Pete_Repeat

Yep I am fearing the worst now. It seemed lower down, possibly bottom end. I'll use a hose to inspect more. It seems 2nd hand motors are about $4k plus minus with a quick search.

First up, Anyone want to comment on suggested mechanics in south West Sydney (I live in camden) that are good with V36? Seems I may have big problems with my v36. Loud knocking sounds at just over 1k rpm. Nothing at idle. Was hoping an oil change would help, nope. Was hoping it was the VVEL but not convinced as its quite loud knocking, almost like a bottom end sound but seems higher in the engine. Although it's gone at idle. Not sure how or if disconnecting the VVEL solenoid would help diagnose its not that. Gut feeling is its a rod end and this is going to be expensive. No engine lights, no oil pressure lights, just the noise. I admit I let the engine oil cha he go for too long. It has now been changed. Nothing in the oil at least, other than being black. Anyone want to suggest anything for diagnostics? Should I disconnect the VVEL solenoid to see if the sound disappears? If so, any pointers. Anyone want to guess the repair costs if you have suspicions of what it is.

I'm assuming the solenoids are under the cover. Blue plugs I have read... Other than standard servicing I haven't done any work under the bonnet of the car yet..

Is it OK to disconnect the vct solenoid to check if the problem goes away? I realise the engine light is likely to come on. I'm going on holidays tomorrow so a full flush and Oil change will be done when I return in hope that fixes the problem. Juwt tot two trips left in the car... Hopefully

So if I disconnect the blue (??) plug at the front (??) of the vvt gear it'll help diagnose first?

I know this has been discussed and I have read a little bit however just hoping to get some feedback specific to my scenario as it'll be a week before I can attend to the car. My v36 seems to have a sound like a rattle gun around 2.5k rpm and mainly on light acceleration. As in barely touch the electronic throttle it makes noise, lift fully off the throttle and it goes away completely. So it makes noise cruising around 90km/h to 110km/h, but with a full lift of the throttle or put the throttle down a little more due to a light hill or accelerate and it disappears. Seems like the vvt actuator assembly yes? These are electronic so linked with the throttle sensor? Hopefully an oil flush and change of oil may fix it? I'm guilty of only topping my engine up and it's in need for a service (almost 20 thousand km = shock). It was good oil...

Yes towing is an option offered.. But if I go with their suggested repairer then once it's towed there for assessment I just grin and bare the wait... Which even if they offer 30 dollars a day rental car (they offer a generous 5 percent discount so higher than that) then that could cost close on 2k in rental charges if it takes 2 months. I'm at fault so there is no rental cover from them. I understand any place will have to wait for parts, just trying to reduce the risk as once it's there it's staying there. A few days this end working the beat option seemed better than rushing to start it.

Wish I had the same option. My other car (2001 range Rover) that I use for off road is "resting" at the moment so no go. My wife needs hers.. Rental car is out of question for that length of time. Or maybe buy a bomb and sell it at the end otherwise.

I hear you. Seems like I need to prepare for 2 months at least worth of being without the car = ouch. I'll chat with the repairer about options to minimise the car being off the road waiting for parts.

Out of curiosity. If I pop the hood with the air bags deployed will I be able to remove the struts and put the bonnet down? I think they may be required for the multipoint anchorage so dummy struts would be needed but hoping they can just be removed. I understand legalities might be questionable.. But at least for the drive to get assessed. I'll check with the place first that they can assess with the air bag struts removed already however.

Great. Thanks for that. I will have a chat with them. On another note, I bit the bullet and bought the Phoenix radio under the basis of a refund within 30 days of receiving it... So no pressure getting my car back now ?

Sorry I meant Shannon's wouldn't write it off. So the delay was from not using one of their prefered repairers or more to it? I'm afraid to lose my car for too long. Not that I can drive it as is.. Unless I took the air bags out and shut the bonnet (likely not legal and my insurance company are aware plus not sure if dummy supports are needed once the air bag struts are taken out..). Problem I have with their prefered repair place is that while they say it's a faster commence time, I won't have any opportunity to say anything once they have. So grin and bare the estimated time they give = hands tied.

Oh now this is not something I'm looking forward to. Had a minor bump and the pedestrian air bag went off. Minor cracking bar only. So anyone around Sydney had a workshop fix this that didn't take 5 months as mentioned above? Happy for a ride off but it's insured for 25k so surely Shannon's woukd ride it off. Hmmm. Hadn't realised the headaches with an import car until now.

Thanks Chris. I've had a look. That's option 3 for an Android option. Seems like about $AU850 for a system for a non-us nav system. Might sit on it and think for a bit. Do things myself = cheap but effort which is best spent elsewhere at the moment. Buy the phoenix which works well for me with split screen and ability to change the launcher I believe but some element of risk. Buy the vlink system which is likely more reliable and less risky, but uses the low res screen in the 2009 plus its the most expensive but not by a lot.. I'll need to see the restrictions on the phoenix and the vtek system. As both are running android with a big skin change so customising might be limited on these systems. Hmm time to ponder ?

Hmm so now the difficulty. This is more for other people's info and to help me think it through... But happy for feedback still, as I may have missed something. Do I stay using the aux in for video but move to dedicated box and take over the touch panel with the ar1100 based board. Run it all into the centre console. Would be the cheapest option (other than the screen mirroring of my phone that I'm alresdy doing). I guess it's about $200 of bits (android box + gps + ar1100 + 5V 3A power + external mic). It's not a great screen in my 2009 but it's ok for a car. Still a single point resistive touch, however some apps can simulate pinch to zoom but not in full. Unlikely to need pinch to zoom in the car anyway. Could look into external mic for google assistant. I can't see Bluetooth in my car for the past few weeks so I suspect hands free will be missing from this option. Also this could be a bit of effort to get right. Or now Phoenix are saying a 30 day money back policy.. Which I believe will cover their system if it doesn't work as hoped. I will need to return in new condition however. This ticks a lot of boxes for me... If it works. I want android. I want a larger screen. This is still a tempting job expect for the following. Concerns the screen isn't too viewable in sunlight. Concerns the relatively low res for the bigger screen isn't great pic. Although reports seem to say the screen is decent... Concerns that it doesn't function as expected so there is a lot of effort wasted time. Then the concern that phoenix make the return difficult. Plus the cost is around $750. But it ticks all my boxes if it comes off. Reason android is such a strong thing for me is that it will tie in with home automation running on tasker + home assistant + ifttt. So the gates can be opened from a widget on the car screen. I can automate my hotspot to turn on automatically and use Google music and maps on the car which is a big thing for me. I can get my calls and text to show on an android screen reliably. Plus naughty things like emails etc. And video when parked only of course. Or stick with screen mirroring wirelessly when I put my phone in the 3d printed wireless charge dock and rely on voice to get things happening, with some automation based on location and time of day.. By far the cheapest as I have it running already. But it's been like this for a bit now so it's nothing exciting. It takes its toll on the phone I would imagine as it gets quite warm even though my custom wireless charger dock has fans on it. If I wasn't wireless charging heat isn't as big a problem but that's not as sexy as just dropping the phone in the dock.

So you're saying something like below will or won't work? It's 4 wire resistive so was hoping (ar1100 based). I have something similar at work already but as I've have never pulled the dash apart I'm wanting to have some degree of confidence before I pull it apart that I have a possible solution waiting. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=163582810627&category=42889&pm=1&ds=0&t=1553895682862&cspheader=1&oversion=efed4d47 I already have the video input. Currently using wireless display from android. But will likely move to a dedicated Android box in the car if the touch may work.

Thanks Chris. That's great to know

How hard was it to connect the v36 touch panel to your usb touch board? Is the ribbon cable hard to get to? Does the touch panel have a fairly standard 4 wire 1mm pitch FPC cable so most ar1100 boards j at work? I'm now contemplating an android box plus external gps and the ar1100 for touch. Then installing an app that makes it possible to use the box like an android auto head unit, or just using it android unit.. Perhaps adding an external mic for Google assistant. It won't really suit split screen on the small screen like the phoenix screen does but I think it'll tick a lot of other boxes for me at a fraction of the cost. So thanks for getting me thinking about this option

I had thought that the driver for the screen (not the touch as I have the windows software to calibrate the touch panel) needed to be programmed for the screen that attaches to it... But I think I'm just being silly as you're using the aux input so no screen driver is needed. Hmm let's blame that on waking up too early on a Saturday.

Now I actually have a driver for a screen (ar1100 based off memory) and touch interface board for another project at work but reprogramming the board to suit the v36 screen is a big learning curve for me.

So no reply from Phoenix for a number of days. They seemed to ignore my request/question for a full refund if it didn't work on the v36 like it does for a g37. So unless they reply which is looking quite unlikely that they will, then this is the end of the road for me on that option.

Here's one like I had. This is Amazon America though. The miracast and composite out (rca) is the important part. Then just find one with good reviews. https://www.amazon.com/Mirabox-Mirrorlink-Wireless-Miracast-Mirroring/dp/B019ME7GA6/ref=pd_aw_sbs_0_2/132-5904877-1811039?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019ME7GA6&pd_rd_r=64373b2f-5069-11e9-998d-a9ae91c951bf&pd_rd_w=Vxvf5&pd_rd_wg=DjxtV&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=DP1RVY4FWP1WJK8NB6HE&psc=1&refRID=DP1RVY4FWP1WJK8NB6HE Because I already had one of these below I changed to this when I suspected the mirabox was playing up (although maybe it wasn't a problem after all and was my phone causing the drop-outs after more than a year of usage. https://www.jbhifi.com.au/computers-tablets/networking/microsoft/microsoft-p3q-00016-wireless-display-adapter-v2/981657/ And then convert its hdmi with one of these https://www.amazon.com.au/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01KXI8LZE If you get video interference then you may need a filter for the video. These can be found at jaycar if need be.

Ah ok makes sense, thus the comments about not caring about the dialler which I agree isn't overly useful. The touch isn't needed for much else in the v36 anyway except maybe the aspect ratio for aux which is set and forget. Or maybe even that can be carried out by the direction arrows as well. This is a far less intrusive thing to do. Just a little more work to get it right I guess. I like the sound of it.

I believe you specify if you have the Bose, no bossy, nav, no nav combos and they supply the right harnesses. The q50/q60 videos show oem harnesses and adapters

Sounds interesting. So how you dealing with the standard oem.info display? Is it just a touch overlay and your using the oem screen for the nuc and a switch to go between the oem info and the nuc? Or just not worrying about the oem info? Or managing to read it and display it on the nuc?