StockyMcStock

the oil drain for the turbo return on an RB30 block is simply a big hole drilled through the block above the level of the oil in the pan. i don't know what you guys are on about :confused: it's exactly the same as if it went into the sump, above the oil level of course.

sorry mate - thought you were talking SERIOUS power as for the RB30 with 20 crank, i am pretty sure it doesn't work, but don't quote me! just go and grab one from somewhere and see if it physically fits first. personally i would turn it into a 25/30 hybrid - it will make the power you want quite easily. if you absolutely MUST stick with the 2 litre bottom end, don't mess around with it. do as much work as you possibly can to the head (massive porting, larger valves, massive cams etc) and you might make the power easier than you think. for the 2litre, i'd be looking at a GT42 or similar, with lots of NOS to get it on song. water/air cooler with dry ice for the run and a fair whack of pre-turbo N20 and i suspect it will make that power. forged rods and pistons are a must. the crank *might* be okay, all i can offer here is that the RB30 crank is good for up to about 800hp but mostly because of its low rev limit.

that RPM is going to be much harder and MUCH more expensive to achieve because of the valvetrain costs (titanium valves etc are not cheap) than, say, 800rwhp in an RB26/30. keep the standard valves or just get larger ones, forged rods and pistons in the 3 litre and it will get there no worries. run a huge turbo (or 2) because lag isn't a problem and set the rev limit to 7500.

tell me about it - i'm missing all sorts of pieces of loom, bolts, clips, sensors etc i can't wait to find out all the things i didn't get with the head

lol @ comparison with the cosworth formula 1 engines, not really relevant at all Suspense: latest ideas on running in road engines is to use bodgy low-grade non synthetic oil. to bed the rings in load it up in tall gears but don't rev the crap out of it. large run-in times are not required, maybe 50km and it should be ready to go. personally i would change the oil at 50, 250, 500, 1000 then every 5000 with synthetic of your choice. everyone has different ideas on oil change frequency during run-in but after seeing what came out in the first 2 oil changes on the last engine i saw run-in, i would be doing it as described above.

i'm in pretty much the same boat as you - research has led me to the conclusion that you will need either the DE OR DET sensors as they are all the same (water temp, knock sensors, AFM etc) so just grab some from an R33 and you should be right you will need both of the DET knock sensors (not fully necessary but good to have) and they will screw straight into the RB30 block.

is that gate going to clear everything? looks like it's a long way out! mmm GTR head = fun

run it in with standard management on the smallest possible boost level you can (try disconnecting the wastegate so the flap is open all the time for example) for the first 500kms then fit the injectors and PFC, trim the fuel map by the relevant factor so you can drive it to the dyno. make sure you change the oil at 50km, then at 250 and maybe again at 500 just to be safe. castrol GTX (cheapest oil you can get) is pretty good for the first 5000km.

what happened to the R31 you had dave? jeez seems like ages ago when we were talking about this stuff in the porto over a *number* of alcoholic beverages. good to see you got it going, only beat me by 6 months though impressive power for that boost too, nice bolt-ons contribute i think

okay how does $200 flat sound for the two knock sensors, and the whole loom posted to brisbane?

give me a week and i'll buy the whole loom off you, do you have the knock sensors at all?

sweet - still going to get some biggies though so it doesn't matter 270cc should be okay for about 220 horses at the rears which is not really enough. even on 7psi (run-in tune) they'd probably be maxing out so bugger it.

the R33 DE injectors are only 220cc though right? :confused: this is what i was lead to believe

every time the engine performs one revolution, it combusts 3 times. that's good for power.

does the R33 DE wiring loom have the knock sensor provisions in it? i need a loom for my 25/30 using the same head you have just bought but will be running a powerFC and obviously would like the knock sensor provisions to be in there, otherwise i guess i could wire them in manually.....

here's a copy of a post i made on another forum regarding squish/quench on an RB25/30, it's dumbed down a fair bit but only to make it easier to understand. fluid mechanics can be a bitch to get your head around if i use the proper terminology: when the piston gets to top dead centre, and the head surface is 40thou away from the piston edge, the air/fuel mixture which is there encounters a bit of a problem. it's trying to be compressed (locally) very forcefully by huge local pressures and hence wants to get the f*ck out of there. it therefore gets pushed at huge velocity the only way it can go: inwards. this creates a lot of turbulence in the combustion chamber which mixes the fuel/air mixture even more and also causes it to swirl at huge velocity. it has the added effect of forcing the mixture up to the middle of the combustion chamber (at such huge piston velocities the local pressure changes actually stay as changes rather than homogenising for a fraction of a second which is all it needs) where the spark plug is. so when it sparks, you get a very well mixed, turbulent mixture igniting. it reduces local "hotspots" and improves the efficiency (completeness) of the burn. the squish band is illustrated here: the flat edges of the piston which come very very close to hitting the squish areas on the head, shown in the 2nd picture. the universal standard for squish is about 40 thou on a high-revving engine to allow for rod/crank/piston stretch at high RPM. you can go as low as 30thou safely though. so if you think about it, if the flat areas on the edge of the piston are exactly level with the top of the block (as in an RB30) at top dead centre, and the head shown here (RB25) has flat squish areas exactly level with the head face, then the only thing stopping the piston hitting the head on the edges is the head gasket thickness. luckily for us, it's 47 thou which crushes to about 38-45 thou at full torque.

there are quite a number of ways around MAF "restrictions" you know..... things like using twin Q45 AFM's on the intake pipe for example. you can't tell me that twin 3 inch ID intake pipes (and hence pod filters) is going to cause a restriction which can be seriously measured?

the larger bottom end will make the same power more easily, but will hence require more airflow. if everything else stays the same, it will make the same power on less boost, but the old turbine wheels in the huffers still have to spin faster to supply the air if you have a couple of very large external wastegates to keep the WOT back pressure down and you run the turbos right up to their limit in terms of boost, it may make the power you're after, but again i wouldn't count on it lasting too long

where'd you get that filter setup from? good choice of turbo too, well selected.

well i measured the head gasket from nissan with a micrometer and got 47 thou, assuming 5-10 thou crush the squish was just perfect with a deck height of zero. so i told the machinist to face the block, but take as little off as humanly possible. i think he took of 2 thou which is just about right for me

change the angle of it slightly, i bet the noise goes away. tilting it forward/rearward will stop the whistling, you just need to find the sweet spot

turbo way too small? 1 bar of boost should have seen pretty bulk power on a correctly sized turbo. faaaat torque curve, like it! i have a Q45 AFM too - reckon you could let me know what your pinouts were on it, and what colour the wires are? mine go WHITE, BLACK, RED in the direction of airflow. i'm assuming SIGNAL, GROUND, +12V but nobody can give me a straight answer

if it's happening while driving and idling, i'd put money on the problem being your ignition timing or camshaft timing is out, causing pulses back out the intake as sydneykid mentioned

...... cause it's hard to afford a turbo large enough to supply the engine with the air it needs.

does it do this when it's just idling or what? sounds like reversion (large volume of compressed air being pushed back past the compressor wheel upon gear change) but that shouldn't make the car run rich, maybe just for a sec when shifting. only other thing i can think of is that your idle is too high, but either way that's a very strange problem. balance pipe should not make any significant difference if it's on the intake pipes.