Sneaker

What dump pipes are you using? Are you running the stock FMIC?

Clarification: So 1bar worth of boost on the stock turbos seem to be okay? Is failure past this because of the actual boost or the fact that the turbine shaft speed is too fast causing delamination? The reason I ask is because I am about to undertake up grades in the way of a competition dump pipes and y piece as well as a retune on the dyno. I already have a larger free-flowing FMIC and pods. What worries me is that with all these mods I will have less restriction in the system and therefore less boost. If I then up the boost to 1bar I would imagine the shaft speed will be greater than a near standard system with 1bar. Am I on the right track? If so, should I tune for 0.9bar or even less? So is it the boost or the shaft speed?

It does sound like a gasket or oil pump problem which is why the heater hose may have come off in the first place. Whatever it is, it sounds bad. I would not do any more driving in it at all and get it towed to a workshop that knows what they are doing. You could start off with a compression test to see if it is a head gasket. What were you doing prior to the heater hose blowing?

Full dump pipes and y piece with 9inch wastegate runners. Should really scream! These are actually designed to go on for bigger turbos but will still provide superior flow to there other ones which I was originally going to get: (See picture) This system is still good giving much better flow over standard. Anyway I'm getting off topic. How neccisary is an oil cooler for every day use? I have no immediate plans to do track racing or put the car under such constant strains.

They should only be keeping good cats at most of the wreckers anyway. You can still get a secondhand good one if you look, just like buying a turbo. I did the same for an engine conversion about 6 years back and both are still going well. A cat can last for a long time as long as it is operated properly in the car it came from (correct fuel mixture, temperature.)

It wasn't a case of being "so cheap" rather being resorceful. That is why there are threads like these to find out what is done and what isn't and what parts are interchangable. How else are we supposed to know? I am the last person to be "cheap" when it comes to any of my cars, believing firmly in "do it right, the first time." I just spent $1700 on a set of competition dump pipes fo the car - doesn't sound like stingy to me. I am also sure that a lot of people do their own mechanicals here as well.

How much did that cost? Did you put it on yourself?

For your car see if you can track down a seconhand GTR one as they are great flowing from the factory and don't need to be changed unless you are looking at 450kw+.

Don't know but I am looking to do the same thing. I have an oil cooler of a VR Commodore auto that I can put on but I obviously need to get the adaptors to change it. Does an oil cooler for the engine need it's own pump? Is there a better kit out there that can be used? And if so what is the cost?

Mine loves the R. She is a good driver though and is use to the ceramic clutch on eh V8 which is a lot more brutal compared to the R. She is also a Paramedic so she is used to driving on Priority Ones - lights and sirens. She won't push it as much as I will but she won't get shown up either - just a warning.

In response from your original thread; I have found the guys at Welshpool are always of good spirit and fair. I have heard bad things of Warwick and also not to sure of East Perth. I have had only one Yellow and it was not on my import I have had for over a year. Actually I haven't been pulled over in the Skyline at all. The Yellow I got was for having a V8 in a Commodore that was only registered for a 6. Fair enough - I was in the middle of an engine conversion. But how did they pull me over? They actually weaved through busy traffic just to get to me. I wasn't doing anything stupid, just keeping under the speed limit. The car itself is immaculate. Makes me think that I would have maybe got one anyway for an "oil leak" or something else riduculous. You don't have to be rude to get a crooked sticker. If they don't want your car back on the road because of the car itself they will do it as well. I have seen it a bit with large body kits and dodgy looking cars.

Was that you the other day at the Farrington Rd lights? We had a quick chat, I was in the van.

R33. Purely because they are newer and have different cam specs and tuning. The power output is the same but there is more torque. It helped compensate for the increase in weight of the R33. The only drawback is that the computer is sealed an you will not be able to modify it. This won't be a problem if you are going aftermarket.

Would be a good choice too. Dare I say a better choice due to the larger capacity. Shame it isn't a simple drop in though. Could always use the RB30DE bottom end with GTR top.

It was more a comment about the superior handling the GTR will have over your car and that you would need an extra 50kW on your's to make up for that. Don't get excited about having extra kW because it is rear wheel only. The amount of loss through the front of a dirive-train on a GTR is minimal especially considering it is part time 4WD and only comes in to prevent loss of traction.

As far as turbos go you will need something like: GT2530's up to 2540's or equivilant. 2530's will probably be your best bet to make the torque curve fat. Upgrade to some 500+ injectors and that wil give you plenty of room for movement. Not sure, but I think a pump upgrade might be required as well. Tomei cams are good for torque but look around at HKS and Trust as well. There are as much aftermarket choices with the Skylines as there is with your Commodore engine so just do the same and hunt around the shops and internet sites for what is out there and prices. The import videos are good as they show what people runat the drags and then show how the car performs on the strip. Prices. Once you start replacing turbos the price jumps up. Think the same ballpark as putting a supercharger kit on a Commodore V8.

Yes buy off the shelf, or look around the second-handers for decent turbos. Do your homework on the turbos though. You can pick your cams out as well, just look for relevant articles on cam specs, even brochures. Cam gears you can probably fit yourself if you know what you are doing. Don't worry about custom manifolds as the standards are fine if you are aiming at 400kW. The engine really is ready to be pushed already. Should be an interesting project.

I think you will find that the Ecotec is a lot lighter than the GTR engine especially when you take into account turbo's etc... You can get 400kW to 450kW easily out of the engine. You need to look at some bigger turbos and bigger injectors as well as all the rest of the normal exhaust mods. Cams may be needed to keep the torque curve fat but turbo choice will have a lot to do with that. And of course a retune or Power FC should do the trick. After thinking about. Your Commodre weighs the same as a GTR so expect similar responsiveness. Unfortunately 12sec in a GTR does only require 300kW but that is 4WD. You will have to work on the suspension of your Commodore to go anywhere close to matching the GTR's responsiveness. An extra 50kW should cover it. The big advantage of this engine choice as opposed to a V8 is that you won't have so much of a problem getting the power to the ground as the torque curve will be a little more spread out. Whilst the V8 boy's will be slipping you will be well on your way.

There aren't a lot in the local paper and this one is pretty unique due to it's condition. But I am looking around those sites trying to get an idea of prices. Does anyone have any hands on experience with these type of vans?

Don't worry. I own a Commodore too. My opinion is go the RB26DETT straight away especially if you are looking at power upgrades as the internals are good for 450kW+. Your biggest problem will be the weight of the Commodore. What are they weighing in at now? Your turbo choice and camspecs will probably lean towards a wider torque curve rather than top end power. What power are you aiming for? BTW: I'm in Perth too! :headspin:

Opinions required: My mate is about to sell his car and asked me what I thought it was worth. I said I would ask the broader community. Please don't choke. It is a Toyota Hiace, 1999, that has done 140,000. It is a 2.4ltr petrol manual and carries a good Alpine CD Stereo. It has 4 x All Terrain tyres on it with 2 brand new ones on the custom made swing out tyre rack. Dark tint and carpeted rear. Air conditioning and power steering. Now this is the neatest van you will find for the age. My mate Rob is a clean freak and to look at it you would think it was brand new - and that is no exaggeration. For all the skeptics out there, I challenge you to find a better one. He races enduros and used the van to take his KTM race bike out every now and then. It would be best suited to a courier looking for a new car. So what do you think? I am after honest opinions and yes I know it isn't a Skyline. (I'm trying to convince him to buy one after he sells the van.) Thanks guys

When my girlfriend entered my life, she knew cars was my number one passion. She also knew not to try and compete with it. She is actually a bit of a hoon herself. She bought a Silvia for her second car and really like driving my GTR. Whilst I was away overseas she even got the car sideways with my Mum in it to show her how the ATTESA works (on my request.) She enjoys my hobby and even understands why I need to spend $1000 on dump pipes. She's so cool.

Hard to see in the photo but is this a wild block extension? Kind of like the one for the RB26DETT you can get that takes it up to 3ltr? Very hard to make out how big it is though.

That's really cool. Good idea. Mine is working fine tonight.

Does Caltex sell 98 or just premium?