dave123456789

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About dave123456789

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  • Car(s)
    R32 gtr
  1. Apexi avcr type r wiring Can someone go have a quick look and tell me what colour wire goes to what on the boost control solenoid. It's got a pink and a greyish wire. What colours go to this as my plug is missing, I got two wires a pink and a red. Which one goes to which I assume pink goes to pink and red goes to the greyish one but would like someone to double check please thanks
  2. Cheers mate ill give that a shot.
  3. Hey mate I blocked the two lines going to the boost control solenoid and still only got 10psi i noticed neither was really sucking hard at idle when I removed the bolts I use to block it. if I blow in either one it make the idle note change. where to from here? Pretty sure no rags in my intake lol
  4. autometer boost gauge plumbed into the line going to the map sensor. still haven't tested driving without the wastegates connected as im unsure how to set that up. do I just remove the vacuum line to the actuator and just block it so I have the turbos there without any vacuum hoses going to it? car originally had a boost tap installed where the stock solenoid goes, I removed that and put the solenoid back in expecting to have a bar of boost.
  5. Yea stock solenoid. It's also got some cams and exhaust.
  6. Good idea ill give that a go and see if I get over 10
  7. Won't boost past 10psi Hi, r32 gtr, boost restrictor removed and still won't boost past 10psi. It's got a mines ecu would that make a difference? how do I work out what's wrong? I want 15psi and I thought removing the restrictor does that
  8. one has that guitar pick looking nut and the other has a normal nut which was looks like half of it shaved off, I guess for balance. my ceramic wheels look lighter in color that came off my car and these look different. guess they are steel wheeled. as mine here are rebuilt with steel wheels I was looking for a more exact way of knowing other than smashing it with a hammer or a magnet because magnets will not stick to either.
  9. Real helpful guys
  10. How you test for steel wheel or ceramic? How do you test for this? i have some turbos here that are suppose to be steel wheel upgraded.
  11. yea a powerfc is like what 400-800 bucks max here in nz. maybe a small bit more if has the commander. either way we all spend stupid amounts on our cars.
  12. 2500 for a powerfc? fark me. time to start hoarding and shipping them to the states. can get a link g4+ for a large chunk less than that and they are infinitely better. I have nothing further to add... except get a link.
  13. Shit that's clean
  14. Thanks for your input. Sounds exactly like my issue but I'm confident its not a tramlining issue, I'm running 265s. I have a suspicious looking tie rod in the rear which I doubt is helping and although the bushes look ok they have probably been there since the car was new. I have also notice the rear is a bit wiggly when accelerating hard, isn't a traction issue it just wallows around a bit. I'm also only putting out no where near your power, I'm probably not much more than stock. my plan of attack for this is hicas eliminator kit, all new bushing in rear including sub frame then go from there. Will do front bushings at a later date. will report back with hopefully positive news!
  15. Ok I am going to try that as that will eliminate one possibility. Wont be able to head out for a good test drive till the weekend though. Ah I understand now. Thought that was the hicas pump priming. Is it possible to fix the hicas or is it a bin it once its faulty situation?