Sneaker

This unit hasn't been locked by any chance. Just making sure I can fiddle with it straight away.

Any pictures yet?

What height is the suspension? Lower than stock?

I have only just seen this topic. I know it's all over - but I want some! If there are any out there people don't want or there is another group buy please let me know. I need a pair for an RB26. Thanks.

They are a fantastic car! Giving a truly spirited ride. Will the give the WRX and EVO clans a run for their money. Heaps of torque! You didn't happen to tell them that you were really interested in this particullar wicked AWD car, model - R32 thinking in your head GTR and they went off and found VW? That would be funny!

Be interested to see how the fronts sound.

Turbos have to be removed, so might as well fit some extractors as well hey? Usually the heat shields don't fit back on but getting the pipes ceramic coated inside and out is a really good option.

I would take your standard ones out and take it down the road to see if they match up. I think that would be the easiest way. I have had success! I mangaged to fit 6 1/2" in the front of my car! It was a tight fit, with a bit of custom woodwork, but it is neat and looks standard. You would nevr know what was behind the standard grill which is a bit of a shame as the speakers look quite cool. They reside at a greater angle than the factory ones so they are directed at the occupants more. It was all done using the existing screw holes in the door as well with no additional cutting or drilling required, which also means it can be returne back to standard with the plastic speaker holders at any time. Now, time for a beer.

Already got one of those too. He basically said that the competition ones would be ideal for "competition" use. They would be overkill on a road car running standard turbos etc... He did say that these would cater for any future modifications to the car (larger turbos, much higher boost, etc...) I know that this part of the system on the car will never pose a restriction no matter what sort of upgrades I intend to do in the future - a main reason why I went all out, knowing I would never have to touch it again. All I can say is that without changing anything else on the engine, the car has been transformed. I am still getting use to how differently it drives. This product must be good as although I have not tested it on the dyno I can feel a definite difference almost right through the rev range. I don't hear many other people rave about the extra power or grunt they get from there car just by changing their dump and front pipes - in my case, I am super happy! I will soon know when I get it on the dyno for a retune and boost upgrade. I'm sure the area under the curve is going to be fat!

Profile is actually a percentage of the tyre width. Which is why when you go wider your profile has to be lower (percentage) to keep the right rolling diameter.

The GTR race team that was eventually banned from racing way back when had an interesting method for getting off the line. They had a delay switch fitted to the front wheel drive so that the rear wheels would spin and let the engine get to it's 6000rpm with the drive train 100% locked in. Then the ATTESA would kick in and load up the front. With this method there is no wear on the clutch and the drive train had an easy start. I would imagine the transfer-box would heat up a bit, hence, the transfer case cooler.

I went for the CES "Competition" pipes because of the quality of the product and that they were Australian made - I could actually talk to Trevor about what I wanted from the car and his product. The fact that they had done the improvement tests and could give a figure of the increase in performance, helped as well. They may not be as "neat looking" as the Trust/HKS ones but they work better in my opinion. And they are definitily not just copies. I think it is well worth spending the extra for the local product - and I am not speculating, I have actually had them fitted.

May be interested. Let's see what the price is for 15 units. Unfortunately, I just put the turbos back on the car. Won't be keen to pull it all off again. Oh well - the price of power!

I have just finished installing a set of Competition dump pipes from CES to my car. With no other changes, I would honeslty say the turbos kick in almost 1000rpm earlier giving a much needed midrange boot. The whole car seems to breathe better and you don't have to give it that little extra to get the good part of the power band. Apart from these (dump pipes and front pipes) I am only running pods and Nismo cat back exhaust and larger intercooler. I am still running the standard boost! The car really feels like it wants that extra boost now, and is going to fly when it gets it! These pipes were a great investment for my car and I highly recommend to anyone else the the CES product is the goods!

That's cool. I bought some nice Clarion 2-ways for the front the other day and am making up a new surround fr them now. I ended up getting 6 3/4 though because they sounded so good for a 2-way. It is going to be a bit of a challenge to get them in - just what I need! The 6 inch should also be tight but it will fit. I suggest taking the door trims off first and taking the bits apart to have a look at what you have to play with. Interestingly enough, they had a direct replacement 4x6 in the same series. They were only $140 a pair but I doubt they would have sounded as good. Still, save a lot of mucking around.

You can get good bass still out of 6". Just do your homework and look for ones that have low freq response. Even if you don't run an amp for the rear, get a cross-over to cut out all the high end sound to the speakers. I took my rear shelf apart tonight an it looks like new 6" will fit easy. I have also taken the small amp out that sits under the rear tray to make room for the new amp. May I suggest looking at a Jaycar catalogue as their range of speakers are top quality and are really cheap. I am getting my rears from there. I think they cost about $160 a pair and are designed for the low end (they are actually labeled woofers.) The catalogue gives all the specs of each speaker as well, which is how I know these ones are the ones to get.

What offset are they to suit? Are they GTR width or come in a little for the GTS?

Well, I'll tell you what I am going to do with mine. Traditionally with the other cars I have had (larger sedans) I have gone for good quality 6x9's in the back and smaller ones (5") up front, letting the rears do most of the work, with the fronts taking care of the high end and some of the mid range. This time because of a couple of factors I am concentrating on putting some really good quality 6 to 6 1/2" up front to deal with the whole range of sound except for some of the base. I am then going to have the rears replaced with 6" woofers that only deal with the low end of the scale and act as more of a filler to compliment the fronts. The fronts will run off te deck while the rears will run off a small amp that has a low pass filter on it so it can focus on the low stuff. This is a low power operation as I like quality and not just volume. If you want to upspec it then power all 4 speakers off a 4 channel amp (make sure the rears are still run through a low pass filter) with some high end splits up front. Then throw a 12 inch sub, box and amp in the boot. In my system I have tried to keep away from the sub and box for reasons of weight saving and boot room. This way I can still keep the standard look of the car (being the classic that it is) and still have a reasonable system. I personally won't be using splits because I don't want to mount the tweeters anywhere. I have found some really good 2-ways instead. Hope that helps. There is no extensive cutting and brackets required doing it this way as opposed to trying to get 6x9's to fit. Good Luck

There are a lot of sensor inputs that go into making the AWD work. There are speed sensors (hijacked from the ABS system), G-sensors, TPS and steering wheel position sensor. The idea behind it is that the car for as long as possible acts as a RWD. This means that it has the characteristics of oversteer the same as a RWD. The designers didn't want the problem of understeer that constant AWD have (WRX, early EVO's etc...) The important thing to remember is that the front wheels kick in to assist the car and can share anywhere between 0% to 50% of the engine load. 1. Straight line. When the power is put down the front wheels will kick in to keep traction so you get the grip that a WRX has. The more you put your foot into it the more the fronts come in. 2. Cornering. This is a little tricky as it almost works in the operate way. The more lateral (side - cornering) force the car is under the less the front wheels will kick in as this would provoke understeer. Instead, it will wait until the rear end breaks loose then when you go to correct it, pull the front wheels into action so that now all wheels are working to push you in the direction you are steering. This can be disconcerting for many new GTR drivers expecting a typical WRX type AWD experience. This does allow you to still positively steer the car whithout loosing ground from the rear end slide. You keep your foot planted and just point the car where you want to go, letting the front wheel drive pull you out of the power slide. Not to say it is fool proof, you can still get bitten, but careful practice can be rewarding. So to give you particulars on angles and so on is not possible as the whole system is adjustable depending on so many differing sensor inputs.

With your air con system off there should be no air come through at all, the system should close off. It sounds like you have a vent stuck open coming from the heat department. You should run a diag on it and see if all is okay.

Your the other guy with a blue GTR in Perth aren't you? I think there are 3 of us with blue GTRs.

I know this is an old thread but I thought there was no point in starting a new one. Can the Attesa from an R34 or R33 GTR be used in place of an R32? I know you won't get the active LSD without installing it, but you will get the better sampling rate. So is it a straight swap over, or more involved than that?

Yes it all is a bit confusing. I sat down one day and had a good play just so I could work it all out once and for all. I think I have most of it sussed. First of all, Air Con cold air actually works better and quicker as a demister than warm air does. When you first hit the A/C or ECON button this puts it into auto option and the car does whatever it needs to do to get it to the preset temp. If you press the same button a second time it will try and do the same, but without the aircon unit working (basically uses the air from outside to cool down.) You should notice the AUTO display disappear in this mode. Basically, this would be known as the "Fresh" mode on any other car, and is the mode I use the most. The difference between A/C and ECON? The only difference I can see is that I think the ECON mode has a different temp setting on the thermostat for the aircon unit so it turns off at a higher temperature. This is the case with most other cars with this set-up. It basically takes a little longer to get to the desired temp. It may also kick off when the car has the power put down when in ECON, but I think this actually happens in both modes. The MANUAL mode gives you the option of controlling the fan speed and vent selection, whilst the car still has the job of getting to the desired temp, again, with or without the aircon unit on. As far as I know there is no Fresh air option without the fan. I figure they thought that was what electic windows were for. Now. Go play!

Lucky bastard! He could always buy a car to suit!

Once again, why are you selling them? CAPA can be over-priced for items like that. I have been quoted $1400 for the same set new.