipers as per usual then bleed the front nipple of the ABS unit then the rear nipple. Deren

Some more pics of ancillaries fitted Its getting closer now! Things still to do: Have the plenum, twin turbo pipe and the feed from the rear turbo chrome plated Purchase, assemble and fit the Earls external oil return Purchase and fit all new Samco coolant hoses and vacuum tubing Ultrasonic injector clean and flow check

A few quick shots. Looks a bit of a mess at the moment, needs to have cables plugged in and tied away. Dirty finger marks cleaned off. Still, its coming together and looking pretty sweet. The end result will be one clean Rb26 unit!

Hey Geoff, No they have advised me that is a bad idea and wont be necessary. They are very finely machined so only about 1 thou clearance around them to prevent sticking throttle plates. Will at JHH actually advised me the idle may actually be too low initially and require extra bypass air or even to have to crack the throttle plates a tiny bit. Now wouldnt that be nice Would really make the $600 worth while. Considering i have spent well over a $1000 dollars on trying to fix these bastards now im hopeful its fixed! Shame i didnt know brand new ones from Nissan were available to me at $1000 bucks complete with linkage arms etc. RRP might be more though. Ron, i have kept busy Originally I had them done at a place in Melbourne, but the business was going down and screwed me over. So i wouldnt reccomend them for the simple reason of...I just had them redone properly! Look for automotive engineering shops that do alot of machine work on late model jap engines and you will find some of them do a fair bit of throttle body work.

Sounds possible that the belt is out a tooth. Would explain it all.