Godzilla32

There is a splined shaft that runs the CAS off the front of the exhaust cam. It also has a keyway to locate it and i guess if that wasnt fitted correctly you could stuff it when you tried to wind it over.

Its also a crucial part of fitting a timing belt and not optional by any means. You should set belt tension on the longest length of belt after the crank pulley, and lock the tensioner. Then you MUST wind it over 2 full revolutions by hand and re-line your marks to check they are still as they should be. Crack the tensioner bolt once more and recheck tension if it is a spring adjusted tensioner. Good luck with the car mate. Seems strange that the CAS was ok before you did the belt change but not after. Stranger things have happened though Deren

So the belt is on correctly with all your marks lined up correctly? Correct tension so it hasnt skipped teeth? If i was still in melbourne id gladly come take a look. Sounds interesting and i'd like to figure out whats gone wrong. Try winding the engine over by hand and see how it feels.

Sounds like it'll be a fuse inside the car. Make sure they are all deffinetly ok. I cant tell you which fuse it'll be cuz i dont have a R33 sorry mate.

Is it cranking over normally or does it sound different? Check for vital signs IE: spark, fuel, check compression. Narrow down which you dont have. Its impossible to work out whats wrong by guessing. Need to do a process of ellimination.

EGR is actually for lower combustions temps resulting in lower NOx emission. Its all about emission control.

Just put it back as it should be, people do things for strange reasons. More than likely at some stage someone has had a aftermarket boost controller attached and they required a direct feed of manifold pressure. Get a mirror to help you see with a torch to shine onto it. Deren

I take offense to the comment about mechanics not being technitions and only guys that can tune cars to run good 1/4 mile times are technitions. What a load of absolute crap. You have to know your bread and butter before you can make them faster. Its harder if anything to diagnose a problem on a car whether it be standard or not, than to go out bolting parts onto a car to make it faster. I was the same before i started out as a mechanic, thinking i could do it all and thought why do we need trained mechanics. Trust me guys, try working in a workshop and see how much of it you can actually do yourself or have half an idea about. I agree that if you can't afford the upkeep on a car comfortably ie: fuel, maintenance, etc you shouldn't be driving the thing. It would mean a hell of a lot of people out there without cars! So many unmaintained cars run into the ground.

The bulb is on the way out. Hitting it causes the filament to rejoin and it works until you switch it off and it cools. Buy a new bulb they arent expensive.

All those noises pretty much sound like wear indicator sounds. Check that they have actually been fitted correctly and that the wear indicator isnt rubbing on the rotor. Deren

It is supposed to be fixed to the body with an insulator pad (rubber) the noise you hear is the solenoid moving to adjust boost. Very normal. Not completely sure why you dont hear it when its just floating.

Well it has no physical EGR on it. My engine has been on the stand for about 6 months, i have pulled it completely down and rebuilt it myself and i can assure you there is no EGR piping, valve, actuator, etc. Perhaps the wiring has also been used for other models which do include EGR. I could be wrong but i thought perhaps the RB20 had EGR?

Blue smoke is generally more an indicator of burning oil. White smoke can be just condensation. Grey smoke is carbon build up generally. While you were driving it with the pipe busted, you have probably carboned up the exhaust nicely with all the over fueling due to less volume of intake air but the same amount of fuel. If it was the oil seal on the turbo you'd think it would be blowing smoke under acceleration aswell wouldnt you? None of this really explains the lack of performance though. Well besides perhaps stuffed plugs after driving it for that long with the busted pipe and over fuelling? Its all hypothetical but things to check out none the less. Good luck mate, Deren

Then what makes you think it is EGR equipped?

Im not sure about later Rb26's but my RB26 out of the R32 doesnt have any form of EGR.

Yeah i kinda know that feeling lol. Only have to read my signature

We have that freeze stuff at work. Im not sure how much it actually helps. Just keep up the WD-40. One reason it may be hard to undo is if the whole pipe is moving around while your trying to crack the flare nut that will be absorbing alot of the effort so trying to brace it from moving with another tool without damaging the pipe might help you to crack the nut. If there is flats on the other connection you are undoing it out of use another spanner on them and position the 2 spanners so they are not too far from each other and then with your hands just squeeze them both together. That technique is very useful Hard to explain on here though. Or as mentioned use a decent pipe spanner and then either another one locked into the other end of it or a metal tube over the end of it and give it a sharp hit with the palm of your hand and it should crack it. Good luck mate, Deren

Item: RH (Drivers side) R32 GTR Headlight Age: Original item Condition: Good Price: $125 To Fit: R32 GTR Location: Brisbane Contact: PM or Call 0402 829 091 ONLY RH Head light pic

Progress has been slow due to lack of funds lately. Getting back on track slowly now though. IN the next week or 2 i will get the chrome plated parts back and post of picks before and after fitment. Next to come is the external oil return and parts necessary from Earl's perfomance plumbing. All up its only $160 including delivery. Not too bad. Then i'll be saving for all the new Samco silicone hoses and a injecter flush and flow check. Any thorough places you guys can suggest in brissy? I have a few places in mind but want a quality job done. Deren

Hicas on the R33 is electrically controlled. Only the R32 uses hydraulically controlled Hicas. Just disabling Hicas is only stopping the continual rear toe adjustment (which is what Hicas does). You also will need to set and lock the toe correctly to achieve a proper wheel allignment or else the car will crab on the road and chew out tyres as you will be constantly trying to counter the badly alligned rear toe.

Im pretty sure the stock boost control solinoid in an R33 is only used for emergency boost control. It doesnt normally control boost

Inlet valve guides will cause oil to be burnt if there is too much clearance. The vacuum of the intake stroke will suck oil down the guide and be burnt.

If the scratches are that deep it'll need a rebore. Which will require new OS pistons.

Yeah its a standard wheel allignment adjustor. On the upper and lower arms. Any idea what they usually sell for?

Looks like my RHF wheel speed sensor harness. Going in the right direction too. Check if you can find a similar one on the other side of the engine bay. It will be mean't to go to the LHF wheel speed sensor.