RBW49N

Should have asked if it fits Stagea as well

After EFR, DBW, 30 and DSG. or at the same time

Looks like a perfect fit for the ashtray. Now I really have to get one

Sounds like a great excuse to have a “hoon” “race” button on the CAN keypad

Try doing a brake job in a modern car with a factory ecu

I’ll have to move some other stuff to the I/o box then. Probably auto controls

Thanks Looks like I’ll need an i/o expander. May as well get a can button panel as well. No clutch pedal on mine. So I saved one there

How many extra i/o’s does if use.

@Chi-Towni am pretty sure the sensor is different I took it off my car as it’s not needed with the aftermarket ecu

I have a spare boost sensor if anyone wants to buy it. And the idle motor as well

Is there a reason that you don’t want to go with an aftermarket ECU? As once you buy the series 2 Stagea ecu and wire it and then nistune it the cost is up there. Admittedly aftermarket will be more but not that much in the scheme of things. And you don’t need to change ECUs if the only change is a manual conversion

Do you mean R34 car, gearbox or ecu?

Used it as a logging truck. It was a bit wobbly on turns.

Atessa will work the same as it’s operated by a different ECU. If you want to use one so it can be RWD only I’m not sure that will work and if it is what you want then using a GTST or GTT gearbox would be a cheaper and easier tho v to use. You can just use the AWD gearbox and leave out the shaft that goes from the transfer case to the front diff for full time RWD. Changing the ecu and wiring just so you can use a nistune? There are better options out there that are plug and play to your existing harness connector and they should all work if you are running a manual instead of an auto.

House purchases, renovations, samsonas, dct swaps, garage door mods and I’ve forgotten what turbo this has on it.

The original ecu was completely removed and a Haltech elite 2500 was put in

They did my Stagea with the tiptronic auto and I can say it runs very well and shifts great

The alternator needs to see some sort of load to start charging. This is typically done with the charge light in the dash. You don’t have this light so where does the alt get a load from

It’s in a Stagea. Clearly that’s enough

@oxford1327 I’ve sent you a pm with some info

I had a brief look at the wiring and from what I can see JEM made a Relay/circuit box of some description which is where it gets the info to the ecu I think so I will need to take a more detailed look at it to give you a definitive answer. Sorry

How did you end up? Did you get another piston? Or did you just get a complete new set of forged ones?

I can look into the wiring tomorrow and see where it picks up the signal if you want

I can read it in the Haltech software on my car but it doesn’t work with my factory dash indicator. I’m not really worried about it as I will eventually change to a haltech dash

Yes mine has a shift kit in it. There is not many people that could shift faster with a H pattern gearbox and keep the gearbox from exploding