StockyMcStock

jesus, that's like 2 grand worth of shit right there, that's a big group buy! what's the ETA on arrival of the kits shan?

yeah mate that's me! date is correct and so is the amount, as per the sms i sent ya. cheers!

have you recieved my payment yet shan? i was told by the hot chick at the bank that it would be in there "immediately" so i'm hoping it is!

was the car in question powered by a toyota SC-14 blower and does the owner go by the name of Nizmodore on calaisturbo.com.au by any chance? hope it wasn't his car!

with a forged bottom end with a good quench setup, large boost from a huge turbo with (conversely) lots of lag and a properly balanced crank (can't over-emphasise this point!) you're looking at 700-odd horsepower at the rears wheels at peak power. pretty much only good for a drag car, but nevertheless a very cheap way to build an 800-900 horsepower engine. cubes + boost + good head flow = fantastic power

yep. i agree. also the XR6T job appears to be the goods for RB30's, never seen/heard of one on a 30DET though. would probably be just the right mix of torque curve and response. either way, i think you'll still be limited by traction no matter which turbo you go with.

for an RB25/30 i would never use a GT30 or GT35/40 with a smaller A/R on the turbine than 1.06 people use them on 400+hp RB30's with the 1.06 and have 15psi by 3500rpm. with a head that's flowing 30% more the .82 or anything less is going to be a large restriction in terms of back pressure. go the 1.06 or bigger IMHO. a friend has a 25/30 which (when it was running) used a TO4E with a 1.33 exhaust housing from a rotor. it made 20psi no worries and had huge top-end stonk, but did not feel laggy at all. there is quite simply enough torque off-boost to get you there quick as a flash anyway, unless you're drifting and need the response i'd use a large exhaust A/R on an engine like this.

add me to that list

nice power figure fatz, but more importantly nice torque delivery. flat as a tack all the way to redline, i've never seen something that good from a turbo before. usually they're peaky and horrid, but that is nice.

just curious, was was the power figure at 1.5 bar of boost? hefty i would imagine.....

sexy, but exxy. love it!

from what i have heard, be prepared for the .82 housing to be a bit of a light-switch power hit. from hearing people talk about it, the 1.06 is much better suited for the 30DET, but again i have no personal experience here.

the more voltage that gets to the pump the more it will pump! have seen reports on a VL turbo fuel pump which gave 30% more flow @ same rail pressure when it was given +14V instead of +11 like it usually sees in a VL. the thicker guage wire going to it generally the more voltage it should see, installing a separate relay is probably easier than rewiring the original one.

no problem, it looks a lot better to me as well, for all the reasons you mentioned above. two more questions then: 1) can you do it by eye with a hand drill? 2) how deep do you drill the hole to avoid going into the water gallery?

hmm two contradictory opinions, but it seems like you've done this a number of times. when i get the head next week hopefully i'll give it a go, come to my own conclusion. and just a quickie, i have two options that i know of in terms of cam belt idlers/tensioners etc. do you suggest using the option of drilling a new idler stud hole up the top of the block or using two tensioners down the bottom near the crank pulley? the only advantage i can see of the former is less belt length on the slack side of the belt so perhaps less capability of belt whip/flop. p.s. turbo vs supercharger, each to their own i guess. when it's running i'll let you know how it goes. hopefully the answer to that is "quickly".

ah good to see someone took that flow chart i posted on board at least, yeah 40-50 horsepower to drive it at peak power, and they do generate heat, but then again i've seen some turbo flow charts with similar discharge temps. the gain is in the lack of lag, i'm just keen to try something new that's all. hate driving laggy cars on the street that's all. but i digress, can anyone answer my questions above regarding the block modding or front cam oil seal?

they are in no way similar to a whipple blower at all, the whipple uses two counter-rotating screws which compress the air charge axially as they rotate. this is why it's called a twin-screw lysholm type blower. the toyota blowers have two counter-rotating vanes which take a gulp of air and blow it out the other side. this is characteristic of a roots blower. they are absolutely not the same in any way, shape or form. their only similarity is that they are both superchargers of some description. whipple: i don't have any inside shots of my SC-14 but perhaps you could post some up and understand just how different the two really are. apart from the casings looking vaguely similar, they are completely different. don't try and argue that a roots type blower is the same "style" as a twin screw because that's just stupid. anyway back to the 25/30 thread here, is there any possibility of modifying the block to have another oil supply to the forward VCT gallery and using an RB25 head gasket? perhaps by drilling a hole into the nearest oil supply line and re-routing a portion of the flow to the new hole leading to the VCT gallery?

PS: read 4 posts up and stop making a fool of yourself. telling me to read 93 pages of material and then, yourself, not even reading my posts before advising me on what to do is a little silly, no? yep i understand all of this no problems, just don't know how other people got away with not supplying oil at all to the forward cam seal and gallery there. because i have definately heard/seen pics of RB30DET's with the VCT oil feed welded up, and no external supply at all to the oil seal. any ideas?

ah okay i was under the impression that it could be simply welded up and re-faced, obviously not! so i HAVE to feed oil into that gallery somehow then? i might as well use the VCT then, it will be just as easy. i think i can set up an RPM trigger to feed 12V to the solenoid when it needs it, shouldn't be too hard. or i can just leave it unplugged. so you're 100% sure i have to feed oil up to that gallery? i am sure i have heard of a few people just blocking it off with a grub screw and leaving it, that's all.

oh my god, stop clogging this useful thread up with crap. i was being facetious. here's a few facts: toyota and whipple are two different companies, and their blowers are COMPLETELY different. currently i have an SC-14 on my RB30. i know what they are, and i know that supercharging has been covered because i did it. whipple blowers are produced by lysholm AB industries in sweden. this is what is going onto my 25/30 hybrid engine. they are capable of massive power outputs with huge top-end airflow and no lag. so stop posting useless stuff you obviously have no clue about. "toyota whipple blower" eh? where can i get one?

right, so i am to believe that toyota is in fact the producer of whipple blowers, not lysholm in sweden, and that the SC-14 twin-vane roots blower off the 2L soarers is in fact a whipple twin-screw supercharger? that cleared it up heaps for me thanks!

me too, because toyota don't make whipple blowers.

oh and from people who have actually done it, give me your opinions on whether or not it's worth re-routing the VCT and getting it working. bear in mind that i will be running an aftermarket ECU, stock cams and a blower which will have no lag so off-boost driveability is not a problem at all. (off-boost doesn't exist with this motor)

sorry, yeah i didn't think about that too much before i typed it. my target is 350-400 ponies at the wheels (300kw or so) and i simply don't need any more than that. from all my calcs, i am pretty sure i'll only need about 14-15 psi at the most to achieve this (not from a turbo) so i should be right with stock cams etc. the rods i have are 300,000km old though, i am just not certain if i should get them cryo-treated (for stress relieving) and shotpeened or if i should just leave them. the isky springs are $300-$350 a set i believe.

yeah i see what you're getting at with the cam, either way it doesn't worry me. cams are one of the last things i would change to reach my target power. just wondering now if i should bother getting my rods cryo treated and shotpeened or just leave em........ ah i dunno. the head i am looking is dissassembled completely, has everything there though. been crack tested, pressure tested and cleaned, the valves need re-seating but are fine apart from that. also wondering how much a head specialist would charge to do this..... might throw in some isky springs while i'm there, or can you add a shim to increase the seat pressure?