planrforrobert
-
Posts
40 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by planrforrobert
-
Anti Lift Kit for my 4Motion Bora
planrforrobert replied to PranK's topic in Suspension, braking and tyres
Your best bet will be a rear sway bar. One other thought would be an upgraded Haldex unit (software or hardware, but ideally software) to help the rear tires hook up. An anti-lift kit would help, but the rear bar would be an easier way to get your Bora to rotate.- 2 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- anti lift kit
- alk
- (and 1 more)
-
'Merica
-
It sounds like it. There isn't something obstructing the inlet on the pump, is there?
-
If you took the hoses off at the pump and aren't getting any flow, the issue is in the tank. If the pump was working correctly you'd have fuel everywhere. To answer your last question, you want to focus on the hose between the filter and the rail, removing it from where it connects to the rail. But start at the tank, it sounds like your pump isn't pumping.
-
Maybe you have the inlet and outlet hoses crossed? On the 32s that space is tight and they could easily get crossed. Easiest way to check is to pull fuel line going to rail and reroute it into a bucket. If you can crank it and fuel comes out, you know they are plumbed correctly. Also, what condition is your fuel filter in? A clogged filter could give you grief as well.
-
Just looked over their site, they have a handy chart in each lug listing and have options for the front and the rear. Thank you for that link!
-
I'm looking at BBS LMs currently. I have the hub-centric stuff handled (I work in the VW world and we deal with that as well). So far, the stud sellers are able to indicate how much longer than stock (i.e.- 10mm, 20mm, etc).
-
School me on extended lugs for my Skyline. The fronts are easy to come by, but I am hearing mixed things about the rears. Can you guys confirm or deny: - The rear studs are a different spline than the fronts. - My car shares studs with the 300zx. - What is the stock lug shank length? - How thick of a spacer can I safely run with the stock lugs? I am working on fun summer wheel options and the wheels I am keen on will require a 10-12mm spacer. Any help is appreciated, thanks all.
-
Same deal with the R32s.
-
I would confirm you are hearing the pump first. Then, if you are, pull the fuel line going to the fuel rail off and try to crank it and see how strong of a stream you have (you may want to just test for pressure). If those tests "fail" then I would pull the pump out and inspect everything.
-
Are you hearing the pump run? If no it may be a wiring issue. I remember remarking at how brittle/fragile some of the fuel pump wiring was, maybe something has broken with those. If you are hearing the pump run I would pull the whole assembly back out and make sure everything is installed as it should be.
-
To be clear, mine is an R32 GTST. I just realized I never made that distinction.
-
To be clear, mine is an R32 GTST. I just realized I never made that distinction.
-
It is a rubber gasket, not sealant.
-
It is a rubber gasket, not sealant.
-
It's the same as an S13 240sx. I found one here stateside at a local chain parts store.
-
It's the same as an S13 240sx. I found one here stateside at a local chain parts store.
-
I went with this pump: Any Walbro 255 or similar pump will work, and wiring is very straightforward. I am by no means a savvy mechanic, but install took me about 45 minutes (and that included cleaning surface rust off the sending unit). Make sure to replace the tank seal if you're in there.
-
So that's how a properly-fed RB should run, haha. New pump and tank gasket install was a breeze and the car fired up first try. It's like driving a brand new 25-year old car. Throttle response is there and it pulls pulls pulls. Thanks all for the help/insight suggestions!
-
The new pump arrived yesterday and I will be installing it tonight or tomorrow.
-
So, progress! Pushed the car into the shop tonight and was set on confirming I had spark and fuel. Started with fuel. Pulled feed line off fuel rail...it's dry. Did some testing of the pump wiring and everything pointed to the fuel pump being bad. To confirm the wiring wasn't the issue we pulled the pump out: Used a power probe to try and run the pump out of the car, it's dead. I'll get a new pump on order and (hopefully) finally get to enjoy my car.
-
A known good CAS landed at the shop today, installed it correctly...no change. Will still crank and crank but no start. Will be checking fuel pressure as well as testing to see if I have spark going to the coil packs tomorrow night.
-
Am I not able to edit posts after a certain period of time? At any rate, I will be testing fuel pressure at at the rail tonight or tomorrow, how much pressure should I see? 3 kg/cm2 (42psi)?
-
Just blinked out the codes using the instructions in this link: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/123312-reading-ecu-fault-codes.html 5 long blinks, 5 fast blinks: No Malfunction Time to turn my focus to the fuel system?
-
Stock MAF
