Sneaker

Why are you selling them?

Yes the stanard guage does have the all important oil temp. Sorry I don't have any pics but you should be able to find some on this site. Just look under the for sale section?

Actually the front wheels engage not so much under traction loss but at high g-forces. When you put your foot down hard it kicks the front in to assist in traction - not letting it get to the stage of slip in the first place. If there is traction loss it assists depending on other factors of the car (lateral forces, steering position, throttle position, etc...) You can disengage the front wheel drive by removing the fuse to the attesa, making it a purely RWD car - required for 2WD dynos.

The Hicas system is uses the pwr steering fluid to run it's system. One of the warnings that you can get with Hicas is low fluid levels, which also means your pwr streering couls also be low (quite probably.) Check fluid and check for leaks around the hoses to the system. Leaks are not uncommon - GTR, GTS 300ZX, etc...

You should really do it on a 4WD dyno as the car acts differently between 2 and 4 wheel drive. The stresses are different in AWD against the engine. I am about to jump on the dyna-pac at Speedworks. A full retune of the standard computer along with dyno time should be about the $500 mark.

QUOTE (>GoDziLLa<)also if ur after little bits and pieces just ask as I might have it. ???

I believe it is a straight swap over as all the gauges are run off an electrical signal and should just swap in. Your sender for the boost guage might need an upgrade though. I'm not sure on that one, might be okay.

What are the rear speaker pods? Speakers themselves, or what they sit in - some craddle?

What sort of damage did the car get to to the rear? I am looking for a left hand rear hub assembly and a left hand rear steering rod. Both need to be in good, undamaged condition. PM me with prices. Thanks.

Why are you selling it?

The RB20 is quite different to the others. I'm pretty sure the water jackets and oil galleries are different as well, making the match up not possible.

Sounds like you have a really bad earth. Somewhere in your electricals when you put the brakes on the power is finding another path back through to other car parts. This would mean that your brake lights will also be dimmer than usual. To fix it? Try looking at your fuses first? Then look at where your loom, lights, etc... are earthed to the car. This is the most common cause, where the lights aren't earth correctly and therefore earth via other bits.

Any change in compression would always mean a retune. If I kept the 1BAR boost pressure, i would hang on to the standard computer as they are pretty good, and I am not running larger turbos, injectors, air flow metres, etc... I would probably change the pistons if I was looking at going as far as 9.0:1+. But could a lower compression of say 8.7:1 or 8.8:1 be achieved with a thinner metal head gasket?

I am considering uping the compression ratio on my GTR in the hunt for more accross the board grunt. I am not after peak power figures, I just want a more overall drivable package. I am in the process of doing extensive exhaust mods and eventually be running a max boost of 1BAR boost with a retune. This alone should give about 300kW. By upping the c/r I shouldn't have to change turbos, injectors or computer whilst increasing torque accross the board. I was thinking of about 8.7:1 to about 9.0:1. I realise that my maximum boost I can run will be lower but I want to keep the standard turbos, and only run 1BAR anyway. What do you guys think? I know it goes against traditional thinking of lowering c/r to up the boost, but I think this will be a better result for my driving requirements.

Sorry. Was away for a couple of days so I wasn't here to tell you that it does only lock the passenger window - but you found out anyway. Cool. Glad to here you got it fixed. Any idea how the water got in?

I will be sure to check it out. Need that license though...

The passanger window won't work if the drivers side isn't pluged in properly. This is because the system runs through the drivers side so the driver has the ultimate control and can activate the safety off switch. Have you tested the safety switch to make sure it hasn't stuck on or something? But check to make sure your drivers side is connected properly. I think it is separate from the drivers window plug.

The ones I posted "were" the ones I was going to get. I didn't have a picture of the ones I am actually getting which are a step above these ones again. The ones pictured are not the competition set which are the ones I have on order. I'll see if I can find some pics. Oh...and oil cooliers sound good. But seriously, if I end up doing track work I would definitly look at getting one. No plans for track work yet though.

Still had no concrete reply. Given that I have less restrictions in the system should I be aiming at only 0.9bar boost or less? So is it the shaft speed that causes the problems or purely the amount of boost?

Thanks heaps for the invite. I am working on Sunday so I imagine that I will finish too late (4pm.) But if you think it will be still going after this I am keen to check it out. Where is it? Time?

Which car have you driven? The GTiR or GTR? If you have only been in a GTiR then you are in for a shock when you get in the Skyline. The GTiR is a good car, out of the box putting a WRX to waste, but the GTR is another step again. What you have to decide is what sort of car you are after. What is your driving style? The Pulsar is a constant 4WD that is compact and is more suited against the WRX/EVO/Silvia group. They are goodfor the tighter twisty stuff. The GTR is a larger, heavier car that for the most handles like a RWD. It is usually competing against the Supra/HSV mob. The car isn't fantastic for tight stuff but let it loose on the open corners and straights and it won't be touched. It also boils down to the style of car you like as well. Whether is be 2/4 door, saloon/coupe/hatch and engine size. I would suggest you spend some time thinking about what turns you on and watch some of these cars in action on some of the DVD's that are available. Hope that helps.

That sounds like something I would be interested in. Might have to make contact and find out more about it.

Option 2. Go the extra and reap the rewards. The GTS and GTR are really such different cars. From the start the GTR standard will squash most things on the road. A few mods later and it is up there in untouchable basket.

Are you implying that I paid too much? They happen to be ceramic coated as well and they are not a HKS style set of dumps. These do not replace the standard set as the dumps are too long, that is why the complete set needs to be bought. What prices have you got?

If so that is good news, as taking out restrictions should also drop the thermal loading. I am putting on 9in long dumps that are ceramic coated so it should keep a lot of heat away from the turbo and engine bay. Does this sound right? Can anyone concur?